Combat Jump M1028 CUCV Winch Install

I wanted a winch that would look like it was original equipment; not a hitch attachment. I also wanted to remote the control box to an under-hood spot, rather than attached to the winch itself. Here is what I did:

1. Got a Harbor Freight “Chicago Electric” 12,000 pound winch for just 300 bucks with a coopin. I’m not going to debate the quality of HF verses (insert brand name here), it’s what I could afford, and there are quite a few favorable reviews online.
2. While the installation is a permanent one, I wanted to be able to disassemble and remove the brush guard and bumper if I ever had to (for collision repair or whatever). For that reason there is nothing welded to the bumper itself.
3. I wanted to keep the brush guard intact. I wasn’t able to do this, and had to cut out a horizontal bar to allow the winch to drop into the mounting channel.
4. The winch mounting channel is welded to the brush guard vertical supports. I used an HF universal fit winch mount channel and cut it to fit between the supports. Keep in mind that the point where the cable comes out is not centered on the winch. I took this into consideration, and cut the channel slightly offset. I also added extra steel pieces to “cap” the ends of the channel for a more finished look, and extra bracing.
5. I sawed a chunk out of the bumper to allow the winch to sit lower and set deeper into the truck. There is less of a “hanging out in the wind” appearance this way.
6. So, while the winch plate is welded to the brush guard, what it’s bolted to (though the winch mount channel) is welded to the frame – this is the second structural attachment point. I ran a ½”x2” wide bar the length of the winch mount plate, and drilled it to match the bolt holes that come with the mounting channel. I bought extra (longer) grade 8.8 metric bolts that go through the ½” bar, winch channel, and winch.
7. To tie this ½” bar to the frame, I welded ¼” wall 2” square tubing from it to a new frame cross member of the same steel.
8. I had to relocate the license plate.
9. The control box is attached to the front battery hold down. I may come up with something better soon.
10. I painted the winch desert tan to match the truck.

Cool, it looks good man

Looks very nice.

Looks nice dechrome the handle and make it sand too as well as the rollers and it will look GI.

Very nice job. I use the same winch on my truck recoverys. You wont be disappointed.

Vary nice jobs look kick a. SSS .

Good point.

nattieleather said:

Looks nice dechrome the handle and make it sand too as well as the rollers and it will look GI.

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Good point, Nattieleather.

I am adding this photo of the control box and circuit breaker connection to the battery. the breaker itself is an awkward piece to fit to the positive lug of the battery without contacting something else. I finally decided to saw a section of the hold down bracket out, to ensure that the breaker would not contact any other metal (being +12 volts). Like most of us, I have had to replace the giant cube shaped mil batteries with what is available locally - that's why the wood block spacers are used.

I have the wireless remote control too, and it works fine. I just have to figure out a nice place to mount it.

Overall, a fun project that kept me busy in the shop for a few weekends. Thanks for all the positive comments!

Was thinking about using that same winch. Great write up and
it looks great.

Looks good, all 'built in' like that.
I used the same winch too. I welded the universal mount to two receiver extensions, HMMWV tow hooks fit them instead of the narrow CUCV ones. I added a detachable push bar assembly just for fun.

readyman said:

Looks good, all 'built in' like that.
I used the same winch too. I welded the universal mount to two receiver extensions, HMMWV tow hooks fit them instead of the narrow CUCV ones. I added a detachable push bar assembly just for fun.

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The push bar is a good idea! I may add one.

combat jump said:

The push bar is a good idea! I may add one.

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CJ, You can probably slide it right over the tow hook square tubing, and make some 'custom' spreader bars for their distance apart. Surplus HMMWV tow hooks work pretty good on those wider 2' hitch tubes.

Looks great man. Is their a way you can show us how u tied it into the frame. Like a picture from underneath the truck. Thanks

Welcome to Steel Soldiers, dfranzo! Thank you for the kind words.
I see this is your first post. Please find the Requirements for New Members and post your introduction. You will find that this forum is a great resource to both draw from and contribute to. I've learned a not here from others.
Regards,
CJ