Deuce 24 volt accessories power supply

If any of you have several 24 volt add on accessories in your truck, could you please post up how you supplied them with power. Did you tap into existing feeds, add a dedicated terminal block with either a breaker or fuses, just keeping tapping the #10 wire(I think)or any other method. Am looking for suggestions for a nice clean, safe method for installing mostly in cab accessories or outside spots. Most would be dedicated circuits, powered up individually, not hot when something else is turned on. Also, sometimes I see items powered with a two contact female connector(looks to be anyway) but have never seen the matching connector that it plugs into. Anyone know what I am talking about with pics? I'll see if I can come up with a pic also.
Thanks,
BC

The feed to the horn circuit breaker comes from the battery. I have several additional circuit breakers added from that same feed for some features, like the headlight by pass switch.
For the intercom and a point of load, 24 to 12 volt power supply (for the CB and a fuel temp gauge), I use the MX7777, which is shown in the image below. It has its own on/off switch.

Okay, adding to the horn circuit sounds like a good way. Loop on another breaker and then feed an item or two depending on draw. Breakers would mount on engine side of firewall. I have a MX-7777 installedl which I could use also. Could you please post a pic or reference to what you use as a point load 24 to 12 reducer.
Thanks,
BC

24 volt connector

Here is a pic of a 24 volt female power connector. Does anyone have one that has NSN on it or any identifiers. Would like to track down a pair or two.
Thanks,
BC
Photo courtesy of Austin Aviation.

GI issue inverter. Converts the 24V to 110V to run laptops.

Boatcarpenter said:

.....Could you please post a pic or reference to what you use as a point load 24 to 12 reducer.
Thanks,
BC

Click to expand...

Right, it's a "self issued" 35Watt 24 to 12 volt linear regulator, built from scrap parts. It is difficult to build them economically in small quantities, so if anybody wanted one, I'd have to charge $35 or so, it is fully encapsualted.
The input can vary from about 14 to 30 volts with a constant 12 volt output.

For the power connector in your next post, do a google search for "MS-connector" and look for suppliers.

The timing is pretty good I just finished this up last week.

I had an AN/VSS3 searchlight for the roof, the UH-48 heater, a remote spotlight, a center console with the comms, remote electric T&E for the M66 gun ring. So whaddya gonna do?

There's a guy on Ebay(right now) with $12 receptacles, so I went to town and welded up a metal box for 'em. A 24V power strip on steroids is what I ended up with, sits in the cab or wherever the slave cable gets it to.
There's another Ebay guy with brand new plug/cable assemblies($). The old 2 pin slave cable ones.

So anyway, there's a heavy cable assembly from the batteries that feeds the power strip in the cab. The rest of the 'accessories' plug into the hd 'power strip'. Using all Mil-Spec connectors.
The 12V converter and CB are in the 'jump seat' center console. (Still under construction)

Good grief, that's big! You know that each slave connector is rated 245 amps, right?

cranetruck,

Didn't know that. But on the other hand the slave socket price was right.
Besides, I just couldn't find it in myself to go with the second option... just too civilian.

Oh yeah, and not like it's ever gonna happen, but...

the next time I'm using the small Remote Control Spotlight, to find targets to illuminate with the AN/VSS3 Tank Searchlight, to get a bead on with the Remote Control M2HB T&E on the gun ring, while talking on the CB radio and heating up food in the electric MRE heater, all in the comfort of the UH-48 heated deuce cab... I'll be ready.

Jason, where did you find that inverter? Thats a must haver!

Really the invertor to mount

Here is the way I get 120V AC it is mounted under passenger seat it produces 2,000 watts of clean AC and charges the batteries when hooked into an AC cord at the house or campground.

RE: Really the invertor to mount

Bjorn, thank you. Very helpful as usual
readyman, you are absolutely correct, that is the mother of all power strips A little more robust than I had in mind and would take up a lot of space with the radio, intercom etc. already installed in the cab of the Deuce. But interesting set up and certainly will keep it in mind.
halftrack, nice unit, but at the moment I don't have any 110 volt items to run.
Thanks for the input guys, I love this site
BC

RE: Really the invertor to mount

a newby question about lighting how is best why to put a electric brake unit in a duece and convert 24 to 12 for my 12 volt trailers i would like to be able to power both systems

How did you wire that to the 24 volt plug?

cranetruck said:

Good grief, that's big! You know that each slave connector is rated 245 amps, right?

Click to expand...

Talk about overkill!

You could do something like this, one set is for 24 V other is 12V

AN/ARC186 said:

You could do something like this, one set is for 24 V other is 12V

Click to expand...

Those are neato-source?

I am adding some stuff to my A2C and I need to decide where to grab the 24V power for them (reverse lights, some flood lights for night ops, etc.).

Thanks for posting this thread, boatie!

let me take some pictures and scan my schematic for my relay board in my truck. I used IDEC relays mounted on DIN rail with each circuit on its own breaker. I have a master relay that comes off the main power switch, keeps me from killing the batteries. Then to actuate my relays i have a piece of series 2000 wire-mold with toggle switches in the side. I have 500 feet of 18/2 control cable and 500 feet of 12/2 circuit wire and 10 feet of 2/0 feeder cable in my system. I am adding a 12 volt alternator this spring for my 12 volt loads.

Parky, I believe you can make the sparks fly with that setup.