turn up the fuel....

Sorry guys ! I know someone said how to do this to a T but I cant find it anywhere and have searched all over. how do you turn up the fuel on the pump? (465-ic ) I do have my temp unit in and ready to go and now want to turn up the fuel just a tad. help... :turn:

alright look on the front of the fuel dencity compensator and there *should* be a little tin cover with some safety wire on the bolts. defeat the wire and take off the cover. wala a threaded rod with two nuts. get two wrenches and losten the outer one while holding the inner. next tighten the nut to make more power. you want they pyro PRE the turbo! some say just be lazy and stick it behind the turbo and estimate but no one know how much to assume or how long of a delay it takes post turbo.

Does it take very small adjustments to start off or do you like turn it at 1/4 turns? :devil:

Well mine is after the turbo. I know I know but I tryed for about 3 hours to heat and turn the plug in the manifold out but its not moving. I really did not want to crack the manifold, Ive doen that befor on other cars and its a real pain when you do. so Im just going to turn it up a tad. and I mean a tad. It does really good as is so Im not looking to smoke the tires ( already can do that ) and race off the line, just a little more push for them Wisconsin hills.

you realy dont want the pyro in that plug anyway,but it sounds like you will get by. the perfect spot is to take off the turbo and put it in right above it so that you know EXCATLY what the temp is. maybe im just too pickey. i went by 1/4's then 1/2's and ended up with about 10 turns total but it hit 1200 easy enough. remember this is just my trials yours will likely vary. i would probably stay around 900 or so to be safe with a post-turbo pyro. As i turned mine up the boost went up as well so the egt didnt change untill i hit about 8 turns then it quit building more boost and just made heat. after adding the propane it would build about 28 PSI boost at 2500. be for all this it would only pull 8 or 9 psi. i estimated it to be well over 200 hp. what i guy should realy do is go get an LDS turbo and change the timing....oh thats the other thing you can do to help pin point your power band where you want it. i advanced my timing about 2 degrees to raise my power band higher to avoid lugging. Thats another thing you saould make sure to avaid! dont lug it at all these motors have very cheap soft crankes and weak head gaskets. two things that will not last if you ever lug it. ahk im just rambling now. have fun and enjoy the black smoke

Interesting, I havn't turned my fuel up at all and the boost pressure hits 12-13 psi routinly. My engine was N/A and the turbo installed and timing changed, but no fuel delivery change. The N/A engine has less fuel than the turbo version to begin with. With the pyro, you will end up looking at it as much as the tach almost, especially in hill country.
900 is probably a safe max for an after turbo sensor.
For a while, I had a digital display (Fluke DVM plus thermocouple adapter) and it registered all the temperature peaks instantly, peaks that don't show up on the "analog" gauge, so don't drive too long at or near 1,200 deg F (900 for after turbo temp).

The Multifuel engine is conservatively rated 140 hp or so. The thing is that it can run forever at that power output, but when the power is "turned up" there will very likely be a limit to how long it can run at that higher output. You have changed the classification of the engine....

hmmm...the n/a motor is set up differntly than the turbo one. in my parts book they give differnt pistons and some other stuff for them.. that might be how you get more boost or maybe my motor was just de-tuned. I think i look at my pyro much more than the tach like you said. Its easy to listen for the motor but i just cant quite hear the diffence from 1100 to 1200 deg.s

yep had to do the head gaskets already. not a bad job at all just popped my back out lifting the heads out by my self. ( not a good idea)

you know....i was going to ask you if you had ever had head gasket problems....

This is good reading guys. I have a question. I have a 69 with a whistler turbo. Would you guys recommend a pyro guage even though I don't plan on engine mods? How much do they cost? Is there a write up done?

I have one more question. I have been warned about head gaskets. I noticed that when my engine was idleing that it looked like real small bubbles were trying to exit the front edge of the block where it meets the head at the gasket. They are very tiny and almost not noticible. They appeared to cycle with the compression stroke. Should I buy a head wrench and tighten or at least check the head bolts?

Not trying to hijack the thread but you guys seem to really be familiar with these engines. My lower back is already bad. I don't want to have to take the heads off... Thx.. Al.

I got mine from checker for 70 bucks. ( was head dick for 2 years ) but over the counter its like 140.
Should you get one anyway?? Well by the time you see the oil dummy light its all over in most cars, so the guage is a really good idea. you really have to ask your self why not .lol Its not a bad idea in any way, but if your not going to play nascar with your truck your prob ok.


O yeah how do you change the timing on the 465? :turn:

WT,
Good question. I'm not sure myself. I can tell you on a 302 or 351 or a 283 or..........

lol same here im a old race car man my self. I have built 355 chevys that set people back 60k. but the 465 is a new one for me

thats enough$$$ makes my dads 970 HP naturaly asperated no NOS just ONE crab 496 for 27K look cheap

When you turn up the fuel rate make sure you have the engine up to operating temp. And change all three fuel filters. If you use dirty filters and turn it up when you change filters the difference in back pressure will change the setting. After the engine is warm remove the cap H R D mentioned , loosen the lock nut and screw in the adj screw with a small allen wrench. Use 1/8 turn increments. Before you turn the screw, with the engine idleing open and close the throttle rapidly while watching the exaust smoke. Then after each adjustment rapidly open and close the throttle untill the exaust smoke starts to blacken. Then lock down the lock nut and test drive. What you are looking for is black smoke under acceleration but not while crusing. If it's smoking black while crusing, that's unburnt fuel and your wasting it. My ldt465-1c will pull 11 to 13 psi of boost and 1200 deg at wide open throttle under a load. I've never had a head gasket problem and the truck will easly pull redline in high gear LOADED! If you want PM me and i'll walk you though it on the phone. I almost forgot you'll be turning the screw clockwise to increase the fuel rate. OH and one more pice of advice, DON"T pass a school bus on the left side after doing this, you WILL fill the bus with the prettiest black smoke you have ever seen!

Ok guys whats going on here. I took off the cover with two bolts, and I found two springs and a stud of some sort with a flat slot in the middle ( flat blade scrue driver type) but no lock nuts. So I took off a cover on the top of the pump with 3 bolts and I found one spring but no adjusting stud. ( broke a bolt off and it took a wile to tap back out) Am I doing something wrong? :banghead:

hey all,
just read through this topic.....I have been opening up my fueling rate cautiously over the winter....night and day difference! Anyway after you pull off the triangle shaped cover you see the threaded metering rod with the two nuts. It is my understanding that the metering rod has a sort of hook arrangement on the end inside the housing. It was stressed to me to not allow the rod to turn as the "hook" will break off inside then you are screwed. So you need to hold the rod while you break loose the outer or lock nut. Then I mark a flat of the inner or adjusting nut to keep track of how many sixths of a turn I make. Then make your adjustment as you hold the threaded rod with one hand. Tighten the locking nut again making sure only the nuts turn not the rod.

Hope this helps those that haven't been brave enough to mess with their fuel...

Yea , what you are looking for is a silver colored (if it's not painted) round cap. IT's about 1/2 inch dia pointing twards the radatior. It's on the viscosity dinsety compencator. Just behind the distribtor head where the injector lines go to the pump. It should have a small wire seal going through a hole drilled in it to stop you from removing it. Cut this seal and throw it away. This cap is on the adjusting screw. It also is used to keep the lock nut from vibrating loose. After removing this cap you can lossen the lock nut and make your adjustments.

Whats with the different directions from Ken and Bigkaiser? One is a rod you don't turn and the other is an screw you turn??

I will be making my adjustments when the weather gets better.

from my guess there are a couple of different pumps out there I think mine uses springs. I have taken apart every cover and found no nuts or studs just springs