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What did you do to your trailer today.

BlownL36

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Jackson, NJ
My tire has a new tube and the wheel is back on the trailer. My assistant had to work today so I improvised again and got it done by myself*.

* = I used Coug's suggestion about using a lawn mower ramp to assist. Going downhill worked well for me.

Total expenses = $83 for labor and tube at the tire shop. $11 for 100 miles of travel back and forth to tire shop. Approximately 7 hours of my labor, not counting rest breaks - priceless.



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Glad you got it fixed!
 

Jbulach

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Sunman Indiana
My tire has a new tube and the wheel is back on the trailer. My assistant had to work today so I improvised again and got it done by myself*.

* = I used Coug's suggestion about using a lawn mower ramp to assist. Going downhill worked well for me.

Total expenses = $83 for labor and tube at the tire shop. $11 for 100 miles of travel back and forth to tire shop. Approximately 7 hours of my labor, not counting rest breaks - priceless...
Good job, and resourcefulness on getting it back together! Another trick that may help in the future, is a couple of 2-3’ pieces of 3/4” black iron pipe. Lean the tire up against the hub, stick the pipes trough the lug holes and onto the studs, lift slightly on the pipes until the wheel slides on.
 

BlownL36

New member
11
9
3
Location
Jackson, NJ
Good job, and resourcefulness on getting it back together! Another trick that may help in the future, is a couple of 2-3’ pieces of 3/4” black iron pipe. Lean the tire up against the hub, stick the pipes trough the lug holes and onto the studs, lift slightly on the pipes until the wheel slides on.
That’s a great idea!
 

Retired1

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Woodward County, OK
Works in progress -

2-5/16" coupler and MRAP steps. I wanted a primer coupling so I could paint it but it was $30 more. I'm not sure if paint will stick to the black powder coat? The 2-5/16" coupler will give me more options for moving the trailer.

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I can't lift the steps (122 lbs) so I am exploring my options on how I can use them.

Not shown yet: I'm working on new 1/2" grade 80 safety chains. I picked up two connector links while I was in town today.
 

Retired1

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Woodward County, OK
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I put my flags out by my trailer. I think my trailer likes to see the flags for what they represent as much as I do. I painted a 5/8" x 4-3/4" clevis pin that I'll be using with my new safety chains. I painted my new 2-5/16" coupler following M813rc's advice. In 2035 I will revive these posts and we'll see how well this paint job has held up.
 
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BlownL36

New member
11
9
3
Location
Jackson, NJ
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I put my flags out by my trailer. I think my trailer likes to see the flags for what they represent as much as I do. I painted a 5/8" x 4-3/4" clevis pin that I'll be using with my new safety chains. I painted my new 2-5/16" coupler following M813rc's advice. In 2035 I will revive these posts and we'll see how well this paint job has held up.
I like to see them as much as the trailers too!
 

Evil Dr. Porkchop

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Colchester, VT
More progress on the m416. Added the metal brake lines and LED lights and wiring. Still need to install a new rubber brake hose and bleed out the brakes. I’ll have to check the bearings too. I kinda like how the m101a3 jack turned out.
 

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Coug

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Last year I bought a trailer chassis that had been for one of the gen/ECU setups. Didn't have the gen or ECU. It did have a couple small storage boxes and the fuel tank, but I removed those and painted what was left, as well as some clean up of rusting parts and whatnot. I had some wood 2x8s and used it as a utility trailer for a while.

IMG_20190928_174444.jpg


So this last week I finally got my act together and make it a simplified version. Reinstalled the fuel tank and storage boxes.

First I mounted a nordic air 3 ton ECU

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Then mounted a steel frame (2x6" steel channel welded into a rectangle 56" x 32") to support the gen. Used as many existing holes as I could in the trailer frame, only added a couple 3/8" holes on either side (of which there are multiple on the front and back for the other stuff that had been mounted before)
Other reason for the gen frame to be 6" high is so I can open the lower doors on the front of the gen to get to the wiring lugs, otherwise I'd have to unbolt the fender to access them.


Then mounted an MEP-802A.
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Everything bolted down with grade 8 hardware.

Added a plywood bed for behind the gen, I have a tent I am going to try getting up onto it and strapped down in order to give it a little tail weight, as the tongue is pretty heavy right now (probably around 400-500 lbs) That and the BEOD are making it squat a little, but it sure helps soften up the ride (M1123)

The fuel suction port on the fuel tank was cut off flush with the tank, I plan to swing by the hydraulics shop next week on my way out to an event and see if we can't make up some type of fuel line for it, the tank is 55 gallons so I'd easily have 100 hours of run time with it filled up.

Next thing I need to do is replace the trailer tongue jack with something better, using a farm jack to hook/unhook the trailer is getting old really fast.


Oh, and the gen and ECU being the same height was just coincidence.
 

Coug

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Dumb question... what is an ECU?
ECU = Environmental Control Unit.
Fancy name for a combination of a heater and an air conditioner.

Not a dumb question, if you don't deal with these things then there is no reason to know the acronym, and there are so many acronyms these days that it's almost pointless to just do a broad internet search.
 

Coug

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It sure looks nice. Do you work all tha gear (like rent out the gen by the hour or anything)?

Or is that just your personal "ready-to-go" set up?
I've used the generator at one customer's location, but this is all my personal ready to go stuff. Gen is backup for my house, and the ECU was cheap and works as a load bank for running the gen under load (though I had to disconnect some of the heating coils as it's too much draw for this size gen)
Gen runs at 110-115% with 6 of the nine heating coils it has, but runs under 50% as an air conditioner.

Generator actually only has 21 hours on it, housing was smashed up when I bought it last year, but everything else was fully functional, so I got a good deal.

I do also have a TMPR tent (larger frame tent that replaced the GP series) I can use the ECU with if I feel like, but that won't fit on the trailer, so keeping my eyes open for a decently prices small DRASH or Base-X tent to go with this setup.
Bought a Base-X at auction with no model number or size reference or anything, got it home and found the model is 8D-32, (31'x37') that will probably end up on the trailer just for the counterweight.


Also, I repair standby generators and other generators for a living, so it's good advertising.
 

Retired1

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Like m715mike, I had no idea what the ECU referred to nor its purpose mounted on the trailer. After researching it I was able to see photos of it all in use, I now understand that the package provides cool or heated air to a tent through large flexible tubes. The tent then providing relief from the weather.

Very interesting. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
 

Coug

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I see that the rear hatch on the HMMWV clears the ECU. It looks like a close or narrow margin. Planned or serendipity?
just lucky. Not 100% sure it will clear if I am not parked straight. I have about 3-4" clearance with everything straight.
 
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