Painting engine area

before I install the new engine I want to paint it and the engine compartment
plus the fenders but I need to know what kind of paint for the engine
I can get 383green matched locally but I dont have a clue what line
of paint(from PPG or DuPont) to use any help would be great paint's going
on in one or two weeks.

Jed, most of the trucks we've had were the base color be it green 383, o.d., or whatever else. Usual practice was/is to lay down the green then shoot the brown or black over it. Gives a more complete coat without chance of gaps between colors. As to what brand... whatever you have access to. We have Aervoe out here and used it in gallons or spray cans 'til CARC came along. Hope this helps.

no what I mean(I cant write) is what line from PPG or DuPont(there's to many for me to figure it out) can I use to paint
the engine fender's and front frame area and can I paint with CARC in 50deg weather.

I'd buy Gillespie paint from Rapco in Texas. It is closer to the "real deal" than paint from PPG or DuPo, cheaper, and reduces with Xylene. It is tougher than stone when dry and comes in absolutely the right colors. A case of 4 gallons is less than $100 IMHO.

Why have expensive stuff matched and go through all the hassle of exotic reducers, hardners, and drying agents when the finished product is either flat or semi-gloss anyway?

CARC is really toxic to deal with, and very damaging environmentally. It liberates the same stuff that killed all the people in India, methyl isocyanate. The only reason to use it is if you are going to be gassed and need to decontaminate the surfaces, as it won't absorb anything.

PS..Gillespie also makes paint for Uncle Sam.

dg

I love the Gillespie stuff. I took advice from George Baker when I painted the old M35A2. It was the first time I ever painted anything and it came out great. George suggested thinning with mineral spirits to keep the wet edge wet longer her in the FL heat. It worked absolutey perfectly.

maybe I'll try the Gillespie on the engine and Fenders see how it looks, The reason
I wanted to use a Polyurethane paint is the superior moisture resistance.

Jed, you won;t be dissapointed and your pocket book won't be either.

Friend Kenny,

Mineral spirits is a rather ambiguous formula of hydrocarbons. It will vary from location to location, and will definately cause premature oxidation in sunlight. Xylene flashes off slower than MS, and is formulated unformly throughout the world. It works great in really hot areas to prevent orange peeling, and straight toulene is good in colder weather to prevent runs.

For Jed, "moisture resistence", the top coat doesnt mean diddly if the primer is porus. If you use REAL red oxide primer (not the brown stuff) to treat bare steel, it will be a long time rusting. It is not expensive. Take a look at most of the vintage spare parts put up by the Army...they were finished in red oxide. Years without a green coat, and no rust.

BTW, I've had rotten luck with Rustoleum RO. Overrated and hard to spray. Gillespie also markets real red oxide primer for a very good price.

dg

G744 I'm useing Gillespie's red oxide zinc phosphate primer then a under coat of epoxy primer and then two top coat's
that sound right? and is it ok to apply the red oxide primer to paint thats really on or should I sand blast
it all off I would like to avoid sandblasting the whole truck do to time and money constants.

Jed, If you have good, solid paint then it's doing it's job and doesn't need to be removed. Just scuff sand to get rid of any loose or flaking stuff and to provide a "tooth" for the subsequent coat(s) to grab onto.

Alright, Xylene it is!

Jones said:

Jed, If you have good, solid paint then it's doing it's job and doesn't need to be removed. Just scuff sand to get rid of any loose or flaking stuff and to provide a "tooth" for the subsequent coat(s) to grab onto.

Click to expand...

cool thanks.

Good paint paints over fine. Is that correct grammer? Anyways, as mentioned, sanding a bit is all you need.

From a guy who has spent altogether too many hours under a sandblast hood...
DG

Xylene is very toxic, keep that in mind. I use a lot of really nasty, exotic, solvents in my line of work. Xylene and Toluene are pretty nasty. They also tend to annoy the neighbors with the smell.
Mineral spirits work fine with alkyd enamels. If you are using an acrylic, or some other synthetic resin, follow the manufacturers recommendations.
I agree with the comment on using a good red oxide primer. I use Sherwin Williams primer and have no complaints.

Aervoe specifically states to thin with xylene.....

An old collector steered me to mineral spirits when I laid my first coat of Gillespie a few years back. He was quite confident in his advice and I took it. Its worked beautifully for me everytime. I was going to switch to xylene but why, what I'm using is working perfectly. I'll keep using mineral sprirts!