Proper chain mounting?

I have been reading my searches on this subject on SS, It has
a lot of information. But the one thing I haven't seen are the
don't do this with chains thread.

I came across this photo,and have seen many others like it.
If you look at the picture,the end of the chain is not safely
secured, and bungee cords lack the strength to hold this
spinning mass together.

I wasn't there when the photo was taken, so I don't know the
reason for why it was mounted like that. On closer inspection,
the chain seems too small for the tire.

Some insight from our in the know members about the proper
mounting,inspection and retightening should help keep us
safe out there doing what we love.

budman67 said:

I have been reading my searches on this subject on SS, It has a lot of information. But the one thing I haven't seen are the
don't do this with chains thread.

Click to expand...

I'm sure there is a TM or FM out there somewhere.......

budman67 said:

I came across this photo,and have seen many others like it.
If you look at the picture,the end of the chain is not safely secured, and bungee cords lack the strength to hold this spinning mass together.

Click to expand...

Yes - well spotted. The "over center clip" at approx 10 O'clock should be threaded through the appropriate link then tightened back on itself and hooked to the link closer to 9 O'clock.
Tire chains should not be used over 30 mph or so and never allowed to spin.
Tension across the wheel face is needed - like you say - a couple of rubber stretchies isn't enough.
NB - Tire chains on farm tractors are fit loose so that as the wheel goes forward, the chain migrates backwards and this keeps the links 'clean'.

budman67 said:

I wasn't there when the photo was taken, so I don't know the
reason for why it was mounted like that. On closer inspection, the chain seems too small for the tire.

Click to expand...

Too small in laid out length - yes, but probably not too small going over tire - a little more depth down the side wall would help security.

budman67 said:

Some insight from our in the know members about the proper mounting,inspection and retightening should help keep us
safe out there doing what we love.

Click to expand...

I'd say 'regular and often'!
I'm sure there are CDL guys out there with winter experience that will expand on this....




View attachment 395116

I use chains frequently here on the mountain. From experience the bungee thing does not work. If the tire spins very much the chains will come off the tire. Not fun to crawl under a truck and unwind the chains from a rear end or front end, especially on a hill. I use real chain tensioners which hold the chains taught in 5 or 6 places. They are chain with springs. Put them on before you think you need them, and in a safe place. The come in a variety of sizes. The can be had at most auto part stores.
When driving a big rig I only chained up 1 time and that was on Donner Pass. We look at this way: "if we have to chain up then we should not be moving".

I suspect the slop in the chain that the bungee cords are taking up along with the 2 loose links may have allowed this set of chains to fit on the tire. It is obvious that the installer of the chains in the picture is not familiar with chains and how they work.
If I were to have installed the chains I would have:
gotten the backside of the tire-chain (back side of tire-axle side) through the last link of the 2 dangling links through the end fastener thingy and brought the fastener thingy 180 degrees back to hook onto the chain end it is fastened to at it's base,

Do the same for the front side chain,

If the chain would have hooked, then center chain over front and backside side walls and inspect for looseness,

now go to backside and see if you can b-smack the chain to get the fastener thingy to release and take up a second link to tighten the chain somewhat,

If you can do that then determine if the front side chain needs to be or if it even can be tightened,

tighten it if you can, if you can't that's it,

I would use the bungees on the front to collapse the chains at rest.

the chains will settle in after a short time and need to be checked and possibly shortened by another link.

Properly fitted chains will migrate slightly along the tread so as not to wear in one spot.

I only use the bungees to collapse the chains at rest and only after the chains have been shortened to the point you cannot get another link out of the connection.

Hence the reason I thought this thread was needed. Some of us may think we
are doing it right and we are creating our own disaster. Please educate us.