Body Filler

What's the latest & greatest type of body filler that you guys have had success with?
Back in the 60's we used Bondo. Even used some lead. Yes, lead.
I have heard there are "lightweight", "epoxy", & maybe some others nowdays.
Are they any better?
Thanks,
Eric
CBVET

I still use the old fashioned stuff, light-weight as well. follow up w/glazing compound & sanding primer. I didn't like the epoxy stuff, never used the lead, but heard how well it works?
JMHO,

fiberglass resin jelly its made by bondo it in the green can

Re: RE: Body Filler

M-37Bruce said:

I still use the old fashioned stuff, light-weight as well. follow up w/glazing compound & sanding primer. I didn't like the epoxy stuff,

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x2.

I used bondo to fix my parent's porch where the wood had rotted out (at the joint of 2 boards). I scored board lines into it and painted over. I couldn't even find it after I was done!

Oh yea, and I use it on cars too.

RE: Re: RE: Body Filler

Bondo is a polyester base filler and is known to absorb/hold moisture., I like to use 3M marine filler as it is a vinylester (sp) base and is water resistant. It goes on and sands just as easy as Bondo but it does cost a bit more.

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Bill W said:

Bondo is a polyester base filler and is known to absorb/hold moisture.,

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Thats why you MUST cover with a good layer of quality primer if there is ANY time before you plan to paint. Particularly in more humid areas.

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I have used the blue-green Bondo brand fiberglass resin filler and cloth with success over the years. I like it better that the regular red filler. It is moisture resistant and doesn't crack like the other stuff.

My last big body project was my 1984 1009. I finally had the skills and the MIG to weld in new floor panels, rocker panels and a tailgate skin. I slicked any uneven areas with the green filler and glazing compound. You can't beat new metal. I would love to learn to lead panels. I have seen it done before, but it exactly like icing a cake.

Eastwood carries a couple of good fillers too. One is called Metal to Metal. They also carry a padded dash filler. I haven't tried it on a CUCV dash yet, but I have visions of filling my dash cracks smooth and then covering it with a fresh stretch of vinyl.

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I have used a product called aluma-lead, made by Ditzler in the past. I believe it is now referred to as "All metal". very good.

No experience with plastic fillers.

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Tsmall07
You would need to use a good primer AND a primer sealer, this will work on the exposed side of the filler but there are holes that you could not get to the other side of the filler to seal ( ie kick panels,piller posts ) and thats where moisture can get into the (poly) filler.

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The reason Bondo absorbs moisture is that it is made of fiberglass resin mixed with talcom powder. The talc is what gives it the putty-like consistency, but also the moisture affinity. If you need alot of bondo, you can make it yourself and save some money.

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I have seen a friend of mine use lead on a hot rod project of his about 12 years ago. If you know how to apply it correctly, the finish is smoother than Bondo and fiberglass, and it is easier to work when hardened than you would think. There is a hazard of breathing the lead fumes, but what isn't hazardous nowadays?

I have been using Marson and Evercoat products for over 30 years with great success.
There is different grades and applications. Read the description to suit your needs or call them for best advice in your application. Some fillers work better on aluminum or urethane materials.

You can find them here:

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-499-body-fillers.aspx

bondo and evercoat.........then prime.

Your finish will depend on you prep work.

C'dub

I have used the Evercoat brand, liked the way it worked and handled.
I used there fiber glass filler they call Tiger Hair with long strands then used there light weight filler call Rage Gold. the light weight sanded very nice, but you do have to watch for air pocket pin holes, but not a big problem.
The brand is a little more in price but I think you get what you pay for, I found it a local body supply house near me that was cheaper them any of the on line places I looked at and then I didn't have shipping cost.

Using lead and plastic fillers in my restoration shop I can say that it all depends where on the vehicle the filler must be used. there are places that take more abuse than others and lead is a great product to use, but must be used correctly and takes a bit of practice/skill. Even after filing and careful sanding a good metal glaze should be used over the top before sealer/primer. My personal favorite in body filler is Evercoat Rage Extreme. It is super easy to spread and pinhole free if you are careful in mixing and application. I always follow with Evercoat MetalGlaze or Easy Sand, just to make everything perfect. The real secret to getting good filler results depends on a few things. In the old days filler was applied directly to bare steel and that is still done today with good results. Here is one potential problem with that. When filler cures it makes heat and if applied to a cool surface that can form a very small amount of moisture under the patch which in time can lead to rust under the filler. The way to avoid that is to use an epoxy sealer on the panel first and then apply the filler over that so there is protection under the patch. You have to make sure the sealer and filler are compatable but that makes a great patch. There will always be two sides to this story depending on who you are talking to and I am not trying to get in the middle of that argument, just stating how I do it. Take you time and have fun.