Hanco/Southwest Products Drash Trailer

Well, today i unintentional won 2 of the Hanco Drash Trailers. Was hoping just to get one, but got them both. Hopefully will be picking them up just before Christmas next week. I hope that i might be able to get a good one made out of the 2. But here's a question to anyone who has transported one...will the chassis fit on a standard twin axle car trailer? I have a standard size 10k 102" wide (at the outside fenders) 20ft long twin axle car trailer that i'd like to haul both of them on so as to not make 2 trips to Albany to get them both home. Here's a few pics of them...

Trailers appear to be the Extended LTT from Schutt (round lights) and Silver Eagle. Drawings of the Silver Eagle version here: https://www.silvereaglemfg.com/flatdeck-extended/

If so, 85.6" wide.

not quite the same trailer as I have, but mine is 10' from the front of the ECU to the back of the trailer.

Were it me I would take a bunch of wood blocks. Have the front trailer sitting level on the deck, tongue as far forward as possible, a pile of wood blocks between the DRASH trailer tongue and the car trailer tongue (or just between the front edge of the DRASH trailer and the car trailer deck), and strapped down good. Rear trailer would be on the trailer backwards, probably 8" or so of wooden blocks under the wheels to raise it up a little, then overlap the rear decks of the 2 drash trailers. The rear DRASH tongue would probably be hanging 2-3 feet off the back of the car trailer (supported right at the back of the car trailer by more blocks of wood), but the weight should be well distributed for towing. Have a red flag on the trailer tongue sticking out the back, and all should be fine.

Cool. I appreciate the replies. The GP guys over in Albany are very easy to work with when loading up things. Been over there several times now,and never had an issues with getting anything loaded up properly. But with these, i might have bitten more than i can chew...at least for now. At least if i do get them running, i can really test my Bruce Industries Type 3 100Kw Load bank i got 2 months or so ago.

They won't fit between the fender wells on car trailers. I have a 14k 20ft car hauler and had to get the guys to lift it over the fenders to put it before the fenders.

I bought one of these from the same auction. Be sure to inspect them in person when you pick it up. My AC unit was shot twice, one of them being a 50 cal. I had a broker pick it up, wish I had done it myself so I could have refused it on site instead of now having to deal with the ironclad assurance BS. I only bought this one because the corners are not damaged at all.

This may help you for overall dimensions, it's the dataplate on my trailer.

Well, i finally got to picking up the units today. Was an interesting drive home with both of them on the trailer. Seems like i got lucky with one of the ECU's on one of them...its a R407c unit,while the other is a R22.

As far as the load out of the Albany yard, everything went smoothy with the guys over there. But i can say now that i've hauled 2 of them on the car trailer i have, there are a few things I'll do differently to haul these things next time. Definitly will need to design some cribbing for the tongue of these trailers so they fit a bit better on the trailer. Once i get it designed, i'll post it on here for everyone to use. And i"ll post some pic of the on my trailer sometime tomorrow.

hrbergeron said:

I bought one of these from the same auction. Be sure to inspect them in person when you pick it up. My AC unit was shot twice, one of them being a 50 cal. I had a broker pick it up, wish I had done it myself so I could have refused it on site instead of now having to deal with the ironclad assurance BS. I only bought this one because the corners are not damaged at all.

Click to expand...

Small world....I'm pretty sure that i bidded on that one myself. The corners on both of the one's i got are bent up. A good thick sheet of aluminum and my sheet metal brake should fix that. And the condensers on both are pretty bad too, One has a hole through it like yours. Its going to be a challenge to find a replacement.

I got the best one already fired up and running. Replaced the cracked fuel lines, drained the fuel tank of water, replaced the fuel filter/base, added coolant, and kept priming till it started up. Got lucky with it....but still have a issue with it.

Does anyone know where the CR3-Cathode assembly is in this Generator? I'm not getting any power to the Speed control/synchronize modules in the control cabinet. i Followed the TM posted for this Generator here and traced the wiring diagram to that particular diode that could be causing me the issue i'm having...but i can't seem to locate it in the generator.

Well, i finally figured out my power issue to the modules. It was the CR-3 diode that had a bad solder joint on it not providing power to the modules when the starter switch was turned on. If anyone one wants to know where it is, it's in the wiring bundle in the control cabinet face directly behind the oil pressure gauge.You'll have to cut the zip ties off to open the wire bundle to get to it.

Also got it to run properly.Got lucky with it...no stuck fuel rack or injection pump.It did take about 6 crank cycles to get the fuel system to prime and fire off. I went ahead and replaced the most sever cracked fuel lined. A 3/16" for the fuel return line and a 5/16" for the rest covered it.

The ECU works too...except for the A/C side due to the condenser core having holes in it. I've Contacted a business and a friend in my home town that might be able to get condenser cores for these units.I'll let everyone know how that goes when i get the information.

Here's a few pics of the running unit...








And here's a pic of how i got them home on my trailer when i picked them up. I was definitely getting some heads to turn while going down the road with this load.