Cant read the wiring diagram, should be simple right??

can someone please list the colors of wires and location of wires on glow plug relay. I'm running 109(napa cheap model) relay and I have a wait light but no 12V on bottom post of relay. On third new relay now and still no (click)..Help The weather is cold now.....I need warm plugs

That relay needs to have an isolated relay coil(no connection to ground). I am not familiar with a 109 relay. need more info! If you are installing the wrong relay, you will burn out your GPs and or your controller card.

I know there are pictures posted and a recent thread covering this same topic.

The wire colors are labeled in the schematic, Look at Figure F-7 in TM 9-2320-289-20

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/41546-glow-relay.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/28290-m1008-resistor.html

thank you

the napa relay i'm running is in the faq section of this site....cheap version of the usable models! It is simple what I need... a working example listed in english, not TM jibberish. The manuals do give you an idea of how stuff goes, but are ridiculous compared to real schmatics... I just wanna do it right. I am told to go to gas but i'm trying to save this truck!!

napa couldn't tell me if it has an isolated relay coil...so I will have to trust that the info in the faq section of this forum is accurate. I am also curious about the thread indicating the small orange wire on relay needing to be placed on opposite big post (lower one) (diagram is wrong). Can anyone substantiate this claim? I am using TM 9-2320-289-34 and I will look at -20

Top big post and both small posts have 12.5v...is that right with key on? Oh ya, and the buzzer that sounds when you turn the key on no longer makes noise...seems to be related as I have been told it is to warn you to wait to start... is that right? I have to assume that the glow plugs worked this way for the last 10 days because the truck would start and I could hear the 2 clicks like normal. On the other hand it was 60s and 70s last week and all of the sudden it's down to 15-20 at night and 35-40 during the day....is it possible they never worked and I was just lucky while it was warm outside...I really dont know what to make of all this, i've only owned the truck like 2 weeks and it is not even liscensed yet because it wont run long enough to get to DMV. just read the link that talked about 24v at relay and dont know what to make of that either... last week it tested the same as now at 12.5 but it ran. All wiring seems to be accurate according to TM -34 (glow plug circuits all except m1010) oh ya, since I have had the truck it has had a constant drain from battery so I would unhook when not messin with it, thats probably related aswell. everything works in truck though, since both alternators were replaced...until this. Thanks again to ALL, i'm gonna go mess with it for a while.

Use an ohm meter to confirm it is isolated. if you have doubts.

I'm confused, your truck was starting just fine, so you changed the relay?(why)

The 6.2 will not start at 60-70F without working glow plugs(cold engine).

The orange wire is a voltage sensing wire that goes to the controller card. It needs to be on the big stud that connects to all of the glow plugs(output side).

Is your engine cold, when measuring the voltages?

Have you read the cucv wiki? I think all this is explained there.

The buzzer is for the seatbelts, not the glow plugs. It is a timer also.

I changed relay because it didn't click and truck didn't start, it was the first time it didn't click so I messed with it and figured it probably went bad.

Yes, the engine is cold when measuring voltages, but because the solenoid doesn't (click) I have no voltage to GP.

orange wire was on incorrect post...input side, but was that way when I bought the truck.

location of wire has been corrected to output side....but obviously isn't getting any voltage.
now the 2 big orange wires are on the same post as the small orange one

Does it need to (sense)no voltage? Or should it sense the voltage when relay clicks
Does it matter if I switch small wires on there posts....i checked and the posts have continuity(zero ohms of resistence)...without wires hooked up

what is the timer function of the buzzer for, it still doesn't work either

i'll read the wiki...i'm pretty sure i did when i first joined this sight but maybe it'll help

DOGHEAD YOU DA MAN... thanks

oh ya, one time a couple days ago when trying to start truck, the wait light did not illuminate until I cycled the key a few times and then it lit up, and truck did start

Ok, do you have 12V on the pink/black wire for the glow plug relay?

If not, you can test the relay by putting 12V to that post and then grounding the light blue post.

There is a plug under the dash near the column that must be plugged in to supply the card with 12V from the ignition. It is a 6 pin square plug with four wires in it. You can trace it from the 'black box' that holds the GP card. On the truck side of the plug, there should be 12V on the pink/black wire.

You do have 24V on the large wire from the resistors correct?

Later,
Joe

I will do more wiki checks tomarrow and also those suggested in the crash-af post

as far as 24v on large wire from resistor, i dont know....will check tomarrow

it's funny how this is all working...i dont know or really understand electricty, I got the basics. I have a couple buddies that sometimes help and they both have thier own knowledge of how it should work...and then there is the way the military designed it, we are all learning from the threads on this forum. I'll keep reporting on this thread and I appreciate the responses. Maybe this truck will get fixed soon and I will plow with it...the plow is already mounted. I have to admit i'm a little worried about putting another loom of wires in this truck(for headlights and plow control) it's already so full...is there a specific spot on the fuse box that you would recommend to tap into
If anyone lives reasonably close to CDA idaho i'll owe ya a snow push or 2

Electricity is not that difficult, think of it like water and the wiring diagrams like road maps and you'll do fine. Wiring the plow lights won't be very hard, I will recommend that as with all wiring jobs, you take your time and lay out the wires and spend time making it a clean installation.

Buy several different colors of wire if the lights don't come with a long enough harness. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to troubleshoot a problem when all the wires are red and black. Make notes of what color operates what function. Put a copy of your notes in your service manual. You'll thank me later.

Use split loom to protect and bundle the wiring. You can get it from NAPA. It makes any installation look 100 times better and if there's a problem, you don't have to unwrap 100 miles of sticky electrical tape to find and fix the problem.

Tap off of the main terminal block above the master cylinder and make sure you use a properly rated fuse on the wire when you connect the power this way. It will save you from trying to tap into the fuse box and if something happens, you don't have to worry about the truck's wiring.

Make sure you use a grommet on any hole in the firewall that you pass the wires through.

A properly installed lighting setup will last you a long time with fewer opportunities for problems to come up. The longer you spend in planning and laying out the wiring, the longer you won't have to worry about it failing when you really need it.

Later,
Joe

Should glow plugs be hot all the time while truck is running?

If not, what tells the relay to kick off?

No, they should not be energized all the time... that will burn them out.

The controller card tells them when to kick off by removing the ground signal from the light blue wire. Part of the circuit on the card is a timer that turns off the glow plugs after a preset amount of time.

If the relay you have closed when you hooked up the pink/black wire to the relay, then it is not an isolated ground relay and is grounded through the mount. This type will not work as a glow plug relay.

You should have 24V on the resistor side of the relay and no voltage on the glow plug side of the relay with the key off.

Later,
Joe

Glow plug module?

could glow plug module be source of all problems....

I went to napa to have them test GPR (first one from truck...original) because it has 12v on top big post and both small posts when connected at truck,
they tested it and couldn't get the click, hence forth it is bad right? No, They were skeptical with thier own test and decided to pull a new one off the shelf and test it...same result, no click. Maybe the (original) is still good
I have had them test standard starting solenoids before with success
I know most of the guys at napa here because I own 5 trucks....lots of routine maintenence so they are willing to help if they can.

My buddy at napa began to ask why an st-85 solenoid would work in this application...I told him that it is probably because it doesn't ground at mounting base...kind of an isolated ground deal, is any or all of that right?
I also told him that the GPR110 was an option..and thats why I had purchased GPR109(cheaper version)...he said that none of the numbers crossed, and it would appear that none are for the exact same purpose, thats just info from his book. Is anyone here actually running a GPR 109 or is that an unsubstantiated claim....it came from the faq section

what is stock civy relay for GP and why doesn't it work

back to module question...could module have gotten fried when small orange wire was on constant hot post(input side of relay)

something just doesn't add up with all of this testing and different results with each test...

new info for ya, is that resistor on fire wall behind engine in center?...if so than it is unhooked completely and that would appear to mean that someone has changed setup to 12v...I have a 12v hot going from negative of second batt to input side of relay...blue on left...pink on right...and 2 big and one small orange on bottom. as I was testing the votage was dropping, 12.8v on big input and 11.7 on small posts all numbers were diminishing a tenth at a time while testing but I do know that batt 1 was low(50%)

This newest info would have been nice to know, to begin with!

someone has supplied your relay with 12V. This can work fine with a few compromises.

PM me your number and I'll call you(tell me what time is good for you). We can cover everything in one call.

I can rest a little easier now

confimation on GP card...burned out

like doghead said I just wired in a pushbutton starter switch and relay works when I want, less room for mechanical/electrical failure....good stuff

from a previous thread I can also update that the tranny shifts normal again after replacement vaccumm lines.

all thats left i think is small coolant leak where aluminum housing bolts to intake/head, gremlin that drains batts, and fix seat. oh ya, and fix canopy w/new lock and key