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Oil pressure too high??

fallen

Member
126
0
16
Location
Meclenburg county nc
After I got the lifters freed up I tried to crank the engine. That’s when I found out problem #2. The oil seal at the canister blows out. I purchased a conversion to use a screw on filter. It works great. I also called bill Watson and was told to make sure the valve going to the carb. pipe is open as well as the other crankcase vent tube. I cleaned out the vent tube and made sure the valve was open. The oil seal still blows at the spin on filter. You can actually see the filter loosen up a slight, while cranking engine, before the seal blows. Has anyone had this happen. I really would like to get the mule going before it snows. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Can anyone tell me where i can actually check the oil pressure at.
I am using the correct screw on filter. It is the same on that is used on the 318 engine. It is tightened properly and the crankcase is not over filled.
 

crankshaft45

Member
43
0
6
Location
Ortonville, MI.
could be a problem with the oil pressure regulator valve. Remove left shroud and look for the hex bolt by the oil lines. Remove and clean and check for damage to plug, spring and valve.
 

Charlie

Member
126
2
18
Location
Alabama
I agree with crankshaft45, the fact that your lifters were stuck makes it a good chance that your regulator valve is also stuck....closed. Pull the oil line off the governor and see how much oil flow you have.
 

fallen

Member
126
0
16
Location
Meclenburg county nc
I finally got the time to work on my mule yesterday. I removed the oil pressure regulator plug and spring. The spring had a black tar substance on it. I beleive it is the byproduct of a leaky fuel punp allowing fuel to mix with oil and then sit for years and allowed to dry. The really bad news is I cant get the valve out of the block. I tried soaking it with carb cleaner, so far it will not budge. I removed the oilpump gears but it does not appear to allow me to get to the other side of the valve. Can anyone advise what the next step should be. thanks
 

crankshaft45

Member
43
0
6
Location
Ortonville, MI.
I have never seen what the valve looks like so I may be off base here. If worse came to worse and it were mine, I would check with Bill Watson or David Kelone and see if they might have a replaement valve. If so, then do what ever it takes to get the old one out, Drill it, tap it and use a pller and just replace it.

Charlie will probably have a better solution, he is much more knolledgeable mule wise than I am.
 

fallen

Member
126
0
16
Location
Meclenburg county nc
I was going to call Bill today but I wasted my morning in court. When I got out I spent the rest of my shift locking up two trespassers. I think his new hours would mean I cant call him until monday. I'm still sratching my head trying to figure out how to free the valve.
 

crankshaft45

Member
43
0
6
Location
Ortonville, MI.
Again, I am not familier with the layout of the oil passeges, but if you have the oil pump gears off and can locate the passege to the valve, use your solvent on both sides of the valve. If you have access to an air compressor and rubber tipped air gun put pressure in the oil passage and with a hammer and punch tap the other side of the valve. If you put solvent in the passage way and pressurize it USE EYE PROTECTION!
 

fallen

Member
126
0
16
Location
Meclenburg county nc
I spoke with Bill Watson. He had not had this particular problem with a mule. I have been trying to locate a diagram of the oil pressure regulator assembly but can't seem to locate one. Can anyone advise the manual number that shows the inner workings of the engine, especially the oil pressure regulator. Thanks
 

bigmike

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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354
83
Location
Dixon CA.
Interesting problem. I sorry i can't help anymore then the other posting but am anxious to see how this pans out.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Charlie

Member
126
2
18
Location
Alabama
I don't ever remember having a problem removing the relief valve, but just to make sure, I took a really old engine that was in my junk pile and removed the valve. I took the plug and spring out, stuck my little magnet into the hole, and the valve sliped right out.
TM 5-2805-213-24P is the engine parts manual, but it shows about the best layout for the valve. I don't think any of the manuals show the oil passages in the block.
 

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fallen

Member
126
0
16
Location
Meclenburg county nc
That is a great view. I did not know what the plunger actually looked like. I am at the point of using some heat to try to unstick the valve but i am concerned that i might really mess something up. I thought maybe trying to using a broken bolt extractor or even trying to jb weld something inside of it and then trying to get it out. I'm going to Delks next week to get one out of a used block they have. Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help.
 

crankshaft45

Member
43
0
6
Location
Ortonville, MI.
Here is a thought, It appears the valve is hollow. If you take a steel rod that will fit inside of it, heat the rod and put it in the valve, it might melt the oil varnish enough to free the valve.
 

fallen

Member
126
0
16
Location
Meclenburg county nc
That is a good idea. Luckily I was able to get it out yesterday. I used a tap that was just the right size to catch on the edge of the valve. That allowed me to actually grab the valve with the tap and work it out. It looked like someone had put roofing tar on it and then installed it in the engine. I just wonder what going to be next. Thanks for the help.
 

Charlie

Member
126
2
18
Location
Alabama
I'd be worried about plugged oil passages and possible damage to rod and/or main bearings due to lack of lube. I think I'd overfill the crankcase with a gallon or so of diesel fuel and let it soak for a few days, turning the crank occasionally. I'd do it several times and see what comes out of the drain each time. Might be cheap insurance. You might even want to think about pulling the oil pan and make sure the fine mesh screen in the oil pickup bell is not plugged with tyhe gunk. Good luck and keep us informed of the progress!
 

rexman

Member
35
0
6
Location
n.w.pa.
Engine Fix

It's Not That Much Trouble To Drop the Engine,Tear it Apart Inspected All,Might Need Clutch Or Something In that Area,I Don't Know The Story Of Your Mule.But Mine I Use Almost Every Day,Plow Snow With it ( Can Send Info How To Hook Up A Snow Plow If Needed) But Its like Rebuilding A Harley.That Why ya Know What ya got Between your Legs.In This Case Same Deal.Best Way Is Put Mule On 4 Cement Blocks,To Get Under,Around,And Above to Remove Engine And Reinstall. All The Tar Varnis Sounds Like Some One Did Something For Spit.Happen's All The time, Like The Old Sugar In the Gas tank trick.A Ex Wife.Friend Anyone.Ya Know the Story's. Best to Ya. And if There Is A Place to Hook A Oil Line For A Gage ,Would Like To Know,Best to ya.
 

Charlie

Member
126
2
18
Location
Alabama
I gotta agree with Rexman, you've got too much going on in your engine to chance it. Pull the engine (30 minutes max.) drop the pan & windage tray and see what's really going on in there.
 
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