Air cleaner housing mods

Looking at my air cleaner housing, I see a 3/4" diameter pipe outlet on the back of the housing pointed towards the firewall area. Am I correct in thinking that this is a backup air intake path in the event the mushroom gets blocked with snow or other crud?


At idle, the engine is pulling a noticeable amount of air in through that pipe. And, judging by the massive volumes of hot air that gets forced up through every opening in the floorboards on the highway, I would say that pipe is sucking a lot of hot air when driving down the road. Just thinking of plugging it, at least in the summer time.



Also, I would like to turn the mushroom 90 degrees so that I don't have to worry about clearing out all of the snow. Those that have done so, what did you use for pipe?

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Yea this nipple is for the deep water fording kit. And it is on the dirty side of the filter. My truck has the deep water fording kit and and i've never had compressor problems. If you plug it it won't hurt a thing. Some of our fire trucks have the crankcase vent at the top of the valve covers plumbed in there. I've noticed that does seem to spray the air filter with oil mist. But no problems.

FYI if you run with a complete fording kit on, and the air ducting causes a partial vacuum due to the engine/turbo drawing large volumns of air which is trying to make its way from the top of a stack, when the air compress is in the unloaded mode (not making air psi) the vacuum will tend to draw up some oil passed the air comp rings, then it will push it into your wet tank. It is a small consideration and you have to weigh out any bennifits of having it connected.

hey ken why is every post of yours blacked out? is it me or what?

Good points.
I'll plumb in a low pressure gauge (Magnehelic) and see what kind of vacuum we are dealing with.
When I said "clean air" I ment "air not from the engine compartment".
The compressor has its own filter and I wasn't concerned about filtered air.

When I drain the air tanks, there is rarily any oil in the spray. I collected some in a glass beaker once and only a couple of oil droplets ended up floating in the water/alcohol. I do have an alcohol evaporator so there should be some methanol in there, but very little oil.

I'd like to think that keeping it plumbed to the air intake canister helps, but the main reason is to have the deuce in "fording ready" configuration. That was the primary purpose for the crankcase breather filter too, which now is vented just below the air intake mushroom. I'm sure it means changing air filter more often since some light oil mist is bound to get through the crancase filter and recirculated.

I like your critisism, guys, that's why I try to include as many details as possible in my posts. Hopefully, we all learn something new.

Richard i don't know. What is your background color?

I have the green background and I see a lot of posts that appear black. If I highlight it I can read it.

umm white and blue but now I can see you fine.

Red Neck said:

FYI if you run with a complete fording kit on, and the air ducting causes a partial vacuum due to the engine/turbo drawing large volumns of air which is trying to make its way from the top of a stack, when the air compress is in the unloaded mode (not making air psi) the vacuum will tend to draw up some oil passed the air comp rings, then it will push it into your wet tank. It is a small consideration and you have to weigh out any bennifits of having it connected.

Click to expand...

Maybe install a check-valve? Sorry to drag-up an old thread, but I'm trying to figure out how to plumb a 'permanent' fording kit.

I was checking out the air filter housing today on Mah Deuce this afternoon, and I see where that nipple is on the back of the housing, but why WOULDN'T they have tapped into the filtered part of the intake can? If I wanted to plumb the compressor into the intake permanently, is there any reason why I shouldn't just drill/tap a hole in the filtered part of the housing? I was thinking about tapping into the intake right next to the fitting for the intake filter monitor.

You can leave the hose connected to the nipple on the filter canister permanently. I have had mine that way for years.
The xm757 8x8 has this connection "from factory", since the truck was made to swim (engine submerged) without any preps other than pressurizing engine, axle housings, brake drums and so on.

Thanks Bjorn, but I was asking whether there's any reason why I shouldn't drill/tap a hole in the top part of the filter housing, so that the air compressor will get filtered air. I know the air compressor has it's own filter, but I'm just asking 'why not pull from the filtered side of the intake?'. Maybe there's a good reason (higher vacuum or...), which is why I haven't done it yet.