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M1009 turbo build

remote6

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Kenosha Wisconsin
So heres what I have done. I got a 6.5 turbo, intake and exhaust manifold for 250$ off a 95 hd chevy. Took off the heads and put new felpro .10 bigger head gaskets and felpro head bolts from advanced auto those where like 85$ for both. Went on ebay and ordered an oil supply line 26$ and got some exhaust wrap from amazon 100 foot roll was 50$. Also from a lot of the posts on here guys talk about clearence problems with the injectors and lines on the passanger side, I had no such problem just used one exhaust manifold gasket its tight but fits fine. I still need to put the intake manifold on probably tomorrow. I also have to get an electric fuel pump advanced auto has one for like 50$ will probably get that one and put it in line closer to the tank, Ive read thats better then up by the engine. The last step will be the to make up the exhaust crossover and down pipe. And get a boost gauge and maybe a pyrometer I know I should realy get one but $$$$$ so IDK maybe just the boost and keep it under 10-12 psi.
Heres a couple of pics before the turbo build! Just about done!



1055.jpg1047.jpg1048.jpg1049.jpg1050.jpg1051.jpg1052.jpg1053.jpg1054.jpg1046.jpg
 
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remote6

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Kenosha Wisconsin
I was thinking of going with the 6.5 injectors but don't want to spend the money. From what I have read on here and other sites is they put out about the same psi the 6.2s are like 1800 psi and the 6.5s are 2200 ish psi, and I guess the pop off presser is longer on the 6.5 most people keep the 6.2 injectors as will I the truck only has 44k so the injectors should be good for a bit. As for the pump I will turn it up 1/8 then most likely to 1/4 turn as most turn it up a 1/4.
 

06TBSS

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Huntington Beach, CA
cool idea going to the 6.5. I was thinking the same thing today as my 91k mile 6.2 rehab is getting finished up at the shop...bosch injectors, rebuilt ip turned up and glows + valve covers and fr seal(rear seal/pan just done)
 

DUECE-COUPE

Member
357
5
18
Location
Scurry. Tx
Can you post pics of the injector pump turn up? I don't know howto do it, but i want to learn so can in the future if it is simple, and will not grenade the engine
 

remote6

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Kenosha Wisconsin
I will post pics of the injector pump later. Its really simple, take the cover off remove the set screw on back of the pump and take out the linkage turn the engine over with a breaker bar on the crank its a 15/16 socket line up the allan screw and turn it up an 8th to quarter turn and put back together. It will be easier when you see the pics. I just looked it up on here and youtube there's a Canadian kid that has a video its pretty good. Look up 6.2 fuel turn up or 6.2 ip pump its like a 10 to 12 minute video.
 

remote6

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Kenosha Wisconsin
IMG_1358.jpgIMG_1359.jpg Ok so the pic on the left shows the yellow arrow on the back is the set screw to take out the linkage take that almost all the way out leave it in a bit to hold that spring in. Then the yellow out line is the linkage that you take out. Once that is out the allan screw to turn up the pump is just bellow the yellow cycle, turn the engine over with a breaker bar 15/16 socket until you see the allan screw. Turn allan screw clockwise however much you want to turn up the pump, I did about a quarter turn. Use a turkey baster to get the fuel out.
 

remote6

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Kenosha Wisconsin
IMG_1372.jpgSo started work on the down pipe and exhaust. Got some 3 inch pipe and 3 45 degree angles. Cost 100$ for 8ft of pipe and the 3 angles. Thought 2 would get me down and under the cab but had to use all three. Was going to use the 3rd to shoot it out the side but will get another one. Its going to run outside the frame and exit out the side just after the passenger side door. Almost welded it all up but ran out of flux core wire. And was going to take more pics but the phone died.
 

storeythor

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Location
Glendale, Az
Ok guys, first hello to all, and if im not mistaken im popping my first post cherry here.. I am the proud owner of an '84 M1009 CUCV for approximately a year now.. I had a rod spin in the original motor, and went looking for a replacement.. What I found was an '85 Chevy 1-ton dually with a 6.2 and factory option Banks turbo.. The motor swap went perfect, and ran perfect until about a month after the swap the glow plugs quit working..

It still starts and runs perfect when warm, and with starter fluid when cold.. I hear starter fluid is a bad thing, so I only use it if I MUST move the vehicle.. Im still learning about the CUCV glow plug system as this is my first diesel, so until I figure it out it will sit..

The turbo however works awesome(for that month that the glow plugs worked, lol), eliminated the throttle response lag and made a night and day difference in power.. So just as an fyi, this is another turbo option that seems to be easier if you can find the factory Banks option..
 

remote6

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Location
Kenosha Wisconsin
Banks is a common known option, but the problem is it costs lots of money! I bet it is a lot easier to install, Im not sure of the difference in performance. I searched for a year to find my turbo. Looked in every junk yard around me for like 100 miles, called some. Anyways in my searching I dont think I came across any diesels that hadnt been picked apart yet.
 

remote6

New member
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Location
Kenosha Wisconsin
Have not been out to work on the Cucv in about week Im tired of the cold but there's going to be a heat wave tomorrow 33 degrees, think Ill get out and work on the exhaust and finish that up then just have to put the alternator back on and the boost gauge on. Still need to find a pyrometer on the cheap any ideas?
 

V8Astro

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StL/MO
Pyrometer and cheap usually don't go together. I got my VDO from Summitracing. It was the cheapest one I could find that came with the gauge and the probe in one kit p/n 310153
 

halle09

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long island/ny
all in all how much would you say you spent on the whole setup you made? a write up of parts cost would be helpful if you could. Also ...HOW DOES IT DRIVE!?!?:driver:
 

remote6

New member
87
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Location
Kenosha Wisconsin
Spent a lot. Its the small things that really add up. Have not drove it yet its not done! Im hoping tomorrow!
Turbo intake manifold 50$
Turbo with exhaust manifold 200$
head gaskets and head bolts 89$ I think
exhaust gaskets 15$ each I think only 2 used
intake gasket 12$
upper intake gasket around 10$
pyrometer with probe 90$
boost meter free! used
oil line 29$
exhaust pipe 118$ for down pipe
exhaust pipe for crossover 14$ so far have not finished it
two exhaust hangers the rubber pices 12$
exhaust wrap 50$
probably 100$ of randome stuff
fuel pump 30-60$ have not bought it yet.
I need a couple of hoses i had to cut idk what those cost yet.

So tomorrow I will have the crossover on and will have to hook up a fuel pump and change the oil and hopefuly will be starting it up!
 
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