Do you remove the brush guard before painting?

[linx310]

I am prepping my M1009 for painting and have a few questions.

For those who have painted their M1009s did you remove the brush guard and paint it separately?

It just seems like it would be hard to paint the back part of it.

Also did you put paper in between the radiator and the grill to block paint from getting on the radiator?

I am using Gillispe paint and I am going to paint the enter truck green first and then paint on the other two camo colors.

How long should I wait before taping off the areas I am going to paint camo? I am using the blue painters tape but I do not want to pull off the new paint.

[67_C-30]

I am prepping my M1009 for painting and have a few questions.

For those who have painted their M1009s did you remove the brush guard and paint it separately?

It just seems like it would be hard to paint the back part of it.

Also did you put paper in between the radiator and the grill to block paint from getting on the radiator?

I am using Gillispe paint and I am going to paint the enter truck green first and then paint on the other two camo colors.

How long should I wait before taping off the areas I am going to paint camo? I am using the blue painters tape but I do not want to pull off the new paint.

The camo pattern was never taped off from the factory. The pattern was kinda freehanded and is fuzzy around the edges.

Since the camo was painted that way, I would think it was left on. I know the military painted them that way.

[GoldComet6]

The camo pattern was never taped off from the factory. The pattern was kinda freehanded and is fuzzy around the edges.

Since the camo was painted that way, I would think it was left on. I know the military painted them that way.

Cool pics....thanks!

[67_C-30]

Cool pics....thanks!

I love those old pics of these things. It seems that old pics of older MV's are easier to find than CUCV's. Here's a few more I've found.

[319]

Depends on if you want a "factory" paint job or not. If you do, remove the guard. Cover the radiator with cardboard or paper. Gillespie dries fast and real hard but i'd give it at least 24 hours before adding the other colors.

[Cucvnut]

i used a plasma to burn out the carriage bolts so i could paint the whole guard and not miss any spots and used bolts to put it back together.

[Asgar]

I took off the grill guard, bumper, all brackets and the grill. This let me paint the frame horns, brackets and backside of the bumper. I also was able to paint all the steel behind the lights and slave plug. It was not a big deal but I did just cut off the bolts because they are a real pain to get off, the center top ones are hard to get to and were really rusted. The nice part of this is that you can spray the grill guard from every angle and do a good job with it. The sheet metal behind the grill will most likely be rusted so taking this extra step gets you more coverage.

For what it is worth, I used john deere 'blitz black' semi gloss black paint for all the under carriage painting, it drys hard and is a nice subdued semi gloss. The pain is made for painting frames and undercarriages, it drys hard and sticks well without primer. It cost about $30 a gallon and you don't have to thin it to spray out of a hvlp primer gun.

[tankie88]

Those pics of the assembly line are interestng.Mil M1009's mixed up with civi chevys.I would have thought there would have been just a straight run of mil chevys then a normal run of civi one's.I stand by to be corrected.

[combat jump]

I'm painting mine this week - and will not be removing the brush guard. I did put cardboard behind the grill to protect the radiator from overs spray. Eventually, I'll do Cucvfreek's mod - replace the carriage bolts with regular bolts.

[Warthog]

Check out Sarge's motorpool paint job on his M820. Not the same as your M1009 but makes for good reading.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-u...-his-m820.html