» Online Users: 204 |
| 35 members and 169 guests |
|
1987notchback
,
466Navastar
,
998Junkie
,
AC
,
aiuduin
,
blasterheath
,
bren
,
charlietango
,
Clay James
,
cranetruck
,
DEMON
,
Deuce_and_a_Half_Dragon
,
dezert ratt
,
diesel nutz
,
Dieselking22
,
Dudek
,
edpdx
,
exbrown
,
FireFighterHill
,
FLYWHEEL
,
gavan
,
islandguydon
,
kc4wd
,
mattsdfrmb
,
mudballman
,
nowwhat
,
OldDominionIron
,
pcruz
,
peolini
,
rubicon_in_ga
,
skysix
,
Tackettr
,
Ten bits
,
turbosniper1
,
Whit
|
| Most users ever online was 902, 10-29-2011 at 05:09. |
|
 |
06-01-2009, 11:33
|
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Private
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Carlton, MN
Posts: 11
|
M38A1 Overheats!
My A1 overheats (goes past 200 degrees) and boils-over within 10 minutes of idling. I've changed the thermostat - no help. I haven't checked the timing or carb adjustment, but the jeep starts and runs great, so I don't know how it could be a timing or carb issue. Looking in the radiator fill neck, there seems to be a lot of crud in there, so I suspect the radiator is clogged. Does that sound right to you guys? Is there a way to confirm the radiator is clogged before I start taking things apart? The TM states to clean the cooling system per TM 9-2858. What's involved with that? Should I just take the radiator to a shop and have them look at it? The first time the radiator overheated, I wasn't paying attention and the oil pressure dropped to 10 psi. Should I change the oil as a precaution?
Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. I'm at a standstill until I can figure this out. Thanks!
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 17:26
|
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Sergeant Major
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 134
|
The first thing you should do is flush your radiator!
It's easy and it's cheap. There's a joke in there somewhere...
__________________
1952 M38A1C - 106mm Recoilless Rifle Jeep
1953 M38A1 - 1/4 Ton U.S. Army Jeep
1952 M100 - 1/4 Ton U.S. Army Trailer
1967 M52A2 - 5 Ton Tractor Truck
1966 M172A1 - 25 Ton Lowboy Trailer
1984 XM971E1 - 10 Ton E Data Center Van Semi Trailer
1983 M1061A1 - 5 Ton Trailer
1989 M116A2 - 3/4 Ton Trailer
19XX M353 - 3.5 Ton Trailer - NEED PARTS!
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 17:28
|
#3 (permalink)
|
|
3 Star General
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: MI USA
Posts: 861
|
Well my M38A1 runs 160-180. If it was mine I would drain coolant, check t'stat for correct install, disconnect the radiator hoses and reverse flush the radiator to see what crud comes out. If it is cruddy, then take it to a shop to have cleaned or recored. Prior to installing clean rad, flush the engine (drain the block and flush with water), and if real cruddy, I would consider replacing the water pump for peace of mind. This is all cheap compare to a rebuilt engine. Good luck from a former Minnie-sotan from the da cities area!
__________________
Too many vehicles to list and lots of parts!
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 17:43
|
#4 (permalink)
|
|
Potentate
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,036
|
There could be one more sinister cause - a cracked block. This happened to my dad and me. Check for exhaust bubbles visible in the radiator with the engine running. Our block was cracked by the front-right head-stud. A freind of our with a machine shop welded up the crack for us. The M38A1 runs great now.
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 21:27
|
#5 (permalink)
|
|
4 Star General
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lebanon, TN
Posts: 1,596
|
The next suspect is a bad water pump. With the thermostat out and the engine running, you should be able to see the coolant circulating. That is if the neck is on top of the radiator and you can look down in the radiator.
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 21:54
|
#6 (permalink)
|
|
Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Monrovia, Ca.
Posts: 5,674
|
When it is hot, feel the lower radiator hose near the radiator. If it is cool enough to put your hand on it and leave it there, it is most likely a plugged radiator. When water pumps fail, you get fluid out the weep hole most of the time or a fan that wobbles around.
__________________
I'm developing a taste for tracked things 
1968 Kaiser/Jeep M35A2 W/W
1968 Johnson Furnace M105A2
Tents, Camo netting, Lotsa other junk.
Why can't I walk to the back of my garage 
Bullets make me happy 
MVPA # 30114
ASMH Volunteer 
Secretary SCMVCC
STAY AWAY FROM MINES...holes in the dirt.
|
|
|
06-01-2009, 22:11
|
#7 (permalink)
|
|
4 Star General
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Henderson. NC
Posts: 1,180
|
Best way I have found to clean a STEEL radiator is muratic acid. It will remove lots of crud quick just never use it on Aluminum or plastic. I use 100% flush for 5-10 min then drain, flush with water, flush again with water. Then put in new coolant. Aways wear cloves and eye protection. Muratic acid is sold at pool supply houses and Hardware stores.
__________________
M109(Metal of Honor) and M1009 m35a2 (Metal of Valor) m35a3
The name Stampy was given to my first CJ5 by a friend after I got "stuck " in a thicket of small trees on my property . I wasn't stuck for long and the trees did not survive the ordeal.
Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.
|
|
|
06-08-2009, 11:33
|
#8 (permalink)
|
|
Private
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Carlton, MN
Posts: 11
|
All,
I had the radiator overhauled. It was filled with gunk and had a small leak. The radiator came out great. I installed it this past weekend and now the jeep runs at 160-180 degrees. I also back-flushed the engine block before reinstalling the radiator.
Thanks for all the great advice!
|
|
|
 |
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|