Head Gasket Replacement

Well, I found some oil in the coolant and have been running the Duce as a daily driver waiting for the next thing to break. I guess this is it, or the biggest on the list for that matter.

I ordered gaskets from Memphis Equipment.

Today I got her tore down. See the pictures....

The fourth picture is a drain on the rear-right side of the block to drain the coolant.

Rut

Its always handy to have some El Cheapo wrenches on hand to grind on and bend when you need to. I will have to buy a boxed foot to torque these bolts.
Anyone with a suggestion would be great.

Later,
Rut

BTW: Consumables required to get this far: One large Pizza and 6 pack of Bud Light. These were not supplied in the kit from Memphis Equip.

more likely cause of oil in coolant is oil cooler. have you found a positively bad spot in gasket?

I would take that oil cooler out if not already done. Mine was 1/2 full of a stuff I have not been able to identify yet, and really nasty. There are two o rings that seal it to the coolant supply and mine turned to dust when I removed it. If you got the engine set you should have every seal and gasket to do the engine. take your time and do it right!

Great pictures, Rut, thanks for sharing! Keep them coming!
Do these heads generally need a resurfacing prior to re-installation or is this unnecessary because of the split design (=less warping)?

Mark

When I rebuilt the top half of my Multi i had the heads shaved. one was .002 out and the other .004. I think .004 is the max for the multi but I had it done and it worked fine. I would think .002 is not much but with 22-1 ratio I would sure want to make sure all was square before I bolted it all back together.

don't forget to replace all the soft fuel lines while you are at it.

tom

I will check the cooler also. I had oil and coolant leaks at the head gasket that were visible so it needed replacing. I only got the head gasket kit from Memphis not the entire engine set. bummer!

Went to town looking for heater hose couldn't find any. Goin to try Car Quest in the morning.

I am also trying to figure out how to torque a couple of these nuts when going back together. Guess I'm going to have to hit the Snap On/Matco guys.

Thanks for the Replies and Ideas!

Rut

fulleraviation said:

I am also trying to figure out how to torque a couple of these nuts when going back together. Guess I'm going to have to hit the Snap On/Matco guys.


Rut

Click to expand...

There is a special wrench for those driver side lower cylinder heat nuts on the multi fuel. There is a discussion on this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/11295-all-freeze-plug.html

and a link within that thread to another one where the wrenches are specifically discussed.

Thanks Clinto.. Good Thread. I had already read it a few weeks ago, but reading it now has much more meaning.

Funny, I have a set of Lycoming cylinder base wrenches in the box.. Cant remember if the larger wrench is 7/8" or not. If not, I have a welder and some sacrifice wrenches. Thank you Harbour Freight!

Looks like a good idea to hit the freeze plugs while I am at it. I hope I can find them locally and on Sat.

If I order an entire gasket set, does it come with new plugs? Looks like I will have to order anyhow because of the oil cooler.

fulleraviation said:

If I order an entire gasket set, does it come with new plugs? Looks like I will have to order anyhow because of the oil cooler.

Click to expand...

Nope. I bought a complete multi gasket set and had to get plugs separate.

Thanks... Looks like Advance has some in stock.

BTW. I don't have a hoist or helpers! THOSE HEADS ARE HEAVY LET ME TELL YOU! It would be hell if they are a 1 piece!

You do not need a heater in FL Remove it box it up ship it to Maine.

Finished the project this morning and just got back from the test drive. All went well. Now waiting for the next thing to break. After she cools, I will check the coolant. Just put in water for the test. Hopefully no oil. If so, will open up the oil cooler.

Had to adjust the valves by myself. I used some dial calipers to measure the rise of the push rod. Full open is just under 1.5 inches measuring at the top of the push rod to the top of the head where the rocker cover gasket rests. Had to climb under the truck several times, but she's good now.

Below are some photos of the wrench and extentions that I had to modify to torque the head. What a pain in the you know what! Had to reweld no less than 4 times. Once I got good welds other stuff started breaking, like 3/8" extensions. 156 or 157 foot pounds, cant remember which now, but that is quite a bit of torque.

The 2 step valve adjustment in the TM worked great. I took Johns advice somewhat from another post. Intake a very tight .015, but a good .013. Exhaust set to .025

Later,
Rut

fine work right there looks good as new .

Looks good!

I worked offshore for many years and had several engines that had oil in the block. This is what we did after repairing oil coolers or changing heads or an inframe:

flush system with water, drain (this will get most of the crud out)
add Cascade to the system and let the engine run for 30 minutes, drain
flush system with water, drain
refill engine and run run run

the cascade will not foam up and we used 1 case of cascade per engine, 16 and 20 cylinder EMD engines. each engine cooling system held 160 gallons of coolant so i recon you could use 1/4 or 1/2 box...just make sure you mix the cascade with COLD water before adding to engine otherwise it clumps up and you have a mess to deal with.

there might be something else to use but this was cheap and worked every time. EMD, CAT, GM, and all the majors have no problem with using Cascade as it does not eat up the seals, etc.

have fun!

Good to see you got her back together! I was wondering what kind of job it was to change spit out gaskets...

I used to know an old timer that would set an old oil tank cut in half over a fire, fill it with water and cascade and boil nasty greasy parts. He called it the poor man's hot tank. Man, those parts did come out clean!

dan

does any one have the info, since the TM doesn't but the torquing sequence for the heads and valve covers on this truck im planing on doing mine this weekend

Here Ya go. Torque sequence is the lower right. Got it from TM 9-2320-361-34, sec 3-3, pg 3-7