Driveline question...

Blairg · Sep 22, 2020

So I am about to take my driveshafts in to have them gone through. I have read the plethora of threads regarding the topic but was wondering what is being made mention of in this paper? My truck has the D stamped on the data plate but exactly what did they do when they looked at the trucks? IF I missed a thread please let me know. This paper mentions a brace . Any suggestions of upgrades that I should do while the driveshafts off to improve longevity?

This was a report I hadnt seen before.
https://www.readcube.com/articles/10.21236/ada416038

Third From Texas · Sep 24, 2020

I don't think the brace was ever implemented?

The "D" stamp is as good as it got until the issue was fixed with the A1R trucks (ie: the same rear end assembly as the 5-tons leveled out the propeller shaft angle).

Awesomeness · Sep 24, 2020

Blairg said:
I have read the plethora of threads regarding the topic but was wondering what is being made mention of in this paper?

There's no brace, and all the trucks got the "D" modification. This topic still goes round and round, after all these years.

Read the section in my "Common Issues & Fixes" document here in my signature. It compiles all the useful info on the topic (and others), without having to read through 900 pages of people's arguments and comments. It also gives the title of the paper you cited above, which you could have then googled easily, along with the others.

Have the shafts balanced, cardboard dampener removed/relaced (if present), u-joints replaced, use tab washers on the u-joint bolts (or alternatively Loctite).

coachgeo · Sep 24, 2020

Awesomeness said:
There's no brace, and all the trucks got the "D" modification. This topic still goes round and round, after all these years.
...

all the trucks that had to be "retrofitted" got a D. any truck that left the factory after retrofits done... did not cause they were manufactured with this upgrade as standard OEM fitment items.

Blairg · Sep 25, 2020

Awesomeness said:
There's no brace, and all the trucks got the "D" modification. This topic still goes round and round, after all these years.

Read the section in my "Common Issues & Fixes" document here in my signature. It compiles all the useful info on the topic (and others), without having to read through 900 pages of people's arguments and comments. It also gives the title of the paper you cited above, which you could have then googled easily, along with the others.

Have the shafts balanced, cardboard dampener removed/relaced (if present), u-joints replaced, use tab washers on the u-joint bolts (or alternatively Loctite).

Thanks for that. Somehow missed the one paper that i posted the link to after reading your information earlier. Still after all that reading it really wasn't clear what the "D" actually meant to earlier trucks. Sounds like the only thing that was changed was the increase in size of the slip yoke to what SAE recommended from the first place without the coating.

Yesterday took off both my drive lines and did exactly what you recommended. Took them to be balanced and replaced all the U-joints. Both Drive shafts were out of balance with the front needing the most amount of weight. After it was all said and done everything mic'ed out to about zero running through all the speeds. Replaced the drive shafts and couldn't find my grease gun. So I ran in today and got a new one. One day I will find all the grease guns I have ever bought.

Thanks for the help,
Blair

JoeWash591 · Oct 1, 2020

Blairg said:
Thanks for that. Somehow missed the one paper that i posted the link to after reading your information earlier. Still after all that reading it really wasn't clear what the "D" actually meant to earlier trucks. Sounds like the only thing that was changed was the increase in size of the slip yoke to what SAE recommended from the first place without the coating.

Yesterday took off both my drive lines and did exactly what you recommended. Took them to be balanced and replaced all the U-joints. Both Drive shafts were out of balance with the front needing the most amount of weight. After it was all said and done everything mic'ed out to about zero running through all the speeds. Replaced the drive shafts and couldn't find my grease gun. So I ran in today and got a new one. One day I will find all the grease guns I have ever bought.

Thanks for the help,
Blair

I am doing the same for my 98 LMTV 1078. Removed both rear and front driveshafts. I have a bend in both so I took them to get the bend taken out and rebalanced. I ordered some U-Joints from Amazon. They are World American brand. Has anyone ever used these before? Are these ok or should i go with something well known such as Spicer U-Joints?

Thanks,

Joe

Mullaney · Oct 1, 2020

JoeWash591 said:
I am doing the same for my 98 LMTV 1078. Removed both rear and front driveshafts. I have a bend in both so I took them to get the bend taken out and rebalanced. I ordered some U-Joints from Amazon. They are World American brand. Has anyone ever used these before? Are these ok or should i go with something well known such as Spicer U-Joints?

Thanks,

Joe

Opinions are like other parts of the anatomy, but I would go for the Spicer. They have been making them for a long time and they are OEM equipment on a lot of trucks.

Blairg · Oct 3, 2020

JoeWash591 said:
I am doing the same for my 98 LMTV 1078. Removed both rear and front driveshafts. I have a bend in both so I took them to get the bend taken out and rebalanced. I ordered some U-Joints from Amazon. They are World American brand. Has anyone ever used these before? Are these ok or should i go with something well known such as Spicer U-Joints?

Thanks,

Joe

Personally I would go with a name brand American brand. After going through all the work of getting these drivelines in shape it would be a pisser to have something fail on a crappy ujoint.

Blair

Reworked LMTV · Oct 3, 2020

Blairg said:
Personally I would go with a name brand American brand. After going through all the work of getting these drivelines in shape it would be a pisser to have something fail on a crappy ujoint.

Blair

Shop around. If you watch the auction sites, they pop up on the cheap now and then. Got a few there a couple of month ago.

ramdough · Oct 18, 2020

Blairg said:
Personally I would go with a name brand American brand. After going through all the work of getting these drivelines in shape it would be a pisser to have something fail on a crappy ujoint.

Blair

We’re you not paying attention? He bought World American brand u-joints.

Those must be an American brand.

Reworked LMTV · Oct 18, 2020

Spicer, unless you like roll the dice. I have noticed Chinese machining in things like bearings can be horrible. I won't buy Chinese bearings anymore. Got burned on a finish mower with a set. Went out faster than a politician being chased by reporters. I buy Tinkem exclusively now. They have excellent quality control, even if made overseas.

Awesomeness · Oct 19, 2020

I've had two different Spicer u-joints for this truck - one was made in the USA that was nice but did not come with the tab washers, and one that was made internationally (I think, it was cheaper and had a different part number) but did come with the tab washer. I've also had Neapco joint, and I think those are my favorite, and they also included the tab washers.

Reworked LMTV · Oct 21, 2020

Awesomeness said:
I've had two different Spicer u-joints for this truck - one was made in the USA that was nice but did not come with the tab washers, and one that was made internationally (I think, it was cheaper and had a different part number) but did come with the tab washer. I've also had Neapco joint, and I think those are my favorite, and they also included the tab washers.

Mine came with built loctite on the threads. Probably equivalent.

Awesomeness · Oct 21, 2020

Reworked LMTV said:
Mine came with built loctite on the threads. Probably equivalent.

Under ideal conditions the Loctite is fairly equivalent. On our driveshafts, there are a couple things I like better about the tab washers (lock plates you bend over).

1. They "just work". Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, greasy, wet, etc. Loctite really needs the fasteners to be cleaned and prepped to work its best, and I know most people aren't down there with a bottle of IPA cleaning the threads of each screw.
2. You can visually inspect it and know whether it's still working. You can see if the ears on the tab washers are in place. You can't see if the Loctite got a good bond.

Reworked LMTV · Oct 21, 2020

Awesomeness said:
Under ideal conditions the Loctite is fairly equivalent. On our driveshafts, there are a couple things I like better about the tab washers (lock plates you bend over).

1. They "just work". Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, greasy, wet, etc. Loctite really needs the fasteners to be cleaned and prepped to work its best, and I know most people aren't down there with a bottle of IPA cleaning the threads of each screw.
2. You can visually inspect it and know whether it's still working. You can see if the ears on the tab washers are in place. You can't see if the Loctite got a good bond.

FYI: There is a new loctite that forms well in grease / oil, I believe.

Awesomeness · Oct 21, 2020

Reworked LMTV said:
FYI: There is a new loctite that forms well in grease / oil, I believe.

It's Loctite 243, but it still doesn't set well in the presence of oil/contamination. It just has better oil resistance after it is set.

So I still prefer the tab washers, for the reasons I mentioned above.

Reworked LMTV · Oct 21, 2020

Awesomeness said:
It's Loctite 243, but it still doesn't set well in the presence of oil/contamination. It just has better oil resistance after it is set.

So I still prefer the tab washers, for the reasons I mentioned above.

LOL ok, I "get it". It was just a reference point for others.

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