Getting more and more interested in adding turbo to 1008

For quite awhile I have not had much interest in doing this since kits run up around $3000. After reading some of the posts around here and looking at used stuff I have become more interested in adding a factory turbo from a 6.5. It also seems that piecing individual parts together may be a cheaper route than buying a complete take-off? What are your thoughts and what do I need to watch for to make things easily compatible with my truck?

Seems like the main components to dig up would be the right manifold, turbo assembly itself and upper and lower intake. Seems a lot simpler than I originally thought. Can someone take a look at the photo of parts below and tell me if there's something missing that I need to know?

Also, would I need to do something different with my IP and injectors? Thanks.

Mechanical wastegate controller, and the soft tubing for the pressure side. Your IP will work.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101319-Late-model-6-5-waste-gate

I'm not sure about the drivers side manifold down angle, the manifold on the CUCV is a straight down exhaust pipe flange, the late model manifold exhaust pipe flange is angled back 15 or 2 degrees, I have not gotten that far on my truck yet. But it looks like you are off to a good start!

Thanks for the response FMJ and also the link to your thread. I did not see that on my searches. I am getting excited about rounding up parts for a turbo install and any pointers would be appreciated an what all I will need for the swap to my 6.2.

I now understand the part about mechanical waste gates but what manifold(s) should I be looking for?

Mike

Well, you won't be able to use that cross over exhaust tube with the manifold that is on your truck now, without some modification, or bending up a new tube. The manifold on top is a stock CUCV driver side manifold, the one on the bottom is from a 97 2wd C3500.
I still have not figured out which one I'm going to use to route the exhaust to the turbo.

That's helpful, thank you. So if I had both manifolds off the newer truck then the crossover should work? What are the rest of you guys using for manifolds?

That is a really cool project and I wish you luck with it just keep us posted on the progress. As a side note just be careful of how much money you sink into it because you may find if or when you go to sell it you will never recoup your money from it. Ask me how I know

twomorestrokes said:

That's helpful, thank you. So if I had both manifolds off the newer truck then the crossover should work? What are the rest of you guys using for manifolds?

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That's the $10,000 dollar question, yes, it will, but. . . on our CUCV's the front drive shaft is on the passenger side, I have not determined if the crossover tube will interfere with it. On the Banks kit, the tube is routed forward on the drivers side and then across to the turbo manifold. The factory turbo manifold does not support this.

Scarecrow1 said:

That is a really cool project and I wish you luck with it just keep us posted on the progress. As a side note just be careful of how much money you sink into it because you may find if or when you go to sell it you will never recoup your money from it. Ask me how I know

Click to expand...

Ain't that always the case when building a hobby project? Boats, carts, trucks, and believe it or not, vintage bicycles.

buddy of mine put a banks system on a 6.2. it didn't last long, they weren't designed to have that extra boost. that being said Im sure it is do-able and Im sure guys have done it successfully. do yourself a favor and don't cut corners or cheap out on things. These are sometimes tired, old, 25 year old engines

keep the boost under 10psi and it will live!



These are my observations, your mileage may vary!

Good advice FMJ
yea, i have a feeling my buddy bought the parts and 'farmer' installed it. Just a warning to do it right. follow past advice. lots of times these old engines would run for years normally, until you ask more of them. I was just throwing it out there as i've seen it go the bad way.

Seems if you run the boost much over 10, they pop pretty quickly, based on what I've read here and on other diesel sites. 6.5 head gaskets seem to cure the problem. Also, the 6.2 banks turbo was a dealer installed option I believe.

You need the both exhaust manifolds from a 6.5 diesel. Then the cross over will work no problem. If you leave the drivers side manifold stock the cross over pipe will not hook up because the flang on the manifold is smaller than the flange on the cross over pipe plus the stock manifold is a smaller tube than the manifold for the turbo. So in you picture you need the drivers side exhaust manifold.

Thank you. I found a similar setup 50 miles from me with no crossover pipe for $400. 200k on the truck it was pulled from. Seems like a lot of miles on the turbo for that price?

I'd pay it, just to have all the pieces, and a spare turbo. Is it equivalent to the pieces you posted in your first post?, if you can get the whole motor with all the pieces I'd do it in a second.

I'd just end up with one turbo. Seller wants $600 for the stuff in the first photo. I found a very similar setup from another seller for $400. No engine, just all of the turbo pieces. Second guy has both manifolds and down pipe but no crossover.

Mike

twomorestrokes said:

I'd just end up with one turbo. Seller wants $600 for the stuff in the first photo. I found a very similar setup from another seller for $400. No engine, just all of the turbo pieces. Second guy has both manifolds and down pipe but no crossover.

Mike

Click to expand...

There was a Banks setup on ebay 2 days ago that sold for $600. If you keep your eyes open, they pop up more often than you would think.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-2L-6-5L-D...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr





A few things to look for with 6.5 set-up:

If you get a '93 - '94 GM-3 turbo, it has a mechanical wastegate controller that you can bolt on and not have to modify to get it up and running. It is preset to 6 psi, but that's fine until you get gauges and pyro. You can modify it to be adjustable later, or buy a turbomaster boost controller or make one yourself.

If you get a set-up from a '97 - '98 with the intake with dual T-stats, you will have to fabricate a throttle cable bracket. The 6.2 bracket won't work with it, but it will with the '93 - '96 single T -stat intake.

The factory oil return plate with the 6.5 will require you to eliminate the mechanical fuel pump to use it. You can either do this, or weld a fitting into the oil pan (that's what i did on my '67 C-30). The Banks set-up has the oil return made into the plate that fuel pump bolts to, so you don't have to remove the oil pan to weld in a fitting or the fuel pump.

You will have to make a oil feed line for the 6.5 because the 6.2 doesn't have an oil port on the front of the block like the 6.5 does.

You will have to change to short injectors or run manifold spacers with 6.5 turbo manifold. The manifold will make contact with factory long 6.2 injectors and will not bolt up.


The 6.5 set-up is nice, and I'm sure I'll install another again at some point. You should just know what all is actually involved with installing it. It is not a simple, quick bolt on deal like the Banks is, but it is not really hard to do either. It just requires a little more work and more fabrication.

For all you with 4.56 gears and th400's, i would not put on a gm turbo!

It is good for low revs, but can not flow what our engines flow at high rpm/ highway cruising.

I would be too worried about drive pressure, that is more important than the boost imo

Thanks C-30. That is exactly the kind of information that I find most helpful! I'm busy scanning eBay and C/L.

Mike