CUCV Ambulance advice

b-rad · May 23, 2005

I'm new to this forum and exctied to find it. I am in the process of purchasing a cucv ambulance. I had a few questions I hoped could be answered.
Right now the thing dosn't hold a charge. Is the easiest fix to just take out the 24v system and repalce it with a 12V?

I plan to convert it to a camper, are they reliable on long trips, say cross country?

It only has 13000 original miles and the body is imaculate. Other than the charging problem it runs great. It sounds like a good buy to me.

Desert Rat · May 23, 2005

B-Rad,
Could you please include your city and state in your signature. Just go to the control panel the look for the signature box and type in the info. If you need any help let us know and we'll walk you through the process. Thanks!

P.S. - It's better to keep everything 24V on those trucks. They were built that way for many reasons. Sounds like a really good deal to me too.

85-m1028 · May 23, 2005

Desert Rat said:
B-Rad,
Could you please include your city and state in your signature. Just go to the control panel the look for the signature box and type in the info. If you need any help let us know and we'll walk you through the process. Thanks!

P.S. - It's better to keep everything 24V on those trucks. They were built that way for many reasons. Sounds like a really good deal to me too.

Desert Rat,
I hope your just talking about the abulance being better with 24volt sytem otherwise please tell me the reason why you think its better, I need to hear this!! :tongue:

Desert Rat · May 24, 2005

Guys,
The 24V system is more forgiving and the truck is wired this way. The 24V system is more durable in the field. It's also been waterproofed so moisture is not a problem. I can go on and on and on................

CUCVFAN · May 24, 2005

b-rad said:
I'm new to this forum and exctied to find it. I am in the process of purchasing a cucv ambulance. I had a few questions I hoped could be answered.
Right now the thing dosn't hold a charge. Is the easiest fix to just take out the 24v system and repalce it with a 12V?

I plan to convert it to a camper, are they reliable on long trips, say cross country?

It only has 13000 original miles and the body is imaculate. Other than the charging problem it runs great. It sounds like a good buy to me.

I would say you should first figure out if the problem is that the alternators are not charging, or if it is the "classic" M1010 charging system issue. To be sure, you will need a pair of good, fully charged batteries and a voltmeter. Basically, to fix the problem, switch the orange and red wires on the DUVAC box on the inside of the left front fender. This will run the top alternator in 12V mode all of the time, so you will no longer get 200 amps of 24V power. You will still have 100 amps of 24V from the lower alternator and about 70 amps of 12V power from the top alternator. Additionally, never, never leave the master power switch on for several days without running the truck. I was not able to pinpoint the drain before I sold my truck, but there is a 12V drain somewhere, and it will kill the front battery. If you drain the front, charge it up fully before starting the truck. Otherwise, the rear battery will overcharge the entire time that the front battery is getting fully charged by the truck's top alternator.

Here's the boring details of the charging system problem for those who care:

http://www.toadmail.com/~cucvfan/200AmpCharge.html

I would not be too concerned with the reliability of these trucks on a long trip, because if they are maintained well, they last a long time and have no different problems than their civilian equivalent. However, 4.56 gears and the lack of over-drive will certainly make you think twice about driving accross the country, unless you have plenty of time (and hearing protection) or, if you like running your engines flat-out on the governor all the time.

Although you did not mention price, it sounds like a decent truck. Go for it!

b-rad · May 25, 2005

The guy wants 2000 so it sounds like a good deal. Has any one done anything about the cab noise? Is there such thing as a firewall sound deadener

mangus580 · May 25, 2005

2000? Whats the Catch?

Westech · May 26, 2005

hey I got my m1009 for $1600. there are good deals to be had.....

CUCVFAN · May 26, 2005

b-rad said:
The guy wants 2000 so it sounds like a good deal. Has any one done anything about the cab noise? Is there such thing as a firewall sound deadener

That's a pretty good price. These trucks came with a factory installed rubber floor mat (insulated on the back) that helped with some of the noise, but most were removed to keep them from holding moisture and rusting out the floors. It is the same as any civilian truck would have had from the same era (my old '84 K10 and current '88 V30 both have them). There was no underhood mat, but you could easily add one, again froma a civilian application if you wanted.

b-rad · May 26, 2005

mangus580 said:
2000? Whats the Catch?

there is no catch. The guy got it for like 300 bucks from a local fire department and never got around to fixing the electrical system. I am willing to take on the challenge. If I had to replace both alternators what kind of dough should I expect to pay?

CUCVFAN · May 27, 2005

b-rad said:
mangus580 said:

2000? Whats the Catch?

Click to expand...

there is no catch. The guy got it for like 300 bucks from a local fire department and never got around to fixing the electrical system. I am willing to take on the challenge. If I had to replace both alternators what kind of dough should I expect to pay?

A bunch, if you try to get new ones. There were a couple on eBay in recent weeks for about $100 each and theres one on there now with a starting bid of $65 (item #455268805.

mangus580 · May 27, 2005

It would still be worth it though. You could also (ducking here) convert it to 12v and be alot cheaper. Its also possible that you could make it the normal cucv 24v system, which might still be cheaper than the ambulance version.

b-rad · May 27, 2005

I don't mind turning it into 12V, i'm not looking to restore a military vehicle I just think it will be a sick off road camper. I do a ton of mountian biking and wanted a vechicle to take into the woods and be able to pull over and camp. I suppose people don't want to hear I am going to convert the engine to greasil.

Opie · May 27, 2005

b-rad;

Welcome, and lots of here are looking at alternative fuels for our trucks!

85-m1028 · May 27, 2005

first off if your thinking of traveling with this truck then I can tell you that you'll need to do something about the top speed! 4.56 gears and 32" tires will be winding the engine up even at 55 and the result will be poor fuel economy. secondly being broke down on the road without the proper military 24V replacement parts can put you in a pickle, I know that the only truly 24v component on the m1008/ 9/ is the starter every thing else is 12v running lights etc. the glow plugs get juice from the 24v side but it ends up being about 18v after the dropping resistor mounted on the firewall the controller card and operation of the glow plugs is military specific. my guess is if there is something wrong with the 24v charging system it may take some trial and error to find the problem and murphy's law says it will strike when you're far from home just when you think you got the bugs worked out, I'm not trying to be negative I'm just saying try and be prepeared, look into what else is 24 volt in the back like over head lights, heater, particulate filter and weigh the pros and cons of 24v vs. 12v http://www.cucv.us/ look here for info on 12v conversion, also with the gearing I'd look into getting a turbo set up and runnning some taller gears 4.11 ratio if you're sticking with the 32" tall pizza cutter tires, the turbo will help regain some grunt or pulling power, it must feel like a turtle with that camper back there!! :tongue:

Michael · May 29, 2005

I have had a M1010 for over 5 years. I got it direct form the government and it wasn't charging properly when I got it. I finally got it sort of working by going through the trouble shooting in the TM's. You can get them online for free. Be sure to start with the -20 and then work up to the -30.

I don't drive it much. It will do 55 to 65 without too much trouble and will get 18 to 20 mpg. It is really wound out on the highway and it is loud. Mine still had the rubber floor mat which I removed and did find some rust under it.

The AC in the back works of of 24 and 12 volts.

$2000 is cheep for a complete running truck. I would value it at between $35 to 4500 depending on how it looks.

Mike
Tishomingo, MS

mangus580 · May 29, 2005

Michael, Like I said before when he said the price, whats the catch? [

]

Michael · May 29, 2005

I forgot to mention that my wife drove the truck home from the DRMO in Montgomery AL. It was about 250 miles. She still complines about how hot it was (it was about 100 degrees that day).

I have about finished my M1009. I am amazed at how much better it is to drive on the highway. It still is hot though.

b-rad · May 30, 2005

the only catch is the charging system and a few other incedentals. I fully checked the whole thing over. I can't find one drop of rust.

Desert Rat · May 30, 2005

B-Rad,
Where in New Hampster are you? Near Tilton/Laconia?

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