M 35 6x6 with quadra steer 6x6x4?

All right this is my next plan as soon as the cummins is done and i run 100 or so miles on it. I have a bunch of 10" long travel air bags and im going to use one on each axle to lift a rear. (rear or center axle) then add a steering axle to the center. When i go for a long cruse i can lift the center axle and gain wheel base for a better ride. and the air bag will also have a portion of the weight on in to that will be jsut like adding air ride when one axle is up. or when im trying to get through the wendys drive through i can lift up the rear and use the center steer axle to turn on a dime. Also a helping factor is that when i spread my axles for the little bitty 16.00's the center one got closer to the front and that wheel base is shorter than my reg. cab long box pick up so if it steers too the thing has got to turn on a dime.


What do you think?

I want a video and a timer on the that drive thru exhibition! [^] ounds like a plan to me! I've thought of picking up a rolling chassis and a spare front axle and making some mini hemmit thing.

Reading this stuff I know I've found the right forum. The Mil Veh mailing list is all about memorizing paint codes and getting just the right wire in the right place to win shows and enter parades and stuff. I just want a truck that RIPS IT UP!

Killer idea, but I wonder if the steer axle will be strong enough in the rear. Even though you wouldn't be wheeling it, per se, the axle shafts (joints themselves) might end up being the weak link.

Also, make sure that you'd be incorporating a physical center lockout. This would be mandatory, in my mind, for a rig that sees alot of highway time and does it at a good clip. Wait, though, since this would be lifted normally, then you're good to go! I like this idea even more.

I bet a 2.50 ram would be fine to steer it. Make up some lines, figure on a 8" throw to save on your componentry (I think lock to lock is normally 9" or so), and you could even use a single ended ag ram since you won't be using it as a true "all the time" steering app (which would normally behoove you to use a double ended and spendier ram).

This begs the question that's been bugging me for a long time - what about full hydro steering on a street driven deuce? I have it on my rock buggy, and oh is it ever sweet. I have a load sensing steer valve, and it maintains a "center" as well as being able to be turned manually when the engine is off. Sorry about the hijack, but it seems like this is the place.



Bob

oh yeah you found the rightr place to rip er up.
hijack all you want pal im interested in new ideas
My plan is to run the hydo steering in the rear like you speek of but it must have a lock, (lookin into a spring brake chamber so it would lock if it lost air) or the DOT will shut you down. At least in minesota you need to have a mechanical link hydo wont work. I think i will just build a set up like usa 6x6 sells with and electric pump rather than steel off my P/S pump. Have a toggle in the cab to unlock and steer is waht i was thinking. What do you mean by maintaining center? it goes back to center or when you re-center the steering wheel OR the wheels dont follow untill it goes over cenrter the other way? Thats how our 2004 CAT 980G loader works but its hard to get used to with the airplane like steering wheel

For the amount you'd use the rear steer, couldn't you use like an older...and for example "Dyna-Mite" electric/hydraulic pump plow control? Push right, rear goes right...etc. As far as strength, those big U-joints should hold up fine. Just make sure to keep the king pins greased.

Take a look at some of the Ural trucks...3372's? Don't remember, but the guys at eurotruck found that making the mid axle steer and automatically lifting the rear axle worked well for trials.

Hot rod,

I mean you will need to find a steering valve that's load sensing, which will mean that it will support return to center. Set up the caster on the steer axle so that the knuckles return to center, and then run such a load sensing steer valve. Without a load sensing valve, the wheels will just stay pivoted forever. With a load sensing, they will eventually return to center. You really want to run load sensing valves, in my opinion.

I was actually thinking of adding air bags to push the frontmost rear axle down for parking lot maneuvers, thereby bringing the rearmost axle up. That by itself would reduce turn radius, but if you did this along with a rear wheel steer, you would turn on a dime.

ok heres another one that ive been thinking on.....get another 2 1/2 ton and chop everything off and just keep the box, rear suspensioncand a few feet of frame then pull the rails together and make a pup like trailer box thingy. Last but not least stick a drive shaft back there so they drive too. oh and 16.00 20's to match the truck

You're not alone with that thought. I have the spare non dropside bed I pulled off of 'Blue' and looking for a use for it.

well i have an M 135 without a box....ahk it would be easier to just get the rockwells. Have you looked into any of those residue trucks on GL? some seem to go realy cheap close by until i start bidding then they are worth more i guess.

I keep my eye on GL and GSA. I'm kinda out of the truck acquiring market for a lil' while unless its that sweet old wrecker I posted a month ago. A guy just dropped of his Rockwells (a pair of steer axles) for a burly M715 project with full front and rear hydro steer, rear spool, front Detroit, pinions...etc. All of a sudden there's gonna be a pile of 715's on 395' XML's. It's a beautiful thing!

Oops, back to topic...Dave Newman will has some stripped down trucks there that a guy could probably do pretty good on.

Well, I still have the 5 ton axles some driveshaft flanges, a long wheelbase M55 ( plenty of frame ) long enough for aux. box. No bed on it but I went through the master cyl. and the airpack has great brakes now! $3000 or trade for 5 ton tractor , what ya think?