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pressurewasher sandblaster attachment

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
since I have a lot of nasty paint/ rust removal in my future and I don't have an aircompressor capable of pushing a serious sandblaster I thought I would give this a try

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...uctDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=8520&R=8520
on the battery box from my deuce
before...

after (actually just had a few minutes of daylight so just started)

I had to use wet sand, so I had to stir the sand with the pickup for it to work. (I'll get some dry sand tomorrow & see if I can just leave the pickup in the bucket)

BTW: You can still see the occasional spark even with water hitting the metak at high pressure :) :shock:
 

Dieselsmoke

New member
1,146
2
0
Location
CA/NV
A buddy of mine used one and it worked quite well. I forget what he used on the bare metal afterwards to keep it from flash rusting.
 

rdixiemiller

Active member
1,760
3
38
Location
Olive Branch Mississipi
Those pressure washer sandblaster setups work fairly well. They are definately less dusty than straight sand blasting!
Get some Ospho, or metal prep. Look for a phosphoric acid based solution. The Phosphoric acid will convert the surface to iron phosphate, which is quite rust resistant. After everything is dry, you can spray on a good coat of red oxide primer, I use Sherwin Williams brand. That should hold things until you get a top coat on the truck.
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
In the old days (early 70's) we would use aluminum storm door cleaner on bare metal right after it was stripped. Basically its just a acid based solution as mentioned. It worked well in the high humidity area I lived in (Chicago) :wink:
 

rmgill

Active member
2,479
14
38
Location
Decatur, Ga
I use a siphon feed blaster with Dupont Star blast. It's very fine and almost powdery and feeds very well in a siphon blaster. There's also next to zero silica in the star-blast media which helps keep you from getting silicosis. After blasting, I blow it off with a bit more air, then shoot it with a primer sealer out of a rattle can.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
BFR said:
since I have a lot of nasty paint/ rust removal in my future and I don't have an aircompressor capable of pushing a serious sandblaster I thought I would give this a try

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...uctDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=8520&R=8520
on the battery box from my deuce
before...

after (actually just had a few minutes of daylight so just started)

I had to use wet sand, so I had to stir the sand with the pickup for it to work. (I'll get some dry sand tomorrow & see if I can just leave the pickup in the bucket)

BTW: You can still see the occasional spark even with water hitting the metak at high pressure :) :shock:
Here is what I ended up with after 1 hour & 200lbs of sand.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
definately a lot of sand, but I can do it with the tools I have & sand is cheap.
BTW:
I used a fine grain sand today next run I'll try "play sand"
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
Wish I could say sand was "cheap" I'm paying $9.00 per 90lb bag of 70 grit, same price for the 30 grit :( I try to recycle my sand when I can so that helps a little :wink:
 

SixBuy

New member
226
1
0
Location
Dallas/Texas
The pickleX looks interesting but gets pricey in a hurry! The phosphoric acid based metal conditioners are much cheaper and work well if you follow directions and rinse. Also you can buy them at most auto paint supply houses too. About $7.50/pint which dilutes 5 to 1 with water.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,331
43
48
Location
North Georgia
just out of curiosity... do you guys think it is worth it to go all the way to bright metal?

I'm currently planning on using this to remove scale and peeling paint, then prime & repaint. Any thoughts?
 
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