CUCV antenna mount and guard measurements?

I've been trying to find these for my M1008 with no luck. Anybody have the measurements for them. Maybe I could get them made.

I've been thinking the same thing. Let's see where this goes.

You can find the mounts and brush guards on e-bay from time to time. I believe someone is selling a brush guard/mount kit (NOS) for around $85.00. A few mounths ago I bought a new brush guard for $15. and a new mount for $40.

here are the mounting instructions, you may be able to get some mesurements off of these drawings.

Walker Truck parts in Hesperia, or Militarysurplusparts on the bay.Same person.He had NOS kits, I bought one 3 weeks ago for 85$ brand new in the box surplus,mount,brush guard ,and hardware. They are getting hard to find new in the box.

Just got NOS on E-place for cheap. Deals are out there if you're patient.

If you're impatient, here are pictures conveniently placed with a fabric ruler for your drawing pleasure (note that on all measurements I started at the 10" mark, to make the ruler easier to hold):

NOS, right out of the plastic bag and original box...



lower leg and tab is 6-1/2" wide from the antenna plate to the tab bottom



lower tab is 13/16" from the bottom edge to the bend (no idea what the angle is)



18-1/2" total length tab-tip to tab-tip



Lower leg length is 9-1/8" from the upper bend to lower bend



Upper antenna plate is 6-1/8" from upper tab bend to lower leg bend



antenna connector access hole is 3" down from the antenna base-plate bend - hole is 3" in diameter and centered in the 6-1/2" wide leg



Note that there is 1" of the 6-1/2" in leg width on the antenna plate face, then it tapers out to the final width of the upper tab outer edges



Upper tab outer edges are 8-1/2" apart



mounting holes are 5/16" diameter, and 3/8" from the outer and lower edge of all tabs (to the edge of the hole)

More...

Upper tabs are 1-11/16" wide



The upper tab radius is approximately 1/4"
The NATO antenna mount hole is 7/8" from the cutout for the upper tabs (notch starts where the radius begins)



The large hole is 3-5/8" diameter



The smaller mounting holes (4x, evenly distributed around the main hole) are 4-1/2" on center, and...



7/16" in diameter




Hope this helps... Best of luck.

-Tim

Got the other part of the bracket yesterday - the brush guard.

Here is is:


There are two hole in the brush guard that line up with the top two holes on the antenna mount (between the top antenna mount tabs and the body of the truck).

The guard is three pieces of sheet metal that are welded together. The outer guard is a piece 35" x 5" (remember I'm starting at 10" on the ruler to make it easier to hold):



The two "tab" faces that go against the body of the truck are approximately 5" to the center of the bend (from eye-balling it, I'm guessing a 3/8" radius):



The two shorter edges that are next to the tabs are 8" approximately to the center of the radius's:



The outer face (parallel to the truck fender and tabs) is approximately 7":



There are two support pieces that I believe keep the guard for getting crushed by more significant brush. These have two bends in them each, are 5" tall like the main guard piece, and are welded along the 5" edge on both ends to the guard.

The tab length is approximately 3":



The middles length is 1-7/8":



And the short length is approximately 9/16" (yeah I did a crap job lining up the 1" mark... ):


More:

Finally the mounting holes...

Note that there is a larger hole in the actual 35" outer guard piece, then a smaller hole in the support pieces.

The larger hole is 1" diameter:



And note that the hole is NOT centered in the bracket's 5" height, rather it is 1-1/8" from the large hole edge to the top of the bracket, and 7/8" to the edge of the hole from the inner end of the tab:



The holes in the support piece are concentric (center on center), and hole diameter is 11/32":



When you mount the guard and bracket, you will also want some sort of support piece behind the bracket. The diagram the other member uploaded above shows two pieces of pipe-stock welded to a flat bracket - you drill the inner bed-box with the outer diameter of the pipe-stock (plus a 32-nd or 16-th). This way, when you put the clamping pressure from the antenna mount bolt onto the pipe, it will pinch the pipe to the outer fender, and use the large inner flat piece as additional torsional support, meaning if you grab the antenna base and pull it away from the truck, it will put even pressure on both the outer fender and the bed-box sheet metal. Also it you were to smack the antenna base into something, the inner bed box re-enforcement plate would keep the bottom mount bolts from tearing out.


Here is what they look like when mated (of course not on a truck):



Beyond that, I have a difference of opinion from how GM and the military did the cable pass-through. I don't like rubber gromets, they still wear out and let the hole cut the insulation of the wire and water pass inside (do we really need more opportunity for water to get inside and rust these trucks?). I prefer a short 4" jumper from the antenna base to the fender, and then an insulated bulkhead pass-through (like the below from Pasternack) with and O-ring and some RTV silicone adhesive.



Either way, ground-strap the heck out of your truck if you plan on doing any CB-ing or HAM-ing. Spot welds on older trucks aren't the best power grounds, but they are generally terrible RF grounds.

Best of luck,

-Tim

Thought I should also mention that the antenna mount itself is 3/32" steel, and the brush guard is 1/8" aluminum. My wife thought that might be important

Better scan of information in #4 available in this thread.