Working with lead, in bodywork

When jdobyns was over here last Friday, he got a good look at the work that still needs to be done on the -725 before it can be restored. One of the many things left were a few holes that had been drilled to hold up a ladder rack on the passenger side. These two holes were just to the right of the windshield, and about 1" from the rubber weatherstrip around the glass. He said it would be too close to weld without melting the weatherstrip, and I don't want that.

However, he did say that I could use lead, heated up to almost liquid (the point where it's a paste) and mushed into the hole to close it up, then sand and prime like normal. However, he did say that he had not had any experience doing this.

Anyone here ever worked with lead in a bodywork application?

lead

It's is not done much these days because bondo and fiberglass are so much easier to do. Small holes should not much of a problem, anyone that cast bullet or fishing weights will have a pot and heater. Big problem is to figure out how to apply it to a vertical surface.
Don't overlook the burn and lung damage either. Wayne

lead

There are fillers like Jb weld that might work in your case.
http://jbweld.net/index.php

RE: lead

That JB Weld looks like a winner. No fuss, no fumes, no heat, and I can sand just like if it was fiberglass or a steel weld. Thanks for the info!

I would have to say that filling a drill hole with a MIG welder by using very short bursts of the trigger and tacking it closed is alot easier than using lead. If using lead, a "cooling fence" has to be applied to the surface around the hole to keep the heat to the immediate area surrounding the hole. This is difficult and warping could occur. Also the surface has to be cleaned and flux used. A MIG welder does an excellent job of localising the heat if your patient.

Eastwood sells alot of lead and other body work items. Many local bodyshop supply stores don't even sell lead anymore. What is approx. distance from the jole to the weatherstripping?

I agree with No.2, I would also mention that popping a rivet in, would let bondo or glass work from there.

Hole is about 1 inch from the weatherstrip, and the holes are about 5/8 diameter from the ladder rack bolts. A rivet would be too small.

Got pics?

oh yeah I forgot about JB weld....oh well it was cold and I was not thinking clearly hahaha

One method I use to keep something from melting while I weld/braze/solder next to it, is to place a water-soaked rag or two over the part I want to stay cool. I learned it from building and repairing brass models which are soldered together... As assembly of the model progresses, there is a risk of re-melting the solder holding parts that have already been put on (particularly since I usually use a pencil torch to solder), and the work could fall apart. For models I use clothes pins to hold on wet cotton balls to keep parts cool, or even put the model in a dish of water with only the area to be worked on exposed.

I would have no fear welding up a hole 1" from the rubber gasket... Be sure to protect the glass from heat and spatter, too.

Regards,
Jon

...oh, and be sure the wet rags touch the metal, not just the rubber, or it could melt from the inside-out...