For those getting 109a3's I do not know if this is of interest.
I have the inside measurements of the flooring and also measurements of the crossmembers build of the box.
I added some pics of what I used to remove the tongue and groove flooring - plus the removal of the steel plate pans that were severely rusted out underneath.
Between some area's of the flooring and steel pans - there was a heavy layer of FELT - like roofers felt.
Not knowing what has been stored - worked on - spilt in inside these van bodies I highly recommend wearing breathing masks. I deal with Haz mat inside trailers and you may add water to something - steam - heat and the next thing you know someone may be pulling you out if you are that lucky.
I added pic of tools I used to remove the flooring. Eye protection and hand protection highly recommended.
"When the people look like ants-PULL,
When the ants look like people-PRAY."
Zout,
I would love to get those interior measurements. I am getting ready to rip out the flooring as the box is just about done. With all the work that went into the box I do not want to leave the floor looking like it does now.
Walter
'71 M109A3
'71 M35A2
M353
M103
M105 X2
M116A3
Out of spending money, out of parking space, and I am on GL looking. "Hi, my name is Walter and I am an addict."
Since we're on the subject of the M109A3 Boxes, has anybody ever done any work on the side windows of these things? Mine appears to have some sort of wood surround around the double glass panes, and it's somewhat rotted out. Anybody replaced the wood on these? Also how do these windows come off the side of the Box? If I'm to guess you would have to take the little wire off the end of the push handle, and then go outside and lift the window WAY up then slide forward or back to remove it from the side...
Seems logical.
Any suggestions from an Old Salt? I'm just a "Greenie".
I hid it under the Tree in front of the House...
Think she'll notice with the Camo?
Washington County Sheriff recently told me during his "Visit" that it was:
"Legally Parked, and whomever complained was an IDIOT. We get a lot of those nowadays."
Since we're on the subject of the M109A3 Boxes, has anybody ever done any work on the side windows of these things? Mine appears to have some sort of wood surround around the double glass panes, and it's somewhat rotted out. Anybody replaced the wood on these? Also how do these windows come off the side of the Box? If I'm to guess you would have to take the little wire off the end of the push handle, and then go outside and lift the window WAY up then slide forward or back to remove it from the side...
Seems logical.
Any suggestions from an Old Salt? I'm just a "Greenie".
swing the window out and slide it foward or backwards which ever is easier. I have not replaced the wood but I have had it off, it would be very easy to cut a piece of oak and redo it.
sorry no pics I had to pull one of my windows to clean the inside of the double pain...what a pita it was.
starting left front corner back along the left wall"
it is 41 1/2 inches to the wheel well lip.
going still on the left wall to the rear:
the wheel well is 71 inches long
from the end of the wheel well to the rear angle iron is 31 1/2 inches
the width at the front and rear is 90 inches
between the wheel wells is 39 inches
the wheel wells are 25 1/2 inches in width.
I will post the cross member layout tomorrow night as I have just removed the steel rusted out pan that laid underneath all of this. On my particular unit there were carriage bolts that mounted the tongue and groove flooring - some of the bolts had been in there for years and pulled down - but this is why I only used the 4 inch grinder and wheels - easiest way - just grind off the heads below the squaare hex end of the bolt and use the punch to knock em out - the steel floor pan was in the same process - once flooring was removed - finish grinding off the bolts and knock em through to the ground - clean flush - even mounting of material to the crossmembers.
I will most likely use felt below the 19 layer plywood shown - but I will also use undercoating from underneath to seal everything once installed. Also using "silopreme" to caulk the edges and seams, this comes in gray and white.
I could do several processes here - but this will be the most likely for costs and since using the 19 layer plywood - I will be dead and buried before it rots out - but what the hey - leave something for the next person to do.
But the "chemtrails that contail HAARP" may get us all first! type that into google and see what you are faced with. As a former HaLo - no one ever looks UP.
Enough of that - I will post if you wish the crossmember configuration - but it also starts from the front on a 12 inch center to center.
What a great way to spend 4th of July weekend - having fun retrofitting my Mil truck.
"When the people look like ants-PULL,
When the ants look like people-PRAY."
swing the window out and slide it foward or backwards which ever is easier. I have not replaced the wood but I have had it off, it would be very easy to cut a piece of oak and redo it.
sorry no pics I had to pull one of my windows to clean the inside of the double pain...what a pita it was.
Vinny
So being a Double Pane, it's a Double Pain ITA...
Thanks Vinny
I hid it under the Tree in front of the House...
Think she'll notice with the Camo?
Washington County Sheriff recently told me during his "Visit" that it was:
"Legally Parked, and whomever complained was an IDIOT. We get a lot of those nowadays."
Got all the metal floor pan out and clean edges cut . The lower part of the box at the floor is deterioated and this can be cured.
Starting from the front left corner - the cross members run 12 inch on center going back. There are also other additional support crossmembers in there so mark these off on the side walls and the wheel wells before you start to install any flooring.
Got side tracted as the 4 grandsons decided to help ole grandpa - did get the front and back flooring in and I will send pics later.
This was also a great time to get access to the top of the air tanks - everything else to check them.
get back with ya later
"When the people look like ants-PULL,
When the ants look like people-PRAY."
Got up this morning and made sure I had all my fingers still in tact after last night - good to go after applying a little burn cream to area's -safety is only for working on the truck anyhow.
Flooring in - screwed down - caulked with the silopreme "white" as this will flow into the seams great and harden - then apply whatever it takes to top it off.
Used the 1/2 in impact with a 1/4 in tip drive for the torx headed floor screws - you have to pre-drill 1/4 in holes for these and they will self tap themselves and pull the flooring down tight. These were terrific for the edges of the box - where I mentioned it had deterioated - pulled the angle iron up tight - did lay beads of silopreme on top of all the crossmembers and edges before installing this heavy 19 layer - you can see it is almost even with the wheel wells. The reason it is not even in a couple area - the wheel wells were bent - these have an 1" lip on them and I will use seperate screws to pull these up to the flooring - also countersunk.
Here are the pics
"When the people look like ants-PULL,
When the ants look like people-PRAY."
just FYI
