Think my Injector Pump is shot

So driving down the road the last week and I had a sudden loss of power going up hills. First stop light I came to my M1009 died. I coasted around the corner put it in neutral and it started right up. I was almost home but the rest of the way home no power going up hills. It stalled one more time going around a corner but started right back up. It stalled again as I turned into the driveway. (two right hand turns and one left hand turn)

I changed out my fuel filter. (bled all the air out of the system at the filter and did take the pink wire off the IP).

Still low power. I cleaned the return valve but still low power.

I took off the air filter and ran it around the block without it and still low power so a dirty air filter is not the problem.

When I take the pink wire off the IP and turn on the ignition and then put the pink wire back on I do hear it clicking.

So now I have to decide what next and what will be the least painful.

1. I have 3/4 tank of diesel so I will have to siphon quite a bit out to drop the tank to check the filter sock. Does not sound like a fun job. But I will first check the fuel flow per the manual and see if I have a good flow rate 1/2 pint of fuel in container after 15 seconds of cranking. If I do then I do not think the issue is at my fuel tank.

2. Order up a new/rebuilt injector fuel pump and while I am at it replace the injectors. Truck has 60,000 miles on it.

Am I missing something I see nothing in the manuals about troubleshooting the IP while on the truck the 34 manual only describes bench testing it with equipment not normally found in a home shop.

Did you try adding sea foam to the tank?
Mabey dirty injectors?

I put one can in in the tank every time I fill up.

No waste oil or bio fuels only diesel.

It put a good amount of diesel into the bottle when I bled the filter I just did not time it and then measure how much I had. I will check that again but I think my pressure/flow rate to the filter is okay.

Did you check your return valve on the IP?

Yes I have cleaned the return valve on the IP.

I do not see a tag on the IP so do not know if it had the upgrade on not it is a 1985 model. Not that it matters if its bad its bad. Will update when I find the issue that fixes the problem if its not the IP .

Put a Fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line going to the IP. Make sure you have good fuel pressure under load. The factory Mech LP's leave alot to be desired IMHO. Sounds more like a weak LP. When a DB2 takes a dump it "usually" runs rough and smokes alot.

I had the same problem about 2 years ago with my 1009 and was able to temporarily solve the problem by turning up the injection pump. This gave me more much better performance, acceleration, etc. but I will eventually have to replace the I. P. If you decide to turn up the pump or replace it with a new one you should use a lubricating additive to help prevent I.P. wear as the ultra low sulfer diesel does not have near as much lubricating qualities as the fuel that it was originally designed for.

anyone have any info in checking and cleaning the injector pump return valve? i think something is wrong with mine also.

keefer said:

anyone have any info in checking and cleaning the injector pump return valve? i think something is wrong with mine also.

Click to expand...

Search is your friend.

Advance search for clean+return+check+valve

Came up with lots of hits.

This was halfway down the first page

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/47346-so-i-cleaned-ip-valve-fuel-return-line.html

Third post:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/47346-so-i-cleaned-ip-valve-fuel-return-line.html#post535276

Good luck.

tstone said:

I had the same problem about 2 years ago with my 1009 and was able to temporarily solve the problem by turning up the injection pump. This gave me more much better performance, acceleration, etc. but I will eventually have to replace the I. P. If you decide to turn up the pump or replace it with a new one you should use a lubricating additive to help prevent I.P. wear as the ultra low sulfer diesel does not have near as much lubricating qualities as the fuel that it was originally designed for.

Click to expand...

Do you have a quick link for this I spent over an hour searching here and looking for a picture of where I turn it up at and have looked in the TM's but have not located it yet. Thanks

The term IP gave me nothing Injection pump search did not help or I missed it. and the term Pump gave my 1000 hits.

Nevermind I think I found it FINALLY.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/29045-adjusting-cucv-injector-pump.html

I did not attempt to turn my fuel up once I had the top off it had a few things in the way of the screw. The governor assembly and guide stud. Since it looked like it might start raining at any minute I took the return valve out again and the glass ball is clean. I put the top back on the IP and bleed the system again to make sure I had not gotten any air into the system. I checked the fuel flow and have at least 1/2 pint of fuel at 15 seconds of cranking.

All the post say a sign my Injector Pump is going bad is lots of black smoke I do not have black smoke.

I start it up and lots of white smoke it looks like I am fogging for mosquitoes. If I let off on the fuel pedal it stalls. Do not think it is a low fuel issue

1. Injectors are bad? Will this cause white smoke TM only talks about black smoke for bad injectors

2. IP is off timing? but I have done nothing to the IP and its not loose. This just sudden loss of power while driving down the road. TM says "Aline scribe marks on fuel injector pump flange and crankcase cover." Where are these marks at? TM has no pictures of this but they do talk about putting your own marks on it when removing it. Raining now so will look some more tomorrow.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Okay went out and checked one more time and scrapped away the black paint and found some marks they are aligned.

Circled in red. and just because it was there what should be hooked up to these lines circled in blue. They have always been hooked up this way and had no issues with running or shifting.

tbearatkin said:

I did not attempt to turn my fuel up once I had the top off it had a few things in the way of the screw. The governor assembly and guide stud. Since it looked like it might start raining at any minute I took the return valve out again and the glass ball is clean. I put the top back on the IP and bleed the system again to make sure I had not gotten any air into the system. I checked the fuel flow and have at least 1/2 pint of fuel at 15 seconds of cranking.

All the post say a sign my Injector Pump is going bad is lots of black smoke I do not have black smoke.

I start it up and lots of white smoke it looks like I am fogging for mosquitoes. If I let off on the fuel pedal it stalls. Do not think it is a low fuel issue

1. Injectors are bad? Will this cause white smoke TM only talks about black smoke for bad injectors

2. IP is off timing? but I have done nothing to the IP and its not loose. This just sudden loss of power while driving down the road. TM says "Aline scribe marks on fuel injector pump flange and crankcase cover." Where are these marks at? TM has no pictures of this but they do talk about putting your own marks on it when removing it. Raining now so will look some more tomorrow.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

You might have a bad head gasket does the white smoke come from one side or both when starting the truck.

White smoke both sides and does not smell like antifreeze. Smells like fuel

tbearatkin said:

and just because it was there what should be hooked up to these lines circled in blue. They have always been hooked up this way and had no issues with running or shifting.

Click to expand...

Those rubber hoses inside your blue circle are attached to the transmission vacuum valve.

The upper hose coming off that valve connects to a metal hard line that runs along the passenger side valve cover. This hard line travels toward the rear passenger corner of the engine and down to the transmission. The lower hose off that valve should route around or underneath the intake manifold towards the large vacuum pump at the middle rear of the engine.

The scribe marks are those in red. Advance is turning the pump toward the driver side.

Some things to consider:

1. You can believe in SeaFoam or any other additive but the only way to now is get a 30mm socket and pull those injectors. I did this to mine a can a tank didn't seem to be doing much. When you tighten back down make sure to tighten them back down. Takes a decent amount of force to keep them from seeping diesel (new copper gaskets can be had at NAPA for 30)

2. Play around with timing and idle. If it's conking out but getting enough fuel seems that you need to find what your idle is at and bump it up.

3. Try different timing settings. Advance it a 1/16 at a time and see where it gets you to...make sure to change setting while the engine is off but hot (running temp).

4. Also, try unplugging the green wires at the IP (cold advance solenoid and high idle). This will rule out your cold advance having anything to do with it and if it is a problem points to your temp sensor in the block or other electrical issues.

5. Are you definite no air is being introduced into the fuel system? Sounds an awful lot like that too. There are no diesel leaks anywhere? Off the bell housing? From the lift pump? Changing to a spin on filter might be a stab in the dark, but its an upgrade regardless.

Just some thoughts. Good luck.

Thanks right now there is one rubber hose connected to both nipples. I have had no issue with shifting since I have had it so never really looked into where they went. Thought they might have been been part of some emission control device.


Now to solve the low power white smoke.

White smoke was caused by a cold engine yesterday and excess fuel in the cylinder. Today after it warmed up no white smoke. Only issue is the low power. I drove it around the block and was lucky to hit 30 mph.

What should happen when this is done?
Also, try unplugging the green wires at the IP (cold advance solenoid and high idle). This will rule out your cold advance having anything to do with it and if it is a problem points to your temp sensor in the block or other electrical issues.

Am I sure no air is being leaked into the system. NOPE not sure at all but will continue to entertain this could be an issue as I have seen in the past how a small leak was missed.

For my vacuum lines a previous owner had bypassed the valve and hooked a line directly to the transmission line.

Thanks for all the assist on trouble shooting the TM's(TM 9-2320-289-34) did not have a whole lot to say about low power or white smoke. And since my marks were aligned it seemed to be timed correctly but maybe with age it needs to be advanced some.

27. NOTICEABLE LOSS OF POWER
Step 1. Check fuel injector pump timing. (See paragraph 3-44)
Step 2. With engine running, check for compression leaks at all fuel injector nozzles and
glow plugs.
Tighten any leaking glow plugs to 10 Ib, -ft. (14 N.m). Tighten any leaking fuel
injector nozzles to 50 Ib, -ft. (68 Nom). Repeat check. If leaks are still found,
replace glow plug (see TM 9-2320-289-20) or fuel injector nozzle gasket (see
paragraph 3-5).
Step 3. Test each fuel injector nozzle. (See paragraph 3-36)
Step 4. Test compression of each cylinder, (See paragraph 3-2)

There was a thread a while back I cant remember what the title was.
But it spoke of an air leak from the back of the fuel filter houseing.
If i find the thread do the link thing here.

Hard starting CUCV's

I finally found it.