Newbie Tire Change Help

When my M1152 was finally delivered a few weeks ago, I discovered the right rear tire was bald. I ordered and received an identical tire from fleabay.

What exactly is the procedure for changing the tire? Are there general instructions in a thread on the forum? Where is this found in the TMs? Is it a difficult procedure? Is a tire removal machine needed? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

cg25713 said:

When my M1152 was finally delivered a few weeks ago, I discovered the right rear tire was bald. I ordered and received an identical tire from fleabay.

What exactly is the procedure for changing the tire? Are there general instructions in a thread on the forum? Where is this found in the TMs? Is it a difficult procedure? Is a tire removal machine needed? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

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You want TM 9-2320-280-20-2 chapter 8 "WHEELS AND STEERING MAINTENANCE"

IT CAN BE FOUND HERE:

You will want to download and save to your computer every TM on that page, as it's all the tech and parts manuals. Once you open a manual you can use the "find" function in Acrobat Reader to find pretty much anything in a short amount of time.

It is a pretty straightforward procedure, but you will need something to compress the run flat enough to get it out of the old tire and into the new one. You will also want a spray bottle of soapy water to lubricate things. It also takes a fair amount of muscle.

A tire machine is NOT required, as the two halves of the rim unbolt from each other.

You may or may not require a new O-Ring for the rim, but it is always recommended that you have one on hand in case the old one gets damaged or just refuses to seal when you reassemble. They don't cost a whole lot (comparatively speaking).

You will also need a torque wrench for all of this. There is a specific pattern to go by when tightening everything up. If you don't follow the pattern it is theoretically possible to warp the metal of the rim or for things to not seal. It might not happen immediately, but it's just safer to follow the directions.

papakb said:

I've changed many tires on my HMMWV and most of the time you can jostle them around and get them to seat but sometimes with new tires that have never been expanded onto wheels you'll need either an expanding band (like a rachetting strap) or a Cheetah which is an air tank that blows out compressed air to expand the tire. I've seen videos where they spray ether into the tire and then light it up to seat it but it's a pretty dangerous way to mount tires. All of this is on You Tube for your perusal.

The torque wrench is a must for this job. I tried to do without one and for quite a while I'd have studs snapping off like pistol shots where I'd overtorqued them. Follow the guidelines in the manuals and you'll be OK.

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This sounds like you are doing it without reinstalling the runflats.

For cg25713, if you are reusing/reinstalling the military runflat/beadlock there will be no seating the bead issues, as the bead lock design securely seats the bead of the tire against the rim when properly installed.

I have nothing against running these tires without beadlocks, but since it's a newbie asking questions, I just want to make it clear to them that because of the difference in rim design for these type of tires/rims, it's not as safe to run them at lower pressure compared to a standard/modern tire bead design.

Another part of the proud HumV owners log book.

Read and heed all the safety info. Remove ALL the air by removing the little schrader valve thingie FIRST. O ring and torque wrench by the book as said. Many ways to remove the runflat. See the many U-tube videos. Some funny, some clever.

First time is a wrestling match. Second time more or less the same. Man against a darn rubber ring. (could be a metal one??) Can be a bit messy with the goop grease in there.

Not hard to do if following directions. Check all parts and pieces for cracks, dinged or stripped parts. Replace as needed. Good to have new nuts too. Many ways to balance. My choice is a simple bubble balance.

Keep the runflat as designed IMO. Could be your way home next time.

Taking it to the tire shop ??? They might toss you out the door... wheel and all, CAMO

GOOD LUCK

Thank you all. I'm much more confident now and I may try it tomorrow.

When removing the tires is there a specific lug nut that we can use? I worked on removing one of my tires and it was a fight all the way to get the lug nuts out. I am used to changing tires on other vehicles where the lug nuts can, once loosened, be removed by hand. Is this normal or are the lug nuts or bolts damaged?

Hey all. I still haven't changed the tire I need to. I was hesitant to use my 3 ton floor jack and jack stands. Will they be sufficient? What do some of you all use? Thank you.

trust nothing
Put 6 x6 blocks and whatever else that is better under it, chock all the other wheels, pull the battery cables and have at it. Life is short, assure you get a whole one.
She is 6400 pounds empty? twice as much as a regular Chevy.

I just changed tires over this long weekend. The difference is that the tires I had already came with the run flat inserts. I purchased them mounted, but I decided to take the rims off and send them to get powder coated flat black. One of the things that I did not see here, you need to make sure that you have a new oring when you put it back together. I did a search here for the oring because I did not feel like this oring should warrant more than a few bucks a piece. After research, members here were torn between -383, -457, and -458. I have the 12 lug with the added hole on the wheels. A few months back I had ordered an oring that was either -457 or -458 and it was a tad too big on diameter and thickness. The -383 is a better fit in terms of thickness, but it is a little bit smaller on the diameter. To resolve this, I stretched it on a split rim on the lower side and added sockets at four points. This gave me enough stretch to get it where it is supposed to be. However, you have to mount it all back relatively quick or it will shrink back to it's intended diameter. So far no leaks, it's been holding since last year (yeah I know, pun intended). It has been five days or so. The orings can be purchased at mccarr or hercules seals. I bought them locally from a friend that owns a hydraulic shop and his supplier is hercules seals. They were about $5 a piece.

knighthawkgamer said:

When removing the tires is there a specific lug nut that we can use? I worked on removing one of my tires and it was a fight all the way to get the lug nuts out. I am used to changing tires on other vehicles where the lug nuts can, once loosened, be removed by hand. Is this normal or are the lug nuts or bolts damaged?

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Those are 9/16-18 lug nuts, the VERY first thing I replace on my Humvees, just about every other vehicle in the world does not use locking lug nuts and wheels are not falling off all over the place.

knighthawkgamer said:

When removing the tires is there a specific lug nut that we can use? I worked on removing one of my tires and it was a fight all the way to get the lug nuts out. I am used to changing tires on other vehicles where the lug nuts can, once loosened, be removed by hand. Is this normal or are the lug nuts or bolts damaged?

Click to expand...

When an impact gun is used to install the nuts, it will distort the threads in the nut. Then, they can be very difficult to remove. New OEM nuts will spin on and off easily when you install and torque by hand.

Action said:

When an impact gun is used to install the nuts, it will distort the threads in the nut. Then, they can be very difficult to remove. New OEM nuts will spin on and off easily when you install and torque by hand.

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I have been using air impacts on lug nuts for over 50 years and have NEVER seen the nuts "distort" this includes a couple years at Goodyear and Firestone pulling and installing literally thousands of wheels

Mogman said:

I have been using air impacts on lug nuts for over 50 years and have NEVER seen the nuts "distort" this includes a couple years at Goodyear and Firestone pulling and installing literally thousands of wheels

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I am only talking about the lugnuts on the HMMWV wheels.

Tire change update - need help. After finally getting the run flat into the new tire and fully reassembling the wheel - air is leaking at the alignment hole.

I believe I followed the TM carefully. Prior to installing the run flat into the tire, I liberally applied the run flat grease inside the tire. I used a new red o-ring to which I applied light grease and it fit into the groove on the inside half of the wheel perfectly. I carefully aligned the two halves of the wheel and then tightened the nuts according to the TM etc. When I try to put air into the tire - it leaks out from the alignment hole.

I put the alignment holes on each side of the wheel on top of each other creating a hole between the two halves - is that wrong?

Also I did not use any bead sealer where the tire meets the rim on either side of the wheel. Do I need to? I didn't think so and no air escapes from the outside rim. Only from the alignment hole.

Any input or advice anyone could offer before I take it apart and try again would very much appreciated. Thank you all.

cg25713 said:

Tire change update - need help. After finally getting the run flat into the new tire and fully reassembling the wheel - air is leaking at the alignment hole.

I believe I followed the TM carefully. Prior to installing the run flat into the tire, I liberally applied the run flat grease inside the tire. I used a new red o-ring to which I applied light grease and it fit into the groove on the inside half of the wheel perfectly. I carefully aligned the two halves of the wheel and then tightened the nuts according to the TM etc. When I try to put air into the tire - it leaks out from the alignment hole.

I put the alignment holes on each side of the wheel on top of each other creating a hole between the two halves - is that wrong?

Also I did not use any bead sealer where the tire meets the rim on either side of the wheel. Do I need to? I didn't think so and no air escapes from the outside rim. Only from the alignment hole.

Any input or advice anyone could offer before I take it apart and try again would very much appreciated. Thank you all.

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If you just tighten down one bolt fist, then it may push the oring out. I suggest getting 2 regular nuts to fit the studs. When putting the outer half on, tighten those 2 nuts (on opposite studs) evenly down and pull the 2 halves together flat. That will squish the oring all the way around at the same time, keeping it in the groove. Then snug down all the other nuts. Remove 2 regular nuts andsnug down correct ones. Then do the 2 torque sequences.
the alignment holes do line up. Sometimes air will leak out around a stud if the oring is leaking.

Thanks for the quick reply Action. That is an excellent idea. When I was tightening in the very beginning I kept checking the o-ring alignment all the way around until my finger couldn't fit. It moves easily and likely shifted somewhere. I'll definitely do this on my second try and keep you posted.

Do you think I need to replace the nuts and bolts? Three of the bolts came out of the wheel when I took it apart and I had to hammer them back into the inside half of the wheel.

cg25713 said:

Thanks for the quick reply Action. That is an excellent idea. When I was tightening in the very beginning I kept checking the o-ring alignment all the way around until my finger couldn't fit. It moves easily and likely shifted somewhere. I'll definitely do this on my second try and keep you posted.

Do you think I need to replace the nuts and bolts? Three of the bolts came out of the wheel when I took it apart and I had to hammer them back into the inside half of the wheel.

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If you can torque the nuts down properly, I would leave them in. I replace rusty studs. They are easy to do.

Others speak of first placing "O" ring in freezer to shrink it and stiffen it up. Some speak of rubber cement to hold on one 1 of the rims.