1994 M998A1, Rebuild in Indiana

Yesterday, I nailed the winning bid on my first MV, a 1994, 2-dr, M998A1 with a 6.5L NA engine. It's missing a transmission, transfer case (a new AMG 242 was hiding in the back!), rear drive shaft (hiding in back!), light switch, and the doors​ (hiding in back!). Most everything else looks pretty nice and in-tact, and it didn't have a lot of its equipment stripped off like others did. Another member pointed out that it has the newer style of brush guard mounts and the newer style of wheels already installed, so those are a plus!

Since I already don't have a transmission, it makes sense for me to just go ahead and install the nicer 4L80E transmission so that I have overdrive right off the bat. I've been poking through a lot of the write-ups on how to do this and most look like they're written for someone with a 6.2 converting from a 3L80 to a 4L80E, which usually involves sourcing a 6.5L wiring harness and certain sensors. Based on the photos I see of the shifter, it looks like it had the 3L80 originally installed. Has anyone done a write-up of the 6.5L 3L80 -> 4L80E conversion so I can review over that? Hopefully in the 2-6 months I'll be waiting for this, I can get a transmission picked up and completely built up, then start gathering all of the parts and tools I know I'll need/want.

Otherwise, enjoy some pictures of what I just bought. I plan for it to be a multi-utility truck for me. It's going to carry motorcycles, be a quick-setup camping rig, a cargo hauler, a snow plow, a radio rig, and a search & rescue truck-just not all at once. I think most days, it's going to be rigged up with radios, SAR gear, and be ready for general hauling. I think I bought the right truck for the job!


EDIT 5 Jan 2017: I thought it'd be neat to keep the current vehicle status right here.

Things done: Installed S3, Installed new master light switch, installed junk doors, completed grill guard install, charged and tested batteries, installed marker light, removed broken exhaust, diagnosed fan/shroud issue, replaced most missing fasteners for troop bench, installed wash fluid pump, changed air and oil filter, installed starter, installed heated Truck Lite heated LED headlights, and scoured truck for all hidden goodies.

Things to do:

Engine is non-running. Need to install 200 Amp Alternator, replace accessory belts, install fan clutch quick disconnect, bleed PS system, test glow plugs (4/8 good!), change all fluids (1st Oil change complete), replace fuel filter, install S3's TSU, install battery to battery cable, and then ask for prayers when I see the WAIT light.

Exhaust and mounts are all included and appear in good shape, except crossover looks like it has some small holes that can be band-aided for very short-term use. Just need to locate all the bolts and test-fit it.

Purchased 4L80E, adapter, and offset crossmember. Have AMG 242, correct length prop shafts, 4 spd shifter, TCM, relay, Trans Light, and a few of the sensors and brackets... Still need engine speed sensor, fan kickdown switch, throttle position sensor, circuit breaker, T/C Lock Light, and wiring components.

Haven't inspected suspension. Diffs & Hubs need inspected. All lights operational. R door needs ANOTHER handle. Doors need windows restiched. Driver seat stuck. Seat belts are slack-likely need replaced/svc. Wiper wash fluid tube needs replaced. Some vent line isn't connected all the way to air intake (need to investigate). Accelerator pedal feels very loose. Need to pin all shackles in place so I don't lose them like a fool.

More to follow...

Nice truck Wire Fox. It does look pretty complete and unmolested. It sounds like you have big plans for it. Keep the photos rolling in once you get it home and start working on it.

I looked at pics on IP. Did they remove the EESS?

3000gt said:

I looked at pics on IP. Did they remove the EESS?

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It looks like it. I woke up and couldn't quite get back to bed, so I starting poking around and realized that the EESS is most likely not there. Looks like there will be an S3 in my future-I just wish these weren't $500+. Does anyone know what the disconnected cable is next to the wash fluid bottle is? I saw a lot of HMMWVs listed with that loose cable and several bolts and washers just laying there. I haven't read far enough into the TMs yet to figure out what's missing.

4 bolts hold in the control box under the dash. The big connector with wire is from the engine harness and connects to the top of the control box.

Nice truck though. Good time to consider putting a turbo setup in with 4 speed. With the tunnel empty, it is a lot nicer to convert. Body harnesses are pricey but worth it (to me).

Finally! I was approved for pickup yesterday, inspected it this morning, and the tow truck driver relocated it across town to my driveway for me a couple hours later. I've found that there's a few more issues with the engine than expected, but I'm going to start trying to sort it out this weekend when I have more than 1 hour of daylight to work with.


Found a whole lot of surprises with my truck that was not expected. Let me list off some of the stuff that was in the back that wasn't listed in the description or pictured: driver's door, passenger's door, new (it's wrapped in plastic and clean) AMG 242 T/C, Luverne brush guard w/mesh in all openings except headlights, front & rear propeller shafts (and looks like all brackets; all probably for 3L80/NP218 combo), an unknown tubular bar (looks like a tow bar, but it's too thin and short to be one), doghouse cover, three partial antennas (3 tops, 1 bottom section, no bases), a crap ton of loose bolts, a bunch more old bolts grouped in bags, a new [but ruined due to weather exposure] air filter, a road hazard triangle kit, a nearly new exhaust (all pieces to complete it), and two MREs worth of trash.

I also found this neat letter stuck in one of the footwell areas that I could use a bit of help deciphering:

ATTN: C2
This vehicle is NMC for Transfer case inop. A work order will be created, after we do our UTRANS with FMS 10 on 15 June 2015, Thanks
POC:
CW2 ****, Battalion Motor Officer H-CO 113th/C2, Cell: ****
SFC ****, Maint Management NCO H-CO 113th/FMS 10, Cell: ****
CW3 **** FMS shop Chief, Blackberry *****

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I clearly gather that they had the transfer case go dead, but I'm more curious about what the "UTRANS with FMS 10" might be. Any idea?

Congratulations! Nice to see another Hoosier having fun.
With all those parts missing, especially the transfer case problem too, it sounds like a whole new powertrain from a surplus dealer is in your future. Then you can just build around it.
Bulldogger

Wire Fox said:

I also found this neat letter stuck in one of the footwell areas that I could use a bit of help deciphering:

I clearly gather that they had the transfer case go dead, but I'm more curious about what the "UTRANS with FMS 10" might be. Any idea?

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Someone with a better Army vocabulary will be more helpful, but I'll take a stab...

I think the letter is being addressed to "Command & Control" staff (C2), possibly in the event that a ranking officer saw the truck in a state of disrepair and started asking questions... Nonetheless, the truck was "not mission capable" due to the transfer case, as you noted. They were going to submit a work order to have the truck repaired after completing what I think is some kind of LTE/broadband networking voodoo with Field Maintenance Shop #10 (FMS 10, located in Fort Wayne) on the aforementioned date. I think UTRAN involves the wireless networking of handheld or vehicle-based devices, but the details are above my blue-collar pay grade. I'd wager that the first name on that point of contact list (the Battalion Motor Officer) is probably the person who issued the letter, and tagged the other two folks as insurance.

Looks like your truck was with the 113th Brigade Support Battalion, under the 76th Infantry Brigade Combat Team of the Indiana Army National Guard, before it was turned in... Neat find!

Thanks for the translation. A lot of that lines up with what I was starting to find. What kind of confidence do you have about UTRANS being anything to do with wireless networking? I saw a lot of google hits for "UTRANs" being something with wireless networking companies, but no references to anything military. I can say that this truck has a surprising amount of antenna cables and its SINCGARS power cable still in-tact. The antenna cables have the end connectors clipped off, but I've got a bit of hope that there might be enough slack to salvage one or two of them...

As for my engine, one things that's a bit of a mystery to me is the cooling fan. The blades are very firmly planted into the top of the shroud with enough force that I can't turn it by hand, and there's no drag marks that I'd expect to see if say...the engine were running and the truck hit something to flex parts and cause the blades to come to a halt. With that in mind, I'm thinking that while it was being worked on, something got shifted. I'm going to start by seeing if adjusting the radiator in its brackets will help free that. If that's no good, what are some other things I should look at as likely culprits? They definitely were working in the area due to seeing that the 60 A generator bracket was partially disconnected and the gen itself didn't have its mounting bolts on it at all-literally just resting on the bracket.

EDIT: For the UTRANS word, I've found one document online that seems to match the context here. This inspection log had one day's entry as follows:

Tuesday, October 16, 2007 Page 39 of 54

S/275/095 Update Checkbook information and submit changes to IMAP-Upper Level Module (IMAP-U)
S/275/100 Import Work Order Information.
S/275/105 Import AMSS data.
S/275/110 Submit AMSS data to Higher Units and LOGSA.
S/275/115 Create and submit DA Form 2409-9 Equipment Transfer.
S/275/120 Perform UTRANS.
S/275/125 Program is not actively running in RCAS computer.
S/275/130 FEDLOG connection is not established.
S/275/135 System parameter password (123456) has not been changed to a personal password.

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Basing it on what else I'm seeing here, it's almost like it might mean "Unit Transaction," "Unit Transfer," or something vaguely similar. But it could still be completely unrelated and might be diagnostic program...Still clueless.

Wire Fox said:

As for my engine, one things that's a bit of a mystery to me is the cooling fan. The blades are very firmly planted into the top of the shroud with enough force that I can't turn it by hand, and there's no drag marks that I'd expect to see if say

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You said theres no trans right? The engine is probably leaning backwards slightly, causing the fan to dig into the shroud.

Really cool rig btw! Half the fun of buying new things is discovering the little bits of information on it, and bonus parts are always sweet!

Awol said:

You said theres no trans right? The engine is probably leaning backwards slightly, causing the fan to dig into the shroud.

Really cool rig btw! Half the fun of buying new things is discovering the little bits of information on it, and bonus parts are always sweet!

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That right there is top-notch info new guys like me need. That absolutely makes sense. I'll try putting a jack on a good point under the rear of the engine and putting just a little bit of pressure on it to see if it tips happily into place. Shouldn't take but ten minutes.

Wire Fox said:

What kind of confidence do you have about UTRANS being anything to do with wireless networking? I saw a lot of google hits for "UTRANs" being something with wireless networking companies, but no references to anything military.

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Wire Fox said:

EDIT: For the UTRANS word, I've found one document online that seems to match the context here. This inspection log had one day's entry as follows:

Basing it on what else I'm seeing here, it's almost like it might mean "Unit Transaction," "Unit Transfer," or something vaguely similar. But it could still be completely unrelated and might be diagnostic program...Still clueless.

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I also found that document in my searching, but apparently didn't read it closely enough... So, nope, I now have zero confidence in my late-night guesswork regarding "UTRAN".

Alright, more work done. Pulled off the old exhaust completely and dragged it inside so that I can remove the broken muffler flange and replace it with the new muffler that conveniently came with the truck from the comfort of my basement. Pushed the truck back into its nest for the next couple months until it's ready to roll under its own strength. I also identified the antennas that were in the back as being AN 3900 antennas for SINCGARS radios. I have one "center element" section (lower half of the whip) and three "top elements" (upper half) back there. I'll decide later if I'll sell off the extra two or just buy in replacement center elements to make this a porcupine for the radios I'll be adding in (mix of civilian & military).
I've got a couple of mystery parts that I still can't identify that were loose in the truck. The first was up in the passenger floor board. My first thought was some strange antenna base (nearly right size thread); however, there's no pass-though for any kind of wires, so it's purely some kind of mount that adapts three bolt holes to one large pipe-style connector.


Next up is this two-position telescoping pole that was in the back. It really reminds me of a tow bar, but it seems far too light and thin to make good use as one. Only one end still has its retaining pins and cables. The side that is missing them looks like it has an identical arrangement to the side that does. It's about 8 feet long.

The 6.5NA in your truck is a direct drop in replacement for the 6.2L engine. Doing the trans swap is identical, except you will be a step ahead in that the engine speed sensor bung should already be on the engine, which saves a lot of work trying to put the 6.5L housing on the 6.2L engine.

Augi

Found my Grill Guard parts. I'll copy & paste my writeup here:

One of their engineers got back to me. I was wrong about needing bolts, nuts, and washers... It uses four straight retaining pins, 0.5 x 3.00". For the sake of not losing them, get a small cable to attach them together. These parts are no longer sold by Luverne, so you'll have to source them from a general parts house. The vibration dampeners ARE still sold by Luverne Truck. You can call their CS number and tell them you need part number 205793, which superseded the old number of 100946. They are $8.50 each (called a rubber bumper in their system) and you need four for a complete install. According to the installation sheet, only the bottom two are absolutely necessary, since it say the top two can be left out for easier access to fold down the guard. I've attached the parts guide (it specs out the nuts, bolts, and washers for the brackets as well as what I was looking for) to hear, and so it has some more permancy. All in all, I'd say $34 + some petty cash for the pins is a great deal for getting this installed back correctly. I don't really know how to add these to the TM section, but I feel that these PDFs belong there since I haven't found any information in the TMs about this guard.

EDIT: It all came in yesterday and installed beautifully. Luverne ultimately charged a boatload for shipping, so it was $52, plus I hit up the fleabay and found a five pack of the 0.5 x 3.00" pins for $10 delivered. As a note for anyone else buying those pins: make sure it specifies a 3.00" USABLE length, as I saw several companies advertise their pins based on the overall length instead of usable length. The OAL of a pin with a usable of 3.00 would be about 3.50". I'll post some pictures of the install later in case anyone wants to see it.

Grabbed a new Niehoff N1228-2 (EDIT: Look at note below. Don't buy this model) 200 Amp Alt yesterday out of Columbus, OH. Turns out my 60 Amp alternator wasn't connected for a good reason. If anybody wants a good condition bracket for the 60A, any of the brand new mounting hardware (only opened the box and put it back in), or parts off of the alternator itself, feel free to PM me-I'll let any of it go for pretty cheap + shipping.

Also got into taking the cargo cover off, as it seemed like it was just sitting lower than what it should be. With it off, it's pretty obvious now where brackets have broken and things are just sitting lower than they should. I'll be replacing those and trying to raise it up just a touch to make things a bit more taut.

EDIT: Don't buy a N1228 alternator for your HMMWV! It's the wrong item and WILL NOT WORK. I thought I updated this everywhere I had written it originally, but missed this one. The shaft size of the N1228 is smaller than the N1225 that you actually need, therefore the pulley won't fit correctly. It would take custom work to get this to work correctly.

Wire Fox said:

Found my Grill Guard parts. I'll copy & paste my writeup here:

One of their engineers got back to me. I was wrong about needing bolts, nuts, and washers... It uses four straight retaining pins, 0.5 x 3.00". For the sake of not losing them, get a small cable to attach them together. These parts are no longer sold by Luverne, so you'll have to source them from a general parts house. The vibration dampeners ARE still sold by Luverne Truck. You can call their CS number and tell them you need part number 205793, which superseded the old number of 100946. They are $8.50 each (called a rubber bumper in their system) and you need four for a complete install. According to the installation sheet, only the bottom two are absolutely necessary, since it say the top two can be left out for easier access to fold down the guard. I've attached the parts guide (it specs out the nuts, bolts, and washers for the brackets as well as what I was looking for) to hear, and so it has some more permancy. All in all, I'd say $34 + some petty cash for the pins is a great deal for getting this installed back correctly. I don't really know how to add these to the TM section, but I feel that these PDFs belong there since I haven't found any information in the TMs about this guard.

EDIT: It all came in yesterday and installed beautifully. Luverne ultimately charged a boatload for shipping, so it was $52, plus I hit up the fleabay and found a five pack of the 0.5 x 3.00" pins for $10 delivered. As a note for anyone else buying those pins: make sure it specifies a 3.00" USABLE length, as I saw several companies advertise their pins based on the overall length instead of usable length. The OAL of a pin with a usable of 3.00 would be about 3.50". I'll post some pictures of the install later in case anyone wants to see it.

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Ive seen alot of trucks with these guards, and they all had bolts on the bottom and pins in top holes.
That way guard can't be removed easily buy someone else.

Wire Fox said:

Next up is this two-position telescoping pole that was in the back. It really reminds me of a tow bar, but it seems far too light and thin to make good use as one. Only one end still has its retaining pins and cables. The side that is missing them looks like it has an identical arrangement to the side that does. It's about 8 feet long.

View attachment 660911View attachment 660912View attachment 660913View attachment 660914View attachment 660915

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Finally found out what this is! If you check out 11-215 of the -20 TM you'll see that it's a sling-load spreader bar for an M997 Ambulance! NSN: 4910-01-313-8839 P/N: 12342102 Chapter 2-1 of TM 4-48.11 tells you all about how to rig it up and make use of it. Looks like there's a few other body styles that make use of the bar per this TM. I'm now wondering if they ever made use of this spreader bar in order to not remove the cargo cover for sling load operation, or if this was just a random tagalong from another HMMWV. Either way I feel like this is just one of those random, very cool to have items. No idea if it's rare or not. I can say any combination of "spreader bar" on eBay turns up very interesting results that I can't recommend looking for while at work, unless you happen to work at an adult novelty shop.

Thought it was time for some more pictures, because we all like pictures.



Shiny new TruckLite LED headlights (heated), the grill guard and shackles being back where they belong and a shot of the back of the HMMWV and its bajillion drilled holes for antennas everywhere. Anyone know if they all have the sponsor pre-drilled for the aux. fuel tank filler tube, or if mine's more of an abnormality?

I'll try and shoot some engine photos once the CORRECT alternator arrives and I can finish up that job.

As 86humv said, your grill guard is not mounted correctly. I could take that off and be gone in 30 seconds. Bottom should be bolted and with castle nuts w/cotter pins. Also helps with the rubber cushions keeping it from rattling around.