Recommendations for a good epoxy primer? tips?

I am getting ready to sandblast the cab of my hemtt in a week or two, and as soon as I get it back from blasting and powdercoating (the interior only) I am gonna want to get some paint on the exterior.

My plan is to spray it with Ospho then give it a good epoxy primer and finally finish it off with the Gillerpie 383 I've had stashed away since summer.

What do I need to know about epoxy primer? The last paintjob I did I used the red-ox gillespie, and it worked fine, but its been recommended to me that I use an epoxy primer for better results.

I'm using a Harbor Freight gravity feed spray gun. I have a heated enclosed environment I'm going to paint/cure in.

Any tips? What number of coats? Anything you think I should know?

dma251 said:

....Any tips? What number of coats? Anything you think I should know?

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- Paint as soon as possible after sandblasting. Maximum 6 hours, recommended!
- Epoxy primer is specially interesting if it contains a mayor proportion of zinc powder.
- A second coat, after cure and light sanding of the first, is always convenient.

G.

I work on sea going tugs and for primer we always use amerion 235 I think. Im not sure of the number but its epoxy primer and it gets used below the water line. There is info on it at http://www.mdnautical.com/ameron/235-PDS-AI.pdf but im really not sure if that is the right number.

We also use a lot of shermin williams corathane number 1 or 2 I forgit the number also. One is for aluminum and another one is for steel. I think its around 80 a gallon for the shermin williams the amerion works better for rust but the shermin williams is easyer to work with and I doubt you would have any problems with it unless you planned on leaving your truck in the ocean for a few years.

sorry that wasnt the primer its ... Ameron Dimetcoat 302 H and not 235 I beileave that has zinc in it

Good undercoat

I can recommend POR15 products. Their website is www.por15.com , and no, I don't own stock in their company.
I painted the underside of my Jeep, to include the frame, a few years ago. Unbelievable results! The stuff is incredible, not a single spot of rust after beating my Jeep almost to death. I often did not get around to cleaning the wet mud off the bottom for a few weeks. No problem.
I'm not sure, but I don't think you can spray it. Check the site, maybe you can. They sell a bunch of products aimed at serious car restorers. Not cheap, but it sure works.
One tip, if you buy gallon cans, plan on using it all at once. If you get paint on the lip of the can and then you close it, you will NOT get it open again. It's stronger than superglue. Read and follow the directions carefully.
-Sarge

RE: Good undercoat

Hey Sarge, I have had success putting wax paper over the can before I put the lid back on. You can get it apart later, but if its alot later, the product dries and is not usable.

RE: Good undercoat

I just sprayed an antique tractor we had sandblasted with PPG epoxy primer and it worked great. It sprayed easy and covered great. On the sheet-metal parts I sprayed it with Rust Converter first and it did an excellent job. I prefer it to Ospho which I did try one time.

RE: Good undercoat

Was the sheet metal sand-blasted too? Rust Converter?? Who is it made by?

RE: Good undercoat

The sheet metal was sand-blasted. It still looked rust free but when I sprayed the rust converter the metal turned completly black. It only turns black if rust is present. You have to wash it before you paint over because it will not re-act if rust is not present. This material is whitesh in color and has to be washed off for paint to adhere. I will have to check who it is made by and post later.

RE: Good undercoat

The sheet metal was sand-blasted. It still looked rust free but when I sprayed the rust converter the metal turned completly black. It only turns black if rust is present. You have to wash it before you paint over because it will not re-act if rust is not present. This material is whitesh in color and has to be washed off for paint to adhere. I will have to check who it is made by and post late

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Sounds like CoraSeal.

Re: Good undercoat

Sarge said:

I can recommend POR15 products. .....................
I'm not sure, but I don't think you can spray it. Check the site, maybe you can.
-Sarge

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I have sprayed POR15, I used it to do the inside of the roof on my '68 GTX. I can't remember now if I thinned it with something or used a huge tip, but it worked great.

Otherwise, ditto to all of Sarge's comments. I like the POR15 product line and have used it on most of my Mopar's in one way or another.

RE: Re: Good undercoat

We use alot of matrix systems supplies, They have a good epoxy primer. What we usually do is use the black epoxy then go over the epoxy with a filler primer (2k) then we block it out and fix any imperfections. Then you can thin out the epoxy and use it as a sealer. The advantage of using it as a sealer is you can use less paint (if you plan on painting dark colors) and you will be painting over the same color and you won't have any of the blemishes ( which can happen if you have a couple light primer spots around dark colors).They do have a website www.matrixsystem.com

RE: Re: Good undercoat

I use a PPG epx-900 primer it's a two part product that very easy to work with.
p.s I'm useing CARC as a top coat.