Half shaft broke

I have a quick question. My front left half shaft broke and the truck doesn’t seem to move without going into L or HL. Does the vehicle only move the front left tire in H?

papakb said:

Practice a little brake-throttle modulation and it'll move. If you don't know what that is as a HMMWV owner you should. It's especially handy in cases like this.

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Thanks, I had someone else tek me the same.

08hmmwv said:

...... Does the vehicle only move the front left tire in H

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The transfer case has a (lockable) differential and both axle differentials are open. So unless the TC was shifted into L or HL, all motion/traction goes to the half-shaft & wheel with less resistance to turn.
In your case it's the F-L diff output - with part of the shaft - that will be spinning in H, while the truck stands still.

I had this same one break on me a couple weeks ago. I was coming off the trail so just removed it and drove home without it, but had to keep it in HL or my vehicle would not move either. I tried the brake throttle modulation and still couldn't get it to move other than a few feet, but in HL I was able to drive it no problem. Not driving it anymore until I rebuild my half shaft though. Mine turned out to be only my cage that broke so I'm rebuilding and not replacing.

Chief B said:

I had this same one break on me a couple weeks ago. I was coming off the trail so just removed it and drove home without it, but had to keep it in HL or my vehicle would not move either. I tried the brake throttle modulation and still couldn't get it to move other than a few feet, but in HL I was able to drive it no problem. Not driving it anymore until I rebuild my half shaft though. Mine turned out to be only my cage that broke so I'm rebuilding and not replacing.

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Which one broke if you don’t mind me asking. I didn’t know you can be rebuild it. I had a problem getting off the old one so I cut it in half . And I made the mistake of buying a 10k half shaft and I needed a 12k but hummer parts guy has good prices.

Just ask Marissa Tomei about posi-traction and limited slip differentials.

08hmmwv said:

Which one broke if you don’t mind me asking. I didn’t know you can be rebuild it. I had a problem getting off the old one so I cut it in half . And I made the mistake of buying a 10k half shaft and I needed a 12k but hummer parts guy has good prices.

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my cage that holds it to the wheel is what broke so I simply removed the other end from the brake rotor, pulled it out then I did take the inward end apart on the trail to put that end back on the rotor just to make sure everything was held together while I drove home. Not 100% sure if that part was necessary or not, but that is how I did it. Once I took the six bolts out that hold the inner side to the rotor, the whole thing just fell out since it was no longer being supported by the wheel. I did catch it right away so I think I avoided more damage. Here is the picture of what was left of my outside cage.

Buy a new set of half shafts at autozone 16058n, 16059n, 16060n are the part numbers.

Make sure you order the correct front shafts, as they are side specific because left and right are different lengths.

$114 clams per half shaft. (used to be 99).

Rockport supposedly sells parts, but why with such cheap half shafts with lifetime warranties?



ALSO... Remember that your braking will be bad as brakes connect to inner half shafts and not the wheels themselves.

Crapgame said:

Just ask Marissa Tomei about posi-traction and limited slip differentials.

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Only if she's talking about 1963 Pontiac Tempests.

TOBASH said:

Buy a new set of half shafts at autozone 16058n, 16059n, 16060n are the part numbers.

Make sure you order the correct front shafts, as they are side specific because left and right are different lengths.

$114 clams per half shaft. (used to be 99).

Rockport supposedly sells parts, but why with such cheap half shafts with lifetime warranties?



ALSO... Remember that your braking will be bad as brakes connect to inner half shafts and not the wheels themselves.

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I’ve seen them on their website but they are not specific if they are 10 K or 12 K And if it’s shorter or the longer one that I need

They are not 12K. 10K and 7k are interchangeable IIRC.

12K is not a civilian application, and Autozone probably doesn't do too much military HMMWV support. These axles are meant for Civilian H1's and they fit just fine. I have a set, and others on this forum have used without issue. You should search, you will feel reassured.

Best,

T

"https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/thunk-thunk-knock-knock-in-left-rear.184422/#post-2187636"

Posts #12 and #15 should reassure you.

Best,

T

Ok... looking at the torque sheet, the bolt that holds the half shaft in needs to be tightened to 57lbs.

My question is how are you doing this?

I first tried with the original bolt that came out of the old one and it snapped so I went and bought a new bolt, but it broke before getting to 57lbs as well. Either I got a bum bolt or I have me a bum torque wrench.


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Chief B said:

Ok... looking at the torque sheet, the bolt that holds the half shaft in needs to be tightened to 57lbs.

My question is how are you doing this?

I first tried with the original bolt that came out of the old one and it snapped so I went and bought a new bolt, but it broke before getting to 57lbs as well. Either I got a bum bolt or I have me a bum torque wrench.


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You have to make sure it's a grade 12.9 metric bolt. If it's a lesser grade then it won't take that much force.


If it's still breaking then I'd get my torque wrench calibrated.

(I know the snap on truck around here has a torque wrench testing tool for use on the truck)

Are you using a lubricant on the threads?

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Thank you all. I think I’ve figured it out, just have to go get new bolts and nord lock washers. I forgot about the nord lock washers since when I removed the old one it only had one regular lock washer on it (thank you Action for that reminder). So it was probably a combination of the wrong bolts (did not have 12.9) and bottoming out since I was not using the nord lock washers.

Since this wheel did not have the nord lock washers though, I will be checking the other wheels too. As far as lubricant, I’m using locktite red as the torque sheet says.


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Bolts are Not 12.9....factory is 10.9...here's part of the spec :
And here is whats in the Parts manual : NSN 5306011857048 . P.N. 11516306 BOLT,MACHINE 10-1.5 X 35 MM......... 12 Ea.

Manual : TM9-2320-280-20-2, pg. 6-22 says: torque 48 ft lbs.
Late manual for ECV, and REV...TM9-2320-387-24-1, pg. 6-19 says 58 ft. lbs.

86humv said:

Bolts are Not 12.9....factory is 10.9...here's part of the spec :

Material Document and Classification

G-500-M(10.9), fscm 11862 mfr ref single material response overall

And here is whats in the Parts manual : NSN 5306011857048 . P.N. 11516306 BOLT,MACHINE 10-1.5 X 35 MM......... 12 Ea.

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86humv said:

Manual : TM9-2320-280-20-2, pg. 6-22 says: torque 48 ft lbs.
Late manual for ECV, and REV...TM9-2320-387-24-1, pg. 6-19 says 58 ft. lbs.

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That torque makes more sense for grade 10.9 than 57 flt lbs does. I just looked up the torque, then checked on the chart what grade it would need to be for that torque spec.
Still, This is one of those situations where I don't think stepping up to a higher grade of bolt is going to cause any issues.