Battery Cable/Crimp Connector Size

3/8 ring and should be an 0/0 cable. They make non crimp connectors, or, I have a strike type crimper you can use. Call me if you want it.

I don't crimp any more I solder and then use 3 layer (not three layers) heat tubing that has a heat activated potting compound inside that make the connection complely waterproof. I also use 00 welding cable. I use pre tinned terminals with solder in pre measured slugs that give just the right amount of solder and it doesn't require you to hold the terminal at soldering temp for more than a few seconds.

Terminals:

Heavy-duty Copper Lugs

Solder slugs:

Terminal Solder Slugs

Heat shrink tubing:

Shrink Tube - Triple Wall

This costs more money but you will NEVER have to replace them or have troubles with them.

Stalwart said:

I don't crimp any more I solder and then use 3 layer (not three layers) heat tubing that has a heat activated potting compound inside that make the connection complely waterproof. I also use 00 welding cable. I use pre tinned terminals with solder in pre measured slugs that give just the right amount of solder and it doesn't require you to hold the terminal at soldering temp for more than a few seconds.

Terminals:

Heavy-duty Copper Lugs

Solder slugs:

Terminal Solder Slugs

Heat shrink tubing:

Shrink Tube - Triple Wall

This costs more money but you will NEVER have to replace them or have troubles with them.

Click to expand...

I agree with all that. Granted I've always done it without the heatshrink, but that is a good extra layer of protection. Soldering the terminals is the way to go.

Edit: didn't notice you linked to Delcity. I purchase all my wire and terminals from them, and sometimes Waytek if they don't have what i need. Good people.

If you go that route see the video at:

http://www.delcity.net/documents/movies/battery_terminals.mpg

Soldering is probably the best approach for most of us, since the proper crimping tools would be cost prohibitive.
Soldering has a couple of problems, quality control and vibration failure at the joint where the solder ends, ever noticed how stiff that part of the connection is?
The original mil spec battery cables are crimped.

I recently replaced some lug on my XM818.

I have a criping tool I bought awhile back for about 20 bucks (strike type).

I bought some 2gauge terminals. I found on the cables connecting the 2 batt's together the terminals were a little too big, but crimped well worked fine. For the main cables they were a little small, but I made them fit.

I just replaced an end on a cable from the starter ground to the frame. The frame side was vibration broke. I cut as close to the lug, and cleaned up the cable that I had left slipped a lug I got from Advance Auto and acid-core solder and a propane torch and heated and soldered it all togather again. I believe it is better than a crimp especially on batery cables, due to corrosion that is always forming. The lugs (2) were something like $4.99 and the solder, I dont remember, but I'd use acid-core, but a small roll was cheap, less than five bucks.

I tend to go overkill on battery cables.

On my 5 ton tractor I run 4/0 cables with the AN ends and on my CUCV's I run 2/0 cables also with the AN cable lugs.

Tim the ToolMan Taylor would have used 500mcm cables! After all bigger is better! IT'S ONLY $10 PER FOOT.

cranetruck said:

Soldering is probably the best approach for most of us, since the proper crimping tools would be cost prohibitive.
Soldering has a couple of problems, quality control and vibration failure at the joint where the solder ends, ever noticed how stiff that part of the connection is?
The original mil spec battery cables are crimped.

Click to expand...

I agree if you use solder fed in by hand, the solder travels up the wire but using the plugs there is just enough solder to make a good connection. You are not heating the wire directly so the solder won't travel unless you overheat the connection. I use welding cable as it has the most flexibility.

I also now use soldered butt connectors with integral heat shrink tubing. You crimp as usual and as you shrink the tubing with a heat gun, a small amount of low temperature solder is released into the connection and there is potting compound inside the tubing making a waterproof connection. I have dissected a number of these and I'm impressed with the connection.

Not that I love resurrecting dead threads... well actually I do. But that's the beauty of this forum and these vehicles - the information is timeless. Wanted to say... this was awesome. And Easy. Just finished building a new new toolbox/battery box and wanted to run cables for the Warn winch. The solder connection is definitely the way to go...

Stalwart said:

I don't crimp any more I solder and then use 3 layer (not three layers) heat tubing that has a heat activated potting compound inside that make the connection complely waterproof. I also use 00 welding cable. I use pre tinned terminals with solder in pre measured slugs that give just the right amount of solder and it doesn't require you to hold the terminal at soldering temp for more than a few seconds.

Terminals:

Heavy-duty Copper Lugs

Solder slugs:

Terminal Solder Slugs

Heat shrink tubing:

Shrink Tube - Triple Wall

This costs more money but you will NEVER have to replace them or have troubles with them.

Click to expand...

Hey All, Im a noob to electrical cables. i want to repair my standard battery cable as one lug broke off. if the standard is 0 gauge, how come when I want to by a lug here http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!duty-Copper-Lugs/p_1012.h_92199.a_1.t_1 it has 1 gauge then 1/0 gauge. What size do I need? Also I'm guessing the lug will be the same size but bonus if you tell me which one and shrink to get. Thanks!

Standard is actually 2/0 for the direct lugs. 0 is referred to as "aught gauge" and is the same as 1/0, so 1/0 is a single "aught" (or as car stereo guys call it, "zero gauge"). Go to Amazon for heat shrink, the price Delcity wants is ridiculous these days.

OperationDesertSand said:

Hey All, Im a noob to electrical cables. i want to repair my standard battery cable as one lug broke off. if the standard is 0 gauge, how come when I want to by a lug here http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!duty-Copper-Lugs/p_1012.h_92199.a_1.t_1 it has 1 gauge then 1/0 gauge. What size do I need? Also I'm guessing the lug will be the same size but bonus if you tell me which one and shrink to get. Thanks!

Click to expand...

OperationDesertSand said:

Hey All, Im a noob to electrical cables. i want to repair my standard battery cable as one lug broke off. if the standard is 0 gauge, how come when I want to by a lug here http://www.delcity.net/store/Heavy!duty-Copper-Lugs/p_1012.h_92199.a_1.t_1 it has 1 gauge then 1/0 gauge. What size do I need? Also I'm guessing the lug will be the same size but bonus if you tell me which one and shrink to get. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Just an FYI, 1 and 1/0 are not the same, fairly big difference. Some wire sizes, from smaller to bigger, 4, 3, 2, 1, then 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0... the numerical order vs size “reverses” once you get into the 0 sizes.

Also, the majority of these vehicles are 24 volt, which will draw half the current of an equivalent 12 volt system. Of course overkill is the name of the game here, but in reality, the battery cabling on these vehicles are sized same as their 12v civilian on-road counterparts, which means they are at double their capacity already, stock.

A 24 volt Cummins 8.3L starter pulls very little to crank, and then again especially in mild weather and with a gear reduction starter. Typical 24 volt modern gear reduction is rated at 7,000 watts (7kW) which divided by 24 volts is less than 300 amps. This same starter is applicable to the Cummins 250, 8.3L, and LDT/S 465 (different nose cones and gears, but same motor portion).

We use fine strand bulk welding cable also at work for starter testing, soldered terminal ends. The copper lug terminals you find at a welding store are much superior to any terminals you find at auto parts store, in terms of their thickness, amount of material around the hole, etc...

With fine strand thick welding cable, it sheds heat too quickly to solder if the torch is put to the cable. We put the lug in a vice, heat it, and fill the cup about 1/3 of the way with solder. While keeping the propane torch flame on the terminal cup, feed the stripped wire into the lug end. Keep heat on terminal until you see solder travel up the copper strands.

jbulach said:

just an fyi, 1 and 1/0 are not the same, fairly big difference. Some wire sizes, from smaller to bigger, 4, 3, 2, 1, then 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0... The numerical order vs size “reverses” once you get into the 0 sizes.

Click to expand...

Too many amps !!!

iIf you need any welding cable, let me know, will hook you up, have some big stuff for all your amps!!!!