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No, there are no pictures, so do not even try!
I finally got started on my first rear wheel. I can report the following:
- if you do not have the budd socket, the geared lug wrench is a great tool to get the wheels off
- the write-ups on this site about axle seal replacement and cranetruck's hub flip how-to are excellent. http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/m35dualstosinglesconversion
- I had a leaking wheel cylinder and leaking seals; the cleanup of backing plate, brake drum and hub was time consuming and nasty. Think twice about doing this if you do not have access to a pressure washer. I am certain that there will be no grass growing where I attacked the grime....
- the protective cage covering the wheel cylinder goes back on BEFORE the wheel cylinder is connected and tightened into place. Otherwise, you get to take it apart again. I know.
- it is possible to get the new brake shoes on without using spring pliers, but one part (a spring, a washer, a bolt) always falls of in the process and it can be frustrating to get both shoes on with the spring preconnected. Tip: have the spring preconnected, put one shoe on and secure top guide pin loosely from the back. Now put the pushrod that goes into the wheel cylinder ON THE BRAKE SHOE (a dab of grease holds it well) and guide the push rod into the wheel cylinder while sliding the brake shoe in place. I found that having the pushrod already in the wheel cylinder when mounting the second brake shoe did not allow me to get the second shoe on.
- when flipping the hub, you can Loctite the eight hex bolts in place OR replace the safety wire in a figure of eight fashion through the bolt heads. If you forget to do either one and begin the assembly, you get to lift the brake drum/hub assembly back off and secure the bolt heads. I know.
- put the inner hex nut on finger tight and then mount the wheel; it makes easier to get a feel for what you are doing to the bearings
- The preload on the wheel bearings generated by the inner hex nut is surprisingly gentle. Do not overtighten and do not forget to back off 1/16 to 1/4 turn, as per TM
- being in possession of a 3 in 8 point socket and new tabbed lock washers for the bearing nuts is a great life saving idea
- oh and....it will take a lot longer than you think!
I finally got started on my first rear wheel. I can report the following:
- if you do not have the budd socket, the geared lug wrench is a great tool to get the wheels off
- the write-ups on this site about axle seal replacement and cranetruck's hub flip how-to are excellent. http://imageevent.com/cranetruck/m35dualstosinglesconversion
- I had a leaking wheel cylinder and leaking seals; the cleanup of backing plate, brake drum and hub was time consuming and nasty. Think twice about doing this if you do not have access to a pressure washer. I am certain that there will be no grass growing where I attacked the grime....
- the protective cage covering the wheel cylinder goes back on BEFORE the wheel cylinder is connected and tightened into place. Otherwise, you get to take it apart again. I know.
- it is possible to get the new brake shoes on without using spring pliers, but one part (a spring, a washer, a bolt) always falls of in the process and it can be frustrating to get both shoes on with the spring preconnected. Tip: have the spring preconnected, put one shoe on and secure top guide pin loosely from the back. Now put the pushrod that goes into the wheel cylinder ON THE BRAKE SHOE (a dab of grease holds it well) and guide the push rod into the wheel cylinder while sliding the brake shoe in place. I found that having the pushrod already in the wheel cylinder when mounting the second brake shoe did not allow me to get the second shoe on.
- when flipping the hub, you can Loctite the eight hex bolts in place OR replace the safety wire in a figure of eight fashion through the bolt heads. If you forget to do either one and begin the assembly, you get to lift the brake drum/hub assembly back off and secure the bolt heads. I know.
- put the inner hex nut on finger tight and then mount the wheel; it makes easier to get a feel for what you are doing to the bearings
- The preload on the wheel bearings generated by the inner hex nut is surprisingly gentle. Do not overtighten and do not forget to back off 1/16 to 1/4 turn, as per TM
- being in possession of a 3 in 8 point socket and new tabbed lock washers for the bearing nuts is a great life saving idea
- oh and....it will take a lot longer than you think!
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