Vertical Welding Question

I have been welding for quite a while but I seldom if ever do vertical welding. I need to weld an I-beam to a trailer.

The I-Beam is 3/16 in thick. I am welding it to heavier material.

I have a Miller DVI MIG welder using .035 wire and Argon / CO2 mixed gas.

I set the maching up according to instructions. I need to make some nice vertical welds and a few overhead welds. The trailer I am working on is way too big to roll over to make it easier.

Any tips or hints? Should I start at the bottom and go up?

Thanks in advance,
Gary

I'm no expert, but I like to start at the bottom and go up, as the weld puddle will tend to flow down from gravity. That way the puddle isn't moving over where you haven't welded yet.

yes from the botton up if your material is over 1/8 in thick .you can make spot welds or tack welds up if it gets to hot .you might need different settings ,not as hot for vertical, hotter for overhead .clean the steel with an angle grinder .migs do not like dirty steel. once you have a good root pass you can always run a downhand cover pass to smooth things out

You want to weld vertical-up on anything really critical because welding down traps contaminants in the weld-pool.

not true about downhand if you know what you are doing. just dont weld downhand on anything thicker than 1/8 steel. theres not much penetration downhand its good for sheet metal

how many amps is your welder?? we weld half in steel with migs vertical down all the time in the shop as a" backing pass" then stick weld on the other side.
but we also got some big honking welders so...............

welding

Using E71s procedure, it is not prequalified to weld downhill unless it is for repairing undercut on the sides of the vertical weld. The undercut cannot be more than 1/32" deep.
So weld it uphill because mig process on light gauge ( under 1/4") is not a deep penetrating process.
You can use a side to side weaving
or a slant whip weave on a 45%
make sure you burn in each of the sides for a moment and go faster across the middle so the center of the weld will not have excessive reinforcement.
Of coarse the machine will have to have the proper balance of amps and wirespeed.
Make sure to aim the wire straight in the vertical weld or i usually aim it down into the weld puddle at least 5 degrees. Do not aim the wire uphill.

I have used it down hill on non structural joints, but i wouldn't do that on a trailer frame

You can use a 6010 or 6011 stick for down hill on light gauge or for a good root pass.

If you want a good weld, use a low hydrogen rod like 7018, weld uphill. It is a proven good structural process.
When in doubt, pay a certified welder to do the frame!

Make sure you use the proper fit up. Do you have a single bevel on one end of the joint at least? you should. You want a full penetration weld if possable on an I-beam. If you do decide to have a full-pen weld, then back gouge with a grinder or air arc the back side and install a cover pass over the back gouge area.

If you butt the beam to the mating steel, you will only have a fillet weld. Depending on the application fillet welds are qualified.

3/16" iron, you can weld it all around the beam, hold open a gap for a root opening and you will get better penetration.
I hope this helped an bit!

Weld from bottom up to top.

I welded the crap out of it.

Once the beam was beveled the actual thickness was about 1/8". I tried to go uphill with different settings and could not get a good bead. After grinding it out I started at the top and went downhil. I got good penetration and the bead looked good. I made passes on each side of the root weld then three more passes one on top down the middle and one more on each side of the first two side passes. This was done on both sides of the I-Beam and on the flanges.

Once I get the hitch welded on I plan to support the end of the tongue and then load my tractor on the trailer and test the welds. I appreciate all the help and information.

I can't load photos here. No matter how small I make them the attachment system says they are too big. You can see the project here.

Kafer Werks

Gary

If not sure of your welds, always use right angle flanges, drill the trailer frame and then into the bottom of whatever your placing on top of it, into its frame or right through the floor, every couple of feet with a big washer/plates with 3/4 inch carriage bolts - better safe than sorry.

I am sure of the welds. I just like to proof load things and double check everything. I fitted the I beams. Made test fits, took everything apart. Remeasured and test fitted again before tack welding. Then measured everything once again. The welding went through the same process of welding, grinding out welds that didn't look right and rewelding.

It took much longer than a professional shop but I am sure the job is just as good.

Thanks everyone,
Gary