Reinstalling Yokes after replacing the pinon seals...

Quick question, I just replaced the pinion (Driveshaft) seals for all my differentials and the front of the transfer case. When you reinstall the 1-1/4" nut that holds the yoke in place, how tight do you crank it down? Can you use an impact wrench and crank it down till it seats and then through the cotter pin back in place? Or are you supposed to seat the yoke and then back off 1/4 turn on the nut and then through the cotter pin back in?

I know that when installing wheel bearings, you would normally seat the bearing by tightening down the spindle nut, then back off a 1/8 to 1/4 turn before installing the cotter pin.

Any advice would help.

Thanks,

Tyler

The TM says to torqe it.

That's what I'm looking for! Couldn't find it in the TM's I have. Must be brain dead or something. Will, Your the best! Sure you can't come to Fontana this weekend? I know you want to!!! Just say yes....

L8R

I would like to replace the pinion (Driveshaft) seals for all my differentials also.

Did you have a hard time with getting the yoke off....??

Thanks,

C'dub

Little guy on the left shoulder says, " Go, just go, DO IT!" Guy on the right shoulder says, "Well, you know there is alot of stuff to do, and you know Lisa won't be happy." Damn good guy! Sorry, gotta behave this w-end and get the stuff done i've been neglecting. The med bills from Lisa's heart attack started comming in. If I didn't have insurance, it would be way bad. Thankfully, I have good insurance, an 80/20, not too bad, but still a bit overwhelming. I do not like living on credit or in debt. I need to get them paid off. Besides, the winter off road season is upon us, got a few things to do on the bikes and the trailer that I bought parts for at the end of last season. There will be more trips. Take pics though. There are lots of unexplored containers out there.

Cdub, Replacing the seals was a pain in the A**. Get a good solid impact gun (Ingersol Rand from Sear worked awesome!) My drive shaft bolts didn't want to break free but the new impact gun made short work of that with a claimed 1000 ft lbs of torque in reverse.

As for removing the seals... Sucked!!! The best tools that worked for me was a small crowbar from home depot (about 1.5 feet long, blue in color, with a rounded shaped nail puller on one end.), and a "Seal Puller" from Sears (Its black in color, flat, and the hooked end looks like a double ended ice pick that climber would use) Another terrible description on the tools I used, I know...

You'll also need a sturdy flat head screwdriver and a regular hammer to finish the job.

Re-installing was a pain too. The new seals I got were a little skinnier than the ones previously installed. I couldn't get the new seals to seat all the way back into the differentials, so my new seals are flush with the housing. Looking at my yokes, they are worn down from the previous seals. So, I'm hoping that having the new seals a little farther out will do the job nicely. (Not looking forward to buying new yokes, much less finding them somewhere.)

So far, out of 7 seals replaced, only 1 still leaks. Not too bad by my standards. Oh yeah, plan on spending a fair amount of time on your back under the truck. It was really enjoyable.

I'm telling you, I hate leaks with a passion. However, I understand that these truck do leave their mark from time to time.

Overall, it took me about 1-1/2 days to complete the job from start to finish, including going back and forth to Sears and the autoparts store.

Good Luck!

Hi Tyler,

Thanks for all the heads up........sounds like something I might want to do when I'm in the right state of mind......

C'dub