hopefully the final nv4500 swap thread

Lets begin. Ive done this exact thing on another truck forum I belong too and it turned out wonderful. The name of the game: I make a list of all the tools, parts, steps, modifications, problems, custom parts etc. needed to do this swap. Orginize them, have people fill in the banks who have also done this swap before, I make an organized list, update it as we go until enough info is needed to do the swap, and boom. I do a full write up and add pictures. Ive been reading multiple forums, questions, threads, write-ups, and cant find one from start to finish with pictures, and important 1st hand tips and tricks (though I did find tons of info). This should sum everything up...hopefully.

My rig in question is a 1986 m1008. but this should apply to all cucv's. Im not a fan of auto's to begin with, and with these gears its killer (I do plan on upping the tire size). My th400 is beginning to slip and decided I might as well satisfy myself and go the extra mile and do the swap. Here it goes.

parts needed (used)

• nv4500 (np205 or 208? could the stock 205 be used? What year 4500 is most desirable and does gas or diesel matter?)
• all appropriate gear selection sticks and 4x4 stick...if its not included with trans...
• clutch pedal and bracket
• slave cylinder and hydraulic lines
• speedometer cable?
• flywheel (I know its been mentioned, but which flywheel would be used?)

parts: (new)

• Clutch kit (should come with Throwout bearing ad pilot bearing)
• (might as well put slave cylinder down here as cheap insurance)
• shortened front driveshaft and lengthened rear (this is where the tips and tricks come in...have you guys found anything that fits stock?)

Mods:

• instead of locating a new bellhosing, I head its possible to grind and modify the existing for clearance issues.
• drill hole in the floor (should be stamped in the right spot already) to plumb the clutch line
• hole in the trans tunnel for new shifters
• does the crossmember have to be moved forward or backwards on the frame? Or will it bolt in the existing spot?
• custom driveshafts
• jump the plug to trick the truck into thinking the "no longer auto" transmission is in park or neutral...so that way it will start lol
• remove auto shift linkage (I believe you can leave the column shifter in place)

I can get into detail about removing the auto to make way for the new, but that can be covered later. For now I just want to get the lists worked out before we start talking about wrenching. Like I said, you guys can add stuff, drop some hints or tips in, correct a few things, and as I learn I will update the list by adding or removing things until we can eventually make this a full write up from start to finish.

I built the NV4500 behind my 6.5TD 1995 K2500.

1993 has the lower first gear, 6.34. '94 on is 5.61. Doesn't matter which you get, just depends on what you want. I have heard, but can't verify, that in '96 the bell housing changed and if you ever plan on doing a Cummins swap you want '96 on.

It doesn't matter if it came from behind a gas or diesel.

Make sure the appropriate fluid is used. New Venture is very specific on what the trans calls for. You can get it from Chevy and Dodge dealerships. It's pricey, but not as expensive as smoking all your synchros.

I would assume the flywheel for the 6.5 would work for the 6.2, probably want to go with solid flywheel and not the dual mass.

Pedals are going to be biggest problem. I have the hyd. For square bodies in my 1009 and I used the clutch pedal from a 91.. even heavily mod. The one from the 400 series truck worked better than hyd. Set up... think slave master cylinder ratio is bit off..I used 208 t case that way you can use a 700r4 crossmember.

Just did this swap on my 86 m1008. Get a hydro clutch pedal setup. Simple swap out/in. Stock driveshafts fit fine, even with my 6 inch lift. 1008s use the NP208, and it directly bolts to the nv4500. I did have to make a transmission mount spacer that was 4 inches tall, but no big deal, used 2x2 square tubing. Not a bad swap. Feel free to ask me anything or check out my build thread in my sig

To answer your questions line by line.

parts needed (used)

[*]nv4500 (np205 or 208? could the stock 205 be used? What year 4500 is most desirable and does gas or diesel matter?)

Use the stock 208. Bolts up

[*]all appropriate gear selection sticks and 4x4 stick...if its not included with trans...

Stock shifter from newer truck fits perfect.

[*]clutch pedal and bracket

As stated, use hydro clutch pedal set.

[*]slave cylinder and hydraulic lines

Use the square body master, newer model slave, and have a custom hose made. I had to buy the newer model hose just for the odd fitting the slave uses.

[*]speedometer cable?

Plugs right back up. Its on the transfer case

[*]flywheel (I know its been mentioned, but which flywheel would be used?)

6.5 TD solid mass FW and clutch bolt up. Get new FW bolts.

parts: (new)

[*]Clutch kit (should come with Throwout bearing ad pilot bearing)

Yep

[*](might as well put slave cylinder down here as cheap insurance)

Absolutely. New hose as well.

[*]shortened front driveshaft and lengthened rear (this is where the tips and tricks come in...have you guys found anything that fits stock?)

The stock ones fit. Not necessary.

Mods:

[*]instead of locating a new bellhosing, I head its possible to grind and modify the existing for clearance issues.

If the BH is from a diesel it fits. Only thing that must be ground is the nosecone of the starter. Youll find out why when you attempt to bolt up the flywheel. Dont be shy, mark it and grind it, it wont hurt the nosecone.

[*]drill hole in the floor (should be stamped in the right spot already) to plumb the clutch line

Yep

[*]hole in the trans tunnel for new shifters

Yep

[*]does the crossmember have to be moved forward or backwards on the frame? Or will it bolt in the existing spot?

Works right where it is

[*]custom driveshafts

Nope. Not needed

[*]jump the plug to trick the truck into thinking the "no longer auto" transmission is in park or neutral...so that way it will start lol

Not necessary on the CUCV. I locked my column in park and removed the shifter.

[*]remove auto shift linkage (I believe you can leave the column shifter in place)

Yep

Ilike mention above I have two cucv with nv4500, one is from an 89 2wd that I swap the tail shaft. the other was from a 93 k3500.. the only difference is the shifter tower.
the older one shifter is about 3 4 inchs above the floor.. A couple more things keep in mind. GM foot print for trans for 700r4 and nv4500 are the same, you can use the 700r4 cross member with the trans mount works well with 208/241 case. Also remember that the trans hump in floor is 2 inches lower that the one for the manual model, hence the shifter tower in the cab.. one last thing nv4500 shifter tower location relative to tthe 4 speed option at the time is 2 inchs farther toward the seat. depending on year of trans may have to trim out.

Would a trans tunnel from a 4 speed K5 work with a NV4500 with no cutting?

I had mentioned in another post, as far as neutral safety and starting in gear with a man, you could use the switch on the clutch pedal and tie into the starter relay ( the one used in the Doghead mod), this way, the truck would only start w the clutch depressed.

Excellent information here, thanks for all the details. I am curious about the bell housing. It is listed as:

Mods:
[*]instead of locating a new bellhosing, I head its possible to grind and modify the existing for clearance issues.

If the BH is from a diesel it fits. Only thing that must be ground is the nosecone of the starter. Youll find out why when you attempt to bolt up the flywheel. Dont be shy, mark it and grind it, it wont hurt the nosecone.

My automatic doesn't have a bell housing, is this referring to the bell housing on whatever stock manual came in a M1008 CUCV? If so, are the other comments concerning driveshafts and transfer case based on starting with an automatic or a manual.

Would love to make the switch in my 86 M1008, need to figure out if I can afford it before I start tearing stuff apart!

No manual ever came in a cucv. The bell housing we are referring to is from a stock newer model truck. All stock driveshafts will work because the length of the nv4500 is very very close to the th400

Im doing this as well may have some.pointers for the noobs...

Using a np208 ? lol no way if you want my opinion not that anyone asked for it.

Have a napa part number for the clutch start switch that goes on the hyd clutch pedal assm.
Napa NS5543 its about 15.00
Also swap out the collum for a manual shift looks alot more professional IMO.

Thanks for the clarification. I have a 6.2 l diesel, what range of engines and years will have suitable bell housings, and are any better than others?

There is one Bell that is IMHO better than the AA BELL its mfg by a company called Quicktime / now owned by lakewood but from memory its only for the dodge with a cummings engine.. AA has it tied up for the chevy engine pattern from everything ive read and heard....Or I would have a better bell than a AA BELL.

The AA bell fits the straight 6 chevy engines as well as the small block and big block chevy engine the 6.2 and 6.5 gm diesel as well.

The nv4500 is its own transmission pattern IE no other bellhousing will work unless a nv4500 was behind it or its one of the nv4500 bolt patterns. there are two an early and a late and the pilot or bearing retainer hole are not the same size either..

Look for the AA NV4500 bible as I call it and download it from the AA website you will learn alot from that pdf.

Gran Degajeur said:

Thanks for the clarification. I have a 6.2 l diesel, what range of engines and years will have suitable bell housings, and are any better than others?

Click to expand...

I learned a thing or two

I found a local NV4500, includes bell and shifter. It is out of early 90's 2WD Chevy, 6.5 diesel. I will be putting it in a 1008. On the picture, it looks like there is an output shaft where the 4WD version would have an adapter to the transfer case. Can I buy that adapter or will I have to find one in a junk yard? Will the 2WD trans work in the 4WD application? Owner wants 800 for the whole mess.

The adapter I mentioned above is not necessary. Actually, it is part of the automatic trans, linking the transfer case to the tranny body. Looks the same as the part I saw on the build pages I found. Can anyone confirm that the part from the auto tranny will bolt onto the 2WD NV4500 tranny?

Thanks in advance!

rlltide12 said:

Just did this swap on my 86 m1008. Get a hydro clutch pedal setup. Simple swap out/in. Stock driveshafts fit fine, even with my 6 inch lift. 1008s use the NP208, and it directly bolts to the nv4500. I did have to make a transmission mount spacer that was 4 inches tall, but no big deal, used 2x2 square tubing. Not a bad swap. Feel free to ask me anything or check out my build thread in my sig

Click to expand...

Did this 4" mount spacer sit on top of the preexisting transmission mounts? My crossmember has 2 mounts that the 700r4 to NP208 adapter/spacer sat on top of: did you leave these in place or remove them?

I assume you are talking about the rubber grommets. I installed it on top of them

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Yeah, I think we're talking about the same thing. Okay, thanks for the info. I'm in the middle of my NV4500 swap from my 700r4/NP208 combo. I'm building the spacer now but I opted to use the '96 NV4500 trans mount. If you used those factory grommets and a 4" spacer on top then that's 5" total from the crossmember to the trans. The NV4500 mount is 3" so I'm only using one 2" piece of square stock. Just wanted to make sure the distances added up. It looks a bit high to me but the NV4500 looks nothing like the 700r4 so it's hard to compare thinking about those two occupying the same space.