Replacing fusible links with maxi inline fuses

From reading the postings and the TMs i understand and have found the different size fusible links. In order to make the electrical system more reliable and easier to fix wouldn't an inline maxi fuse work better? If not please tell me why. I can carry spares and replace them much easier than fusible links. Also since the fusible links vary in size should the fuses also be different sizes. As always I appreciate the advise.

[h=2][/h]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]PVC Body - With LED warning light when fuse is opened. Inline Indicating Fuseholder with waterproof cap.

[h=2][FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Use with Maxi Automotive style fuses - APX.[/FONT][/h]

[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica] Electrical Specifications
20A-60A 24VDC​

[/FONT]​

So what size would you use? Have you calculated the load that each fuse will have? What about surges? Do they make a slow-blow maxi?

Not trying to bust your chops, just asking questions that need to be answered before you start. The manufactures have already done that with fusible links.

Except for the slow blow fuses I am asking if someone has the information you mentioned.

Yes they do make slow blow maxi fuses.

You can also get automotive circuit breakers up to 50 AMP but get the ones you manually reset so you know what the problem area is. Eddy

I know this has been covered before.

How much did you search before posting this?

Many and a lot of them are interlinked. There are many ideas but to summarize in 3 categories 1. that is the way it was built so it should stay that way 2. I took a shot at it I and tried this and 3. Some make recommendation on other ways to do it like above. I am looking for the best. Where do you stand on the subject. I also know that the wire gauge does correspond to an amperage rating. So do I just do this on the most likely to burn 24V fusible links. I am looking for some advise and interaction. I am a novice at his and looking for some help from the experts

i

I was told they did fusible link for manufacturing purpose and ease of assembly, also remember that 24 volt your amperage is cut in half.. so adjust accordingly.. but there is not much equipment on CUCV that is 24 volts..

I'm going to jump on the brakes here...these trucks are 30 years old. Period! Technology back then going from a glass fuse to an automotive ATO blade fuse. Wonderful when we want cast iron gear drive transfer cases and kingpin front axles. Bad news when we want electrical prowess. Fusible links were common back then because they were cheap, easy to integrate, and worked out of the gate. Unfortunately they suck to fix and create a mess which leaves you stranded if you have an overload for whatever reason. Put a slow burn Maxi fuse in it or a resetable breaker and you will be fine. The charging circuit is not overly complicated. Just be careful that your size does not go beyond the current capacity of whatever circuit you are upgrading. A standard maxi fuse will probably work but you may run into a surge that will pop it which still fits within the parameters of the circuit load. I'd carry a few spares or if it does happen, replace it with a slow burn and see what happens.

My fusible links are original and still look decent. I don't plan on replacing them but when time and money becomes plentiful, I wouldn't hesitate to get rid of the weak link in the chain!

bcolemanttu said:

I am looking for the best. Where do you stand on the subject.

Click to expand...

"The best" is a subject of debate. There are a few folks here who get highly offended at any suggestion that something can be improved on these beasties. They take it personally.

I'm with you - fuses would be better. There are good reasons that fuses have replaced fusible links. But....

Replacing fusible links with fuzes isn't as straightforward as you might think. You need a very deep, very thorough understanding of the circuit, what its demands are (both sustained and transient), before you can properly size a fuze. I have learned that getting that directly from fusible link size isn't as straightforward as I had originally thought.


So, should you do it? Hey, it's your truck - have at it!

But I don't think anybody has a plug-n-play answer for what sizes to use.

Thanks for the feedback.

Wow, makes me think my Cuck is complicated like a space shuttle. Look at the smallest wire diameter in the protected circuit, figure the length that wire runs, then read a simple chart to determine what the maximum current it supports. With a slow burn fuse, that's your fuse size. You are simply reverse engineering it. How else would you determine what size wire to run when adding a circuit to a truck? You can reference any marine or rv book regarding wiring.

Remember all the fancy BS is great but at the end of the day stick and rudder lands the plane!

Go it thanks

I protected some important circuits with self resetting circuit breakers. The accessory feeds, the glow plugs, the headlights.

Do you remember what size for each?

duplicate post...

hummm.... following this thread.

I would like to upgrade a couple fusible links that burned when my starter locked (nose cone cracked and put the starter in a bind, in process of replacing/rebuilding) with maxi fuses. And several other circuits too, like headlights and other important items with circuit breakers.