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Mico Brake Lever lock, Where to mount it ?

Bunkerbuilder

Bunkerbuilder

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Hello Members of steelsoldiers.com

I’ve been collecting Military Vehicles for many years. This seems like a real interesting board to learn and share them.

I picked up this Lever lock as I converted one of my CUCV's to Disc brakes in the rear and wanted to have something to act as a parking brake beyond putting the transmission in park.

I also plan to run a TC brake or a pinion brake but have yet to find one that I like.

How about some thoughts on where to mount this Lever Lock and or a prop valve ?

I always thought the dash was too flimsy a place to mount it. but then anywhere else would mean alot of extra brake line.

Just for S & G here is the Disc Brake conversion.

Here is my 14 bolt disc brake conversion.
I used all 1 ton parts mainly just to see if I could do it....I also was not pleased that the 3/4 ton kit had problems with both the studs and the fact that the rotor did not have any place to sit on the hub.
I solved these problems using 1 ton dually rotors and a machined ring that fits between the rotor and hub. and as you can see I made a spacer to take up the gap between the axle housing and the caliper bracket.
also here is a list of GM parts I used for anyone that wants to know what they are.
3977397 HUBS Rear Wheel
9428908 GM INNER BEARING & RACE
15702309 HUB SNAP RING
7451928 GM OUTER BEARING & RACE
9436881
ROTORS 1985 Chevy front dually
CONCENTRIC RINGS MACHINE SHOP
3988538 GM WHEEL STUDS 16
469694 SEAL
15665667 CALIPER
15665668 CALIPER
BENDIX PADS
Caliper bracket 1985 Chevy Dana 60 right and left sides
12338037 CALIPER LOCK BOLT
14023437 SPRING
14023439 KEY 2
462813 SHIELD
462814 SHIELD
341509 Spindle nut
12471641 Axle gasket
Brake lock I used MICO, Inc. : Innovative Braking and Controls Worldwide

Mounting info on the lever lock.
http://docs.google.com/gview?a=v&pid=gmail&attid=0.1&thid=124ef9e6dcc27a46&mt=application%2Fpdf&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmail.google.com%2Fmail%2F%3Fui%3D2%26ik%3D696f819144%26view%3Datt%26th%3D124ef9e6dcc27a46%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dattd%26zw&sig=AHIEtbQ17lJQ7oFDsTD65wHuhlPZ2YcQCg

20 lbs each before.

10 lbs each after.

Pic Below is mocking up the rotor / caliper to know how thick the adapter needed to be.





Click to expand...
I dont know why but it seems this board does not like IMG code.

I hope this can be remedied in time.
 
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11Echo

11Echo

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One of the members on this board has done a writeup on his rear disc conversion. I believe it has a more traditional cable setup on the rear for a parking brake. I don't remember who it was. I think I read somewhere that using calipers from a Lincoln was convenient for attaching a parking brake.
 

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allrevup

allrevup

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Most rigs using levers or valves, that I have seen are some where in the floor middle or to the drivers left for eassy acces.
You could place it on the dash, like bottons on Big Rigs maybe one the plates that many M1009 have in the dash trim and reinforse it from the back with bolts & a metal lever/braket to the fire wall, not much in the way back there
With the GM, ElDorado or Torronado FWD calipers you get the provitions for parking brakes.
 
jeli

jeli

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Just remember you need to route the lines to and from so put it somewhere you can get to it to reduce the pain in the butt factor. I went a different mico brake on my GMC. It has a solenoid to hold it and fits nicely along the frame rail. Works great, especially with a manual trans.
 

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Bunkerbuilder

Bunkerbuilder

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I thought about using an electric lock but wanted to reduce the malfunction factor as much as possable.

Do you have the part # and cost of the item you went with ?

Thanks in advance.


jeli said:
Just remember you need to route the lines to and from so put it somewhere you can get to it to reduce the pain in the butt factor. I went a different mico brake on my GMC. It has a solenoid to hold it and fits nicely along the frame rail. Works great, especially with a manual trans.
Click to expand...
 
4bogginchevys

4bogginchevys

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Very nice work. I am curious why you wanted to stay true 1 ton on the conversion...and why you had a spacer machined instead of bracket that located the caliper correctly w/o spacer. I am doing a conversion on mine this weekend so I just got curious about your motives. Thanks, and again, nice job.
 
m16ty

m16ty

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Just keep in mind that a line lock can leak off or you could develop a brake system leak and the truck can roll away. They work well and I've used them on alot of stuff but I don't depend on them to hold the brakes on for extended periods. It's best to chock the wheels also to make sure the truck stays put.
 
Bunkerbuilder

Bunkerbuilder

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Sorry I didnt see these questions until now...

I went with one ton brake parts because the truck is a one ton or 5/4ths ton or 1.250 actually its just under 10K GVWR so thats more like 1.750 ton or 4000 payload capability as the 2001 chevys used the same caliper and rotor dimentions even though they used a small pair of shoes on the inside of the rotor.

I used a spacer that I made on my cnc mill as I didnt know of any bracket to mount the 1 ton brake calipers to my 14 bolt axle afaik it didnt exist so I made a spacer out of 1018 steel.

I didnt care for the fact that the stock studs did not have a press fit into the rotor when using the 3/4 ton rotors yes they do press into the hub but only after passing thru the 3/4 ton rotor with slop (space) between the rotor and stud knurl.

I also shelved the idea of the mico lock in favor of the np200 parking brake modified to fit my brand new np205.

Link below to that thread.


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...nto-NP205-TRANSFER-CASE&p=1681875#post1681875



4bogginchevys said:
Very nice work. I am curious why you wanted to stay true 1 ton on the conversion...and why you had a spacer machined instead of bracket that located the caliper correctly w/o spacer. I am doing a conversion on mine this weekend so I just got curious about your motives. Thanks, and again, nice job.
Click to expand...
 
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