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head bolt tool worth having?

Monster Man

New member
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I saw one of the specialized head bolt tool,s on eBay- are they worth getting, are they hard to find etc.?

I made on just like that for my Ducati head bolts by bending a cheap wrench, but am worried that really wouldn't work on the deuce- what do they need to be torqued to?
 

MV Trucker

New member
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That wrench is almost a must have. It's my understanding that there are long and short versions. The one I looked at on eBay, perhaps the one you viewed, appears to be the short one. I don't know if there's a preference. I do know that a few years ago these wrenches were a very high priced item.
 

Monster Man

New member
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Originally posted by MV Trucker

That wrench is almost a must have. It's my understanding that there are long and short versions. The one I looked at on eBay, perhaps the one you viewed, appears to be the short one. I don't know if there's a preference. I do know that a few years ago these wrenches were a very high priced item.
thanks, I'll have to dig into my tool budget and see if there's anything left this month <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_approve.gif" alt="Approve">
 

dilvoy

Member
733
24
18
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
I paid $45 for one and did not hesitate for a minute. I had changed a blown head gasket and could not find one of these. I made one out of a double box wrench and used a torch to bend it. I used a long steel bar inserted into the other box end to turn the wrench. It is mikey mouse, but I have had no problem with this vehicle for three thousand miles and six years. There are I think two nuts that really need this wrench. They are on the left hand side near the front. I did re torque mine twice, after letting them sit for a week each time. Just as an aside note. when I bought my truck It had a recently repaired radiator. The head gasket did not give any problen until 1,0000 miles of use. It blew our at the rearmost fire ring. The gasket was pushed out the back and the oil galley was exposed, so oil would spill out. What a mess. I removed both heads with the exhaust and intake manifolds as an assy. I strapped a pair of 6x6's in the shape of an "A" to each fender. The tops were tied with chain and had enough board sticking above the cross to allow another 6x6 to nestle inside to use as a cross support. The "A" frames were tied to the truck. The cross piece has a chain around it so the come along could hook on. The heads need only to be lifted far enough to clear the head studs, unless there is another problem with the heads than the head gasket. Be carefull of the injectors. They extend below the head surface and into the round pocket in the center of the piston. Very interesting design. It The pocket was the size of a golf ball and had a sort of swirl shape to the top of it. The pistons were also coated with a shiny black powder coat of something like it. This engine was an LD465-1D I'll probably never need to use that tool for a deuce again, bit I'm glad I have it.
 

Caustic

New member
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if you need to torque your heads, that tool is a must have. I was able to get the heads off without it but there is no way to torque the bolts the the 130 or 158 ft/lbs required.

that reminds me, i torqued mine to 158 because thats what it said on the paper that came with the gasket but i later read that the torque spec is only 130. so should i retorque the heads at 130 or just leave them at 158?
 

Attachments

Westech

CPL
6,104
206
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
Im doing my head gaskets as we speak and it goes like so... 1st time round torque all to 110 foot pounds, 2ed time to 130 foot pounds, 3ed time to 157 foot pounds and 4th time to the same 157 foot pounds. so you should be good to go. Ive heard of guys retorquing after 100 miles or so, but if you do so it must be cold!!! let it sit over night first.
 
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