WC-51: What to look for...

So, when looking at one of these, what should I be looking for? I ask because I found one sitting in a field, but before I jump all over the property owner, I do I know it's any good? Good being restorable. I do have a couple pictures, but I'm waiting for them to upload.... And they're just of the body.

I guess it would depend on what your ultimate intentions are. If you plan to "repower" it with a powerpack other then original then the condition of the drive line isn't as important as if you were going to put it back as original as possible.

Commonly missing & some times hard to find parts would be the original type bed which depending on the build date could either be all steel or combo of wood & steel. Tail gate, windshield frame(s), spare tire carrier & disc, head light brush guards,cab seat frames and top bows. There's other stuff (like running boards) but those seem (to me) to be the most commonly removed & disgarded parts.

With the cab, the floor is removable & repros are available so if your's are damaged or missing don't worry. Look around the cowl vent & windshield frame pivots for rust. If the original bed is still on it, check the left front storage compartment as a lot of times when these trucks were converted to 12v, the battery was relocated to that compartment so there's usually some rot in there as a result.

If your going with the original drive train, you can check to see if the radiator is still holding coolant, engine turns freely, transmission shifts. Pay attention to the T-case, they used a single speed unit on these trucks unlike the larger, heavier 2sp units found under M37s. They might be hard to get-not sure, though. If I can think of anything else (provided noone else chimes in) or you have questions don't hesitate to email/PM me. The first complete frame off resto I ever completed was a WC51. They're great trucks & a real crowd pleaser/head turner.
Matt

Parts are getting hard to find so even if your not going to restore it the parts are valuable to others that are. Axles, T case, good frame, winshield frame, spare tire carrier, combat rims, fenders, front cowl and so forth. At this point any and all parts/trucks should be saved from decay and scrappers. IMHO. Most are missing the back box.. I need a pintle hitch if you get it and part it out.

If your goal is restoration, straight sheet metal and period engine (T214 or T215) are important.

In any case, Midwest Military and Vintage Power Wagon (and even epay) will be important to you, as there are more NOS and good repo parts available then you would ever expect!

I am in the middle of my WC-51 restoration and make sure you check for rust and corrosion. I have the metal/wood bed later version and have been able to repair or purchase everything I need so far (albeit expensive) except the seat pans for the front seats. It is a challenge sometimes but well worth it so far.

Here is my thread:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/wwii-dodge-trucks/83422-wc-51-restoration-bust.html

Tinwoodsman said:

I am in the middle of my WC-51 restoration and make sure you check for rust and corrosion. I have the metal/wood bed later version and have been able to repair or purchase everything I need so far (albeit expensive) except the seat pans for the front seats. It is a challenge sometimes but well worth it so far.

Here is my thread:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/wwii-dodge-trucks/83422-wc-51-restoration-bust.html

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I was looking at that thread before. Nice work.

Pictures of said WC-51

Now, after looking at others, I may have the wrong vehicle designation. Please help identify the truck.

I tried cropping one picture, hoping for closer and clearer. The other two were too blurry after zooming in.

Thunder in NWOR said:

If your goal is restoration, straight sheet metal and period engine (T214 or T215) are important.

In any case, Midwest Military and Vintage Power Wagon (and even epay) will be important to you, as there are more NOS and good repo parts available then you would ever expect!

Click to expand...

Um, how does one tell the difference between a T214 and a T215?

If the drivetrain is toast, I might be inclined to upgrade it some. Maybe squeeze a diesel in there...

hwcurtice said:

Now, after looking at others, I may have the wrong vehicle designation. Please help identify the truck.

I tried cropping one picture, hoping for closer and clearer. The other two were too blurry after zooming in.

Click to expand...

That isn't a WC51. It's a 50's/60's Dodge M37. The WC's replacement. Had a similar (almost identical) engine in it to the WC51, 230 flat head 6 cylinder T-245. 4sp gear box & the added advantage of a 2sp T-case. gearing was 5:83 They were a heavy truck at roughly 5700 lbs. It will be a little easier to get parts for that then the WC and there are some niffty add on kits as well as some aftermarket parts (lock out hubs, disc brake conversions) available for them.
Matt

hwcurtice said:

Um, how does one tell the difference between a T214 and a T215?

If the drivetrain is toast, I might be inclined to upgrade it some. Maybe squeeze a diesel in there...

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Honestly how I Itell is I look for where it is embossed on the block. My WC51 had the engine out of it's big brother, the WC62 (T-223). I think the T215 was used in the 1/2 tons but am not 100% sure about that. As for fitting a diesel engine, here's some links for you;


1953 Dodge M37 M-Series Rebuild LLC, CUMMINS DIESEL engine for DODGE M37, M37B1, M43,V41, M56 military trucks, civilian power wagon, B1pw, B3pw, C3series, B3 series.

g741.org • Index page

Matt

And now, to ask the current owner if I can see the data plate, to determine MV status or if it isn't one....

It is an MV, it's a M37 power wagon, only the military owned that type of PW. Your M101 trailer was made to be towed behind this truck.

Dodge VC 1/2 tons (VC1 through VC6 had T-202 engines.
Dodge WC 1/2 tons (WC1 through WC27 and WC40 through WC43) had T-207, T-211, or T-215 engines (first 4 digits of number cast on driver's side front of engine block).
Dodge WC 3/4 tons (WC51 through WC60) had T-214 or T-215 cast.
Dodge WC 1 1/2 tons (WC62 & WC 63) had T-223.
Dodge M37 3/4 tons usually had T-245.
T202, T207 and T211 were 217 cc.
T214 and T215 were 230 cc.

I had a friend put a desiel engine from a bread truck in an M37 with great success...

Here's another good link for you. Lots of info In fact, the owner of this link, posts on here. 1953 Dodge M37

Matt

An M37 is very collectible, and fun to drive. Engine parts are easy to find, but body parts rust away and are gone forever. The gauges and wiring are fairly common to that era, but the old style Douglas wire connectors are getting hard to track down at a reasonable price. Any M37 with a winch is often missing the winch since it could be moved to other trucks. Many of the common parts are being reproduced, though, but at higher prices than we used to pay for NOS parts. Canvas is being reproduced, but again at a higher price.

You can rebuild anything, but at a certain point your wallet will start to scream. A good general rule is to track down the best unrestored truck you can find at a reasonable price - don't buy somehting that had been modified all over the place at a premium price for the mods, then decide to restore it back to original. At that point, you are throwing away the money you paid for the unwanted modifications.

Years ago, I looked at an M37 that had become a rich man's toy - complete with yellow Imron paint, a larger motor, an auto tranny, 12 volt conversion, and all for only $ 11,000. I walked away and found one parked in a construction company storage yard for $ 750. The price was low since the engine was worn out, but I knew that from the start. The engine rebuild was a known factor that wasn't a surprise. I planned on rebuilding the differentials, the tranny, and the transfer from day-1. When I finished, the entire drive train had been rebuilt, and I had a reliable truck. If you buy someone else's restoration, you are relying on them to have done things the right way, and you might find out later that they weren't much of a mechanic.....

maddawg308 said:

It is an MV, it's a M37 power wagon, only the military owned that type of PW. Your M101 trailer was made to be towed behind this truck.

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I would think the m101a1 was designed for this, not the a2 and the wheels aren't interchangeable, right?

Yes, you're right. I didn't notice the A2 designation, except for the wheels, the trailer is still the right size for your rig. You'll need to carry a spare tire for the trailer, though, since they do not interchange.

Well, I am disappointed. We stopped by the guys place today and he isn't interested in selling. Too bad. The truck is in really good condition overall and wouldn't take much, I think, to get running again.

I did leave my number, in case he changes his mind. He also said he would ask some friends of his, who seem to have some, if they are interested in selling. So maybe something will come of this...

Sorry to hear that, Man but it happens. Look on the bright side, now you can save up a little more money, arm your self with knowledge and when the right MV comes along, you'll be able to jump on it, & know what to look for. I cut my MV teath on Dodges so I've always been partial to them. They are great trucks and there seem to be a lot of "Survivors" around so if you miss one opportunity, there's always another coming up around the bend.....Beleive me, I know .

Matt

M37 or M56

How, besides looking at the dataplate, can you tell the difference?

I did a search for M56, because someone is selling one locally, and it started to look a lot like the one I found, that the guy won't sell.

I moved this over to the appropriate forum area : http://www.steelsoldiers.com/m37/90264-m37-vs-m56.html#post1157232

Suppose after it was identified as not being a WC-51, it should have gone over there already. Thank you all for your advice and assistance on this.