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Head gasket getting ready to blow?

FMJ

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Here is a pic of the motor in my 1009 with a Banks turbo installed for about a year now. It runs only 10 psi boost max, and is always under 1100 on the pyro on steep grades. I found this while locating an oil leak, I thought. . . . It looks to me like the head gasket is leaking oil out between the block and head, this started on the passenger side head about a month ago, and is now appearing on the drivers side. Has anyone else seen this? I was planning on driving this truck across country, but am now not sure.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Ed
 

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doghead

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I thought 6psi was all they could take.
 

patracy

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doghead said:
I thought 6psi was all they could take.
As much as I loathe banks.... He does get things right sometimes.

http://www.bankspower.com/magazines/show/497-spring-break-diesel-upgrades

Banks recommends a limit of 10 psi of boost and a maximum exhaust gas temperature of 1,100 degrees F. Exceed either of those two numbers and you'll blow a head gasket (if you're lucky) or melt some pistons (if you're not so lucky). Contrary to what you know of gas engines, diesels actually run hotter when you add more fuel, so a turbo can force more air into the engine and cool the combustion temperatures. We have to relocate the gauge pod up high where we can see it better. If the engine begins to approach either limit we can just back off the throttle to cool things down.
 

patracy

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And back to the original post. Yes, you probably have head gaskets going south IF it's leaking from both sides. If it was only the drivers side, I'd be more suspect of the oil cooler lines leaking and an updraft of air causing that. But both sides, means something else is at play.

How does the truck run? If it runs ok, you can try to tempt fate a little an try checking the head bolt torque and snugging them a tad more. It's common practice among the cummins crowd as well.
 

patracy

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Well, if it runs fine, and it's not a primary vehicle, I'm of the mindset to torque the heads down again and see if things improve. If not, the damage (HG) is already done. The only thing it could worsen is if you ham fist the head bolts and snaped one.
 

FMJ

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Worth a shot, I will check the rear most bolt tomorrow, if its already at spec or within 10 lbft on the high side I think I'll just be safe and throw a set of head gaskets at it. Primary right now as my 06 GTO is constantly going into "safe mode" while driving.

Thanks
 

FMJ

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manual, M6, with magnacharger, think its the oil pressure switch which I can't access without removing either the supercharger or the tranny
 

FMJ

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it's got a new 6.2 CDR bought from a member here a couple years back, put on new with the turbo.
 
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wayne pick

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If or when you do your head gaskets, I would suggest replacing the head bolts with ARP head studs. Re using head bolts is not recomended as they stretch and loose the ability to acuratetly torque the heads to spec.
 

doghead

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And use sealant!
 

patracy

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And use sealant!
I would only possibly use copper sealant spray at most if you were going to do that. Not really a wise idea to introduce a variance of mating surfaces when it comes to head gaskets. I'd only use the spray as well if I had worry about the straightness of the block. (The heads should be surfaced no matter what)
 

doghead

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On the bolts or studs(whichever you choose)
 

FMJ

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Heads are cracked, maybe the block as well. . .
Can't afford magnafluxing right now, so I'm trying to put together a bandaid motor from the various 6.2's I have laying around. . . . :-(
 
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