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UAZ joins the fleet

Driver_Neil

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Recently added a UAZ 469 to the fleet here to replace the Alvis Stalwart that had to be sold. Bargain price of £1,000 but in need of much care and attention. Work is ongoing - currently having fun sourcing indicator relay and hazard switch to complete the electricals but should be fun when done.

As bought:

New_addition.jpg


Currently:
IMG_7248.jpg UAZ 469.jpg
 
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Driver_Neil

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If anyone is interested the full photo library to date is here: http://s34.photobucket.com/user/ArtistsRifles/library/UAZ 469?sort=3&page=1

As of now head, side and tail lights are all working properly, a secondary number plate light has been fitted onto the jerry can holder to take a UK size number plate light as and when DVLA get off their backsides and issue me a V5 log book. Last weekend I spent sometime going over the seams on the roof with a seam sealer normally used on nylon tents, reason being when it rained the water came straight through and made the interior a swimming pool. Good news there is after 4 days of non-stop torrential (by UK standards!) rain the seams are staying dry!! Only water inside now is coming in through the door tops and glazing seals which are all knackered as are the doors. The door tops are meant to seal up tight against the roof material but on mine the tops of the doors are bent out of shape so the door tops lean outwards. Door bottoms are rotted out too as are most of the captive nuts used to secure the tops so I need to order new doors and seals. Probably new tyres as well but we will see what my MV friendly MOT tester says once I get the license plates and can get it on the road.
 

Driver_Neil

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Are you actually able to get parts?
Oh yes - once you can get the price and shipping costs out of the suppliers then ordering is remarkably easy - if long-winded as to delivery times.
Primary ones I use for parts are Tarmot, Russian Spares and Moto-Armia. Current order is in with Russian Spares and it's coming up on 15 days since funds were handed over........ The stuff will arrive in time :)
 

Driver_Neil

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Package from Russian Spares arrived today - new indicator relay, oil pressure switch,mirrors and new outer door handles (lockable).
Fitted the new relay in place of the old one and still nothing. Then I noticed the red light on the dash didn't come on when the ignition key was on. Further checking revealed the fuel gauge didn't respond either and that led to the discovery of no power to the instruments. Seemed a bit odd so I traced the power supply back to the under-bonnet fuse box and made sure nothing was broken. I had continuity back to the bottom of the #2 fuse but a volts check revealed no power to this terminal. #1 and #3 were working fine and I remembered from the wiring diagrams that the power feed for #2was jumpered across from #1. First thought was I had put the fuse box in upside down but looking at the old one there were no internal connectors behind the front. At which point I noticed a metal strip across the front between #1 and #2. Looked at the new panel and it was missing there so I removed the screws from the old panel to find that this strip was also in fact removable - so I did. Fitted it to the new fuse panel and everything jumped into life.
Embarrassing lesson of the day - do not assume that because every other vehicle I've had that had split power supplies relied on internal paths an Eastern Block vehicle will do the same!!

This was the missing part:
20141020_160238.jpg

And this is where it was missing from:
20141020_160342.jpg

With that sorted I turned attention back to the indicators. After pushing one or two of the male connectors on the patch leads back into the vehicles multi-plugs the Right indicators burst into life - at least front and rear did, not the side repeaters so I need to see if there is power to that. Nothing on the left side though so to prove things out I hooked up the right output from the column switch to the left circuit and these then worked. Again no side repeater though. I know the cables belled out OK so I think it must be a poor contact between the bulb and the terminal.

A small video clip of the working indicators : http://youtu.be/8MaphmnhV3g

There are a few indicator switches on eBay so will probably get one there. RS are taking about 13 days for deliveries. Still waiting for the right hazard switch to arrive (there was one included with the order from RS - but the wrong type - needs a round multi-plug) - apparently it was shipped from St Petersburg on the 16th. Once that is here I can get rid of all the patch leads and refit the relay etc. properly.
Tomorrow I want to have a go at fitting the screen printed overlay for the speedo to convert it into MPH. Then it will be ready for the road once the authorities get around to issuing the paperwork.....
 
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datadawg

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Package from Russian Spares arrived today - new indicator relay, oil pressure switch,mirrors and new outer door handles (lockable).
Fitted the new relay in place of the old one and still nothing. Then I noticed the red light on the dash didn't come on when the ignition key was on. Further checking revealed the fuel gauge didn't respond either and that led to the discovery of no power to the instruments. Seemed a bit odd so I traced the power supply back to the under-bonnet fuse box and made sure nothing was broken. I had continuity back to the bottom of the #2 fuse but a volts check revealed no power to this terminal. #1 and #3 were working fine and I remembered from the wiring diagrams that the power feed for #2was jumpered across from #1. First thought was I had put the fuse box in upside down but looking at the old one there were no internal connectors behind the front. At which point I noticed a metal strip across the front between #1 and #2. Looked at the new panel and it was missing there so I removed the screws from the old panel to find that this strip was also in fact removable - so I did. Fitted it to the new fuse panel and everything jumped into life.
Embarrassing lesson of the day - do not assume that because every other vehicle I've had that had split power supplies relied on internal paths an Eastern Block vehicle will do the same!!

This was the missing part:
View attachment 523125

And this is where it was missing from:
View attachment 523124

With that sorted I turned attention back to the indicators. After pushing one or two of the male connectors on the patch leads back into the vehicles multi-plugs the Right indicators burst into life - at least front and rear did, not the side repeaters so I need to see if there is power to that. Nothing on the left side though so to prove things out I hooked up the right output from the column switch to the left circuit and these then worked. Again no side repeater though. I know the cables belled out OK so I think it must be a poor contact between the bulb and the terminal.

A small video clip of the working indicators : http://youtu.be/8MaphmnhV3g

There are a few indicator switches on eBay so will probably get one there. RS are taking about 13 days for deliveries. Still waiting for the right hazard switch to arrive (there was one included with the order from RS - but the wrong type - needs a round multi-plug) - apparently it was shipped from St Petersburg on the 16th. Once that is here I can get rid of all the patch leads and refit the relay etc. properly.
Tomorrow I want to have a go at fitting the screen printed overlay for the speedo to convert it into MPH. Then it will be ready for the road once the authorities get around to issuing the paperwork.....
Wow, that is a LOT of work and headaches and as much as I enjoy this hobby, I am far too lazy and busy to immerse myself into this kind of effort. Kudos to you for pulling through.
 

Driver_Neil

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Location
Essex, UK
Wow, that is a LOT of work and headaches and as much as I enjoy this hobby, I am far too lazy and busy to immerse myself into this kind of effort. Kudos to you for pulling through.
Cheers - not there yet though!! :)
Once the indicators are sorted I need to do something about the doors - both the drivers side ones have the upper face distorted so the bolt-on tops actually lean out away from the vehicle - a safety hazard as well as letting the water in! And I still have to sort out at least one fuel sender and the temperature gauges/warning lights!!

The one good thing about having been out of work for 7 years (no one wants a 58 year old Oracle DBA with a service history these days) is I have all the time in the world to do this sort of this,,,,
Of course the down side of being out of work is not having the money to do all I would want!! :smile:
 
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Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
I might just be imagining it:

- But the sheet metal on that thing (in your first post) appears lighter gauge than what is typical,

But is that just an illusion?
 

Driver_Neil

New member
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Location
Essex, UK
I might just be imagining it:

- But the sheet metal on that thing (in your first post) appears lighter gauge than what is typical,

But is that just an illusion?
Illusion I think - it is all fairly substantial. All I can say is this one was built under licence in Czechoslovakia but seems the same as Soviet ones I've seen in times past.
 

Driver_Neil

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Location
Essex, UK
Success - and bad news!!

The success part - fitted the BK422 hazard switch that arrived yesterday and also the PC850 then connected up the multiplugs and tested the system. I now have working indicators, left and right, and hazards so all is ready for the road as and when. The only electrics left to do now are the side repeaters and the input to the heater fan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjyV0mhnve0

The bad news - the curse of the UAZ has struck again - the fuel pump does not seem to be pumping. :( Engine will fire after cranking a while but will not run and looking at the clear in-line filter there is no fuel in it. Pumping the hand prime lever does not show anything coming out of the "in" line so I guess it's pump off time. Bl**dy annoying as it's a brand new pump!! :(
 

Driver_Neil

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Latest updates!!

First off the not running has finally been resolved. I've been tied up with a Series Landrover that blew a head gasket and trashed the cylinder head the last few months in between rain storms so this week was the first chance I've had to play with the UAZ again. To check the pump I disconnected the fuel line from the upper filter and stuck it in a jar whilst I worked the priming lever. I was quite surprised to pump out nearly 1/4 litre of fuel with no problems. So after reconnecting the fuel line I went in search of answers. Talking to another UAZ owner, he told me there are two ignition circuits for the coil, one used whilst cranking and the other whilst running. The fact it fires whilst cranking but died when the key was released implied a problem with the feed to the coil. Investigation sowed the feed to the coil come from the bottom of the 1st fuse in the 3 position block under the bonnet. So I took the fuse out - and it was blown. Rewired the fuse, tried to start, still nothing, checked fuse and it was blown again.!!

20150308_120610.jpg

I returned to the PC and pulled up the wiring diagrams I have for the 469 - there are a number of them and all differ so it's a case of finding the bit on each diagram that most closely resembles what's installed and taking it from there. To my surprise every diagram agreed that the running supply for the coil was supposed to come from the top of #2 fuse, not the bottom of #1. Closer inspection showed #1 was rated at 6A whilst #2 was rated at 10A. I swapped the terminal over, repaired fuse #1 again and retried the ignition - this time it burst into life!!
In doing so I acquired a big pool of rusty water under the UAZ with no sign of a leak from the cooling system - AHA!! thinks I - bell housing is filling again some how so next job was to slide under and drill a 9mm hole in the base of the bell housing. so that in future the rain water will drain straight out.

The next day was a Landmark day for me and the UAZ!! It was the first time the UAZ 469 turned its wheels in anger on the road since I've had it. Only a short trip, maybe 2 or 3 miles to the garage and back to have the DVLA allocated chassis number stamped on and the letter certified.
It was fun!!!
Some minor issues were noted though:

* Brakes are binding - take foot off the throttle and it slows immediately, press the brake pedal hard and there is a noticeable pull to the right.
* Only instrument working was the ammeter. The temp and oil pressure were non-op and need sorting as does the fuel gauge which has a mind of its own!
* Clutch tends to stick and grab - probably because the bell housing kept filling with water (drain hole now drilled) - I had to try starting in reverse gear because the clutch was stuck.
* Definitely need the door mirrors fitted as the rear view with the hood up really is sh*te!! Not fitted them yet as I have new doors on order from Tarmot in Poland.

Lucky it is LHD as otherwise I'd still be waiting because my right hand is still to all intents useless after I smashed it on the sife of the UAZ batting a spider out of my face....
Still fun to drive though and I think it will be better with the door tops off as it was hot work. A different experience to the Series Landie - less wandering and certainly smoother over the numerous speed humps. (Must remember the indicators are not self-cancelling). It was a pleasant drive over to the garage to get the licensing authoritys letter rubber stamped to confirm the VIN they had issued had been stamped into the metal of the chassis. This is now sent off so hopefully I should get the log book soon and be able to get proper number plates made up.

Looking forwards to more drives once the paperwork and the problems are sorted :D

Yesterday I replaced the central gauge cluster to see if all the engine senders were OK to cure the non-working gauges. Simpler than yanking out the senders to test individually as a couple are positioned such that getting at them is a nightmare. Good new is they are all working. The oil pressure gauge responds immediately and temp gauge slowly comes up after a few minutes running. Fuel gauge is still iffy though - as you see in the video on one setting it barely reads whilst on the other it goes full deflection - there are roughly 10 litres in one tank and about 20 litres in the other so assuming each tank is 45 litres I was expecting to see a 1/4 tank on one and 1/3 on the other. so looks like it will be a case of replace the senders. These are now on order too. SO is the manual fuel change over tap in the floor as mine seems to be frozen stiff. Hopefully Tarmot will get the RH doors in soon and there will be a large order enroute to me!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfS1HS5uHLE
 

Driver_Neil

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Another task tasked today. Having embarassed myself by pouring fuel into one tank and then having the carb run dry only for the penny to drop that I had poured the fuel into the tank the selector tap wasn't aimed at I changed the fuel tap over. The orginal on was frozen and there was more chance of the handle snapping then there was of it moving. After doing landrover ones it came as a bit of culture shock to find you have to have two peope to do this one becasue as soon as the 10mm nuts are loosened the bolts just dpin unless some is insife with a spianner to stop them. So it took a bit longer than I expected - especially as the unions go into the tap a lot further than a Landies and there is virtually no "give" in the passenger side feed line. But now I can swap tanks at will so that just leaves the senders to sort out!

20150411_164350_zpskx6azx3z.jpg 20150411_164501_zpsxozfeh70.jpg

Lessons learnt in todays job:
When working underneath always clear the mud off first else you spend up spitting mud out out every few seconds.
If it rains before starting work empty the roof first as there WILL be a gust of wind that WILL dump the contents onto the exact spot you are working and the chill shock WILL make you involuntarily head-butt the gear box. And this hurts.
A lot!!

View attachment UAZ_fuel_tap.wmv20150411_164350_zpskx6azx3z.jpg
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,825
4,156
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Lessons learnt in todays job:

When working underneath always clear the mud off first else you spend up spitting mud out out every few seconds.
If it rains before starting work empty the roof first as there WILL be a gust of wind that WILL dump the contents onto the exact spot you are working and the chill shock WILL make you involuntarily head-butt the gear box. And this hurts.
A lot!!

wisdom.jpg
 

Driver_Neil

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Location
Essex, UK
Latest updates and not good news alas.
Firstly the local gang of Afghan refugees have dumped brake fluid in the load bed so now I need to clean all that off and repaint it. Bloody annoyed about this - a neighbour said they saw them hanging around in our drive by the back of the vehicle a couple of days ago but nothing seemed touched other than the home-made registration plates I put on to get to the garage for verification of the chassis number stamping being stolen.
Secondly - I went to take it to a cold war cars event on Sunday (yesterday) - one of the guys offered to drive it there on trade plates - and we found the starter has gone "lazy" - even with a mains starter pack hooked onto the battery I could spin the engine faster on the hand crank than the starter would turn it over. So I need now to either get this one repaired or source a replacement

Oh - and it does not seem to be drawing fuiel from the passenger side tank. So that will be a case of disconnecting the feed line to the tap again and giving it a blast with an air line asn the fuel pick up might be blocked. Or, given the dents in the bottom of the tanks, damaged......
 
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