MEP-005A Tech Manual

Looking for a Tech Manual for the 30KW genset.

I am trying to diagnose some electrical issues.

Thanks,

Warthog

**** Update ****

Located in the Generator Tech Manual forum

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77624-TM-s-for-Generators

I've got one. I don't intend to let it go but, let me check the "Resources" section. If there isn't one there, I'll put it in the document feeder, digitize it, and fly it over to MANGUS to post it up.

If you need something specific and can point me in the right direction, toss me and I'll try to get it to you tomorrow.

Lance

I used to work on MEPs in the Air Force, what is the set doing? Maybe I can help.

Later,
Joe

Gentlemen: I have an MEP005, It was manufactured in 1985. I need a maintenance manual. Can someone help me, please.

gdg111 said:

Gentlemen: I have an MEP005, It was manufactured in 1985. I need a maintenance manual. Can someone help me, please.

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Did the link in the first post not work for you? The manual is there. I just checked.

Thank-you sir. I see the manuals but need to know which one is for the maintenance. Thank-you for helping me

gdg111 said:

Thank-you sir. I see the manuals but need to know which one is for the maintenance. Thank-you for helping me

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Save them all to your hard drive. If you don't you will eventually need the specific information in the manual you did not save and have to hunt the collection down again...

gdg111 said:

Thank-you sir. I see the manuals but need to know which one is for the maintenance. Thank-you for helping me

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+1 on downloading the full set.

What kind of maintenance are you doing? If you take a quick look at the manuals the cover pages will point you in the right direction.

Thank-you sir. Oil and fuel filters

all the manuals needed to work on the MEP-005A are in the SS TM forum. The first place you should look for a power generation TM is here in the TM forum.

gdg111 said:

Thank-you sir. Oil and fuel filters

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I use NAPA Gold # 1004 (or equal) for the oil filter. Canister on low side of engine opposite starter side (and on same side as fuel filters). Single bolt holds down lid, 3/4" hex head. Remove bolt and lid and pull old filter. IIRC there's a 1/8" NPT brass plug that can be loosened to drain the housing as found on MEP-002A & MEP-003A units but I'm not certain-out of state a few days and away from shop. If not just get a suction rig & pull out the old oil from the housing and wipe out with clean rags. Pay attention to washers and spring and how they're installed. Don't mix up the orientation or location of these parts. If you get mixed refer to tech manual or see instruction sheet that comes with the NAPA filter. Install new filter into housing and gasket on underside of housing lid. (Clean lid thoroughly before installing new gasket.) Make sure gasket is correctly positioned & apply clean 15/40 oil to contact surfaces, then install retaining bolt through the lid & tighten. I don't have torque reading handy but I'd guess 35-40 foot pounds. maybe a little higher. These will leak if not tightened enough but don't over tighten either! You didn't ask about draining the oil pan so I won't address that, but it's self explanatory once you see the arrangement.

The first (and smaller height) fuel filter is a cleanable strainer assembly. Loosen acorn nut at the bottom and then remove the housing. It will likely be rusty and nasty but clean it out as needed (if rusty I soak overnight or a couple days in white vinegar to remove the rust.) The strainer plates can be cleaned with WM brake cleaner or carb cleaner, then blow out with compressed air. Remove & replace o-ring at the top. When housing is clean & dry apply 15/40 oil to oil surfaces and top of housing area that mates with the o-ring, then install housing and tighten acorn nut.

For the primary fuel filter I use 10 micron NAPA Gold 3512 (or equal). Loosen top bolt and remove housing (5/8" hex IIRC). Have something underneath to catch residual fuel. Clean out housing internal surfaces. Remove and install o-ring inside groove on top mounting plate. Apply clean 15/40 oil to o-ring & top of filter housing. Install new filter into housing and align filter housing to bolt at the top & tighten by hand until the housing makes contact with the o-ring. Then use wrench to tighten.

For the secondary filter I use 6 micron NAPA Gold 3540 (or equal). Follow same steps as above for removal & reinstall of new filter.

Once filters are installed then you need to bleed the system. After system is properly bled all the way to and through the injectors then start up the engine at governed speed and immediately check for oil leaks.(If not installed properly, the oil filter gasket can dump a lot of oil in a few seconds so always check this location first.) Then check for any fuel leaks at each of the three housings and tighten as necessary to stop leaks. If leaks don't stop with further tightening you probably have an o-ring or gasket off position or damaged.

As others have said, read and read again the tech manuals, first the operator's manual then the depot maintenance manual for more in-depth work.

Keep in mind, that the mep-004a and 005a are very similar. So if you ever need parts, or your 005a manual isn't readable due to being a million years old, you can use the 004a TM's for most things. Schematic is the same.

Its easy to to get that oil filter gasket a little wrong, so if you do, 1800 Diesel's warning about it losing oil is something to really watch for!

He who reads the TM's has the power.

1800 Diesel said:

I use NAPA Gold # 1004 (or equal) for the oil filter. Canister on low side of engine opposite starter side (and on same side as fuel filters). Single bolt holds down lid, 3/4" hex head. Remove bolt and lid and pull old filter. IIRC there's a 1/8" NPT brass plug that can be loosened to drain the housing as found on MEP-002A & MEP-003A units but I'm not certain-out of state a few days and away from shop. If not just get a suction rig & pull out the old oil from the housing and wipe out with clean rags. Pay attention to washers and spring and how they're installed. Don't mix up the orientation or location of these parts. If you get mixed refer to tech manual or see instruction sheet that comes with the NAPA filter. Install new filter into housing and gasket on underside of housing lid. (Clean lid thoroughly before installing new gasket.) Make sure gasket is correctly positioned & apply clean 15/40 oil to contact surfaces, then install retaining bolt through the lid & tighten. I don't have torque reading handy but I'd guess 35-40 foot pounds. maybe a little higher. These will leak if not tightened enough but don't over tighten either! You didn't ask about draining the oil pan so I won't address that, but it's self explanatory once you see the arrangement.

The first (and smaller height) fuel filter is a cleanable strainer assembly. Loosen acorn nut at the bottom and then remove the housing. It will likely be rusty and nasty but clean it out as needed (if rusty I soak overnight or a couple days in white vinegar to remove the rust.) The strainer plates can be cleaned with WM brake cleaner or carb cleaner, then blow out with compressed air. Remove & replace o-ring at the top. When housing is clean & dry apply 15/40 oil to oil surfaces and top of housing area that mates with the o-ring, then install housing and tighten acorn nut.

For the primary fuel filter I use 10 micron NAPA Gold 3512 (or equal). Loosen top bolt and remove housing (5/8" hex IIRC). Have something underneath to catch residual fuel. Clean out housing internal surfaces. Remove and install o-ring inside groove on top mounting plate. Apply clean 15/40 oil to o-ring & top of filter housing. Install new filter into housing and align filter housing to bolt at the top & tighten by hand until the housing makes contact with the o-ring. Then use wrench to tighten.

For the secondary filter I use 6 micron NAPA Gold 3540 (or equal). Follow same steps as above for removal & reinstall of new filter.

Once filters are installed then you need to bleed the system. After system is properly bled all the way to and through the injectors then start up the engine at governed speed and immediately check for oil leaks (this location can dump a lot of oil in a few seconds so always check this location first) and then check for any fuel leaks at each of the three housings and tighten as necessary to stop leaks. If leaks don't stop with further tightening you probably have an o-ring or gasket off position or damaged.

As others have said, read and read again the tech manuals, first the operator's manual then the depot maintenance manual for more in-depth work.

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Thank-you very much. I changed the oil, oil filter and changed (2) of the fuel filters but I did not mess with the smallest filter because I did not have a new gasket. Do you think that is OK? What size gasket would I need? I did not see any leaks. So far, so good. I appreciate all of the help. You men are very knowledgeable. - douglas

gdg111 said:

Thank-you very much. I changed the oil, oil filter and changed (2) of the fuel filters but I did not mess with the smallest filter because I did not have a new gasket. Do you think that is OK? What size gasket would I need? I did not see any leaks. So far, so good. I appreciate all of the help. You men are very knowledgeable. - douglas

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Do not run the unit until you remove the fuel strainer housing and do a thorough cleaning! Often you can get away with re-using the existing o-ring, depending on when it was last changed. Older ones will dry rot and crack and eventually will leak. Also (and I'm not certain here), maybe the o-rings for the other two filter housings are the same size and possibly in re-usable condition.

You should at least remove the housing, clean it and re-install using an existing/removed o-ring. Usually you'll find most of the entrapped water in the strainer housing along with lots of rusty crud. The strainer plates are cres so they won't be rusted but could have rust stains. Again--don't prime or run the unit until the strainer assembly has been properly serviced. If you ignore this step it's possible that a clogged strainer could stop or hinder fuel flow through the primary and secondary filters; in the least, it will pass some of the crud/water downstream into the new filters.

1800 Diesel said:

Do not run the unit until you remove the fuel strainer housing and do a thorough cleaning! Often you can get away with re-using the existing o-ring, depending on when it was last changed. Older ones will dry rot and crack and eventually will leak. Also (and I'm not certain here), maybe the o-rings for the other two filter housings are the same size and possibly in re-usable condition.
You should at least remove the housing, clean it and re-install using an existing/removed o-ring. Usually you'll find most of the entrapped water in the strainer housing along with lots of rusty crud. The strainer plates are cres so they won't be rusted but could have rust stains. Again--don't prime or run the unit until the strainer assembly has been properly serviced. If you ignore this step it's possible that a clogged strainer could stop or hinder fuel flow through the primary and secondary filters; in the least, it will pass some of the crud/water downstream into the new filters.

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Sir, thank-you again. I did drain the filter from the bottom and there was no water. When I changed the the fuel filters the second one, right next to the one I did not clean was very, very clean and the 3rd one which I think is the primary was very dirty. I cleaned the housing out very well on the 3rd filter and changed the filters on the 2nd and 3rd. Do you think that with the filter right next to the one I did not clean being very, very clean and just the primary being the dirty one that I may be OK with not taking the smaller one apart? I am only asking because I am not very mechanically inclined and I had a mechanic that I paid to help me and I don't want to have to have him over again.
Sir, thank-you again. I did drain the filter from the bottom and there was no water. When I changed the the fuel filters the second right next to the one I did not clean was very, very clean and the 3rd one which I think is the primary was very dirty. I cleaned the housing out very well on the 3rd filter and changed the filters on the 2nd and 3rd. Do you think that with the

gdg111 said:

Sir, thank-you again. I did drain the filter from the bottom and there was no water. When I changed the the fuel filters the second one, right next to the one I did not clean was very, very clean and the 3rd one which I think is the primary was very dirty. I cleaned the housing out very well on the 3rd filter and changed the filters on the 2nd and 3rd. Do you think that with the filter right next to the one I did not clean being very, very clean and just the primary being the dirty one that I may be OK with not taking the smaller one apart? I am only asking because I am not very mechanically inclined and I had a mechanic that I paid to help me and I don't want to have to have him over again.
Sir, thank-you again. I did drain the filter from the bottom and there was no water. When I changed the the fuel filters the second right next to the one I did not clean was very, very clean and the 3rd one which I think is the primary was very dirty. I cleaned the housing out very well on the 3rd filter and changed the filters on the 2nd and 3rd. Do you think that with the

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I apologize, but my reply was cut short. I respect what you are telling me, but I have already run the unit since I did what I did and was hoping that since the second filter was clean and just the primary dirty that possibly the small filter was OK.

gdg111 said:

I apologize, but my reply was cut short. I respect what you are telling me, but I have already run the unit since I did what I did and was hoping that since the second filter was clean and just the primary dirty that possibly the small filter was OK.

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Shouldn't be any harm since the primary & secondary will catch any trash coming from the strainer. The only risk is the possibility of fuel starving during a load test or extended run in service. The other risk or result is early clogging of your filters but you should be good for many hours unless your fuel tank is full of crud, then you'll need to do a thorough tank cleaning. Just drain the (3) filter housing petcocks into a glass jar whenever you run the unit so you can discover and drain any water coming from the tank.

gdg111 said:

...... I am only asking because I am not very mechanically inclined and I had a mechanic that I paid to help me and I don't want to have to have him over again....

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Forgot to mention that the fuel strainer housing is secured by a single 1/2" acorn nut at the bottom. Loosen this nut and bump the housing with a rubber hammer and it will break loose and drop. Only problem is that you'll need to re-bleed the system up to the injection pump anyway to clear out any air.

Guyfang said:

Keep in mind, that the mep-004a and 005a are very similar. So if you ever need parts, or your 005a manual isn't readable due to being a million years old, you can use the 004a TM's for most things. Schematic is the same.

Its easy to to get that oil filter gasket a little wrong, so if you do, 1800 Diesel's warning about it losing oil is something to really watch for!

He who reads the TM's has the power.

Click to expand...

Guyfang--glad you mentioned this. The filter info I provided was actually from what I've been using on MEP-004A units but I checked the NSNs in both TMs for the 004A & the 005A & the same NSNs were listed for both units, though different numbers for primary & secondary filters. I did find an oddball filter NSN for one of the units but I didn't have time to chase that down.

Also I've heard/read of folks using the same filter for both primary & secondary side but I like to use the 10 micron on primary and the 6 micron on secondary. Also once I complete all pre-start work on a generator, I always mix in algaecide, TCW III O/B motor oil and diesel-kleen to the fuel tank prior to fill-up for best mixing.