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Can’t get this to start…FIXED!!!

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DaneGer21

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ToddJK said:
I read this entire post. From my experience, air is a big problem in the fuel delivery system. I had a fuel filter that was sucking in air and had a ever so slightly leak due to a tiny little tear in that rubber seal. The truck didn't want to start and when it did it took forever and lots of cranking to get it started. However, even with an air leak, it would still run. When I rebuilt the motor in my old truck due to blown head gasket, I used 3 cans of either to get it started and to keep it running. There was lots of air in the system, even after I bled what I could but I had all the lines apart, injectors pulled, everything.
If you do all this work and the truck still doesn't run, don't call it quits. Maybe look for a mechanic who works on farm equipment, good chance they work on old farm equipment and if they do, they will know how the IP works on the deuce. Get a quote to see if they rebuild the entire IP, how much it'll run you. A new pump is $2k or better now days from what I've seen.
Also, when you seat that delivery valve cover bolt, is that little spring in there putting tension on the valve? Did you tighten that bolt 2-3 times over to make sure it is sealing? Otherwise it'll do what mine did, leak and or suck in air. If that bolt has a hairline crack in the mating surface, it'll leak fuel and suck in air. I know you mentioned loosening it and removing it a few times so that's why I asked.
You mentioned you bypassed the fdc and the flame heater, you sure all the lines that were removed, all the plugs are good and tight and if there is a line that is supposed to be re routed back to the IP isn't plugged thus causing the lack of fuel pressure during start up? I've never done it myself but only watched a few YT videos including Tactical Repair when he explained these two modifications.
Sometimes it's amazing how such a stupid simple issue creates a huge issue yet is an easy fix. I hope you get your truck running. I have to follow your post now to see the outcome. I wish the best of luck to you hope to see a video of the beast running!
Click to expand...
I’ll give all these things another look, I appreciate your suggestions!
 
dmetalmiki

dmetalmiki

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I brainstormed with you...lets say both the hydraulic heads were squirting just fine..
BUT....the ROTATION and exposure to the OUTLET ports is off..."squirts" (or tries to!) against a 'solid steel wall' before (or after) the apropriate hole!. to the correct line to an injector...
Someone Must know? if the rotation and lift should be timed?
Meaning the injector PUMP is incorrectly timed?

After all the injection pump MUST "fire" the quill at a definate time?? ( In sequence..).

My ( own ) logic and understanding come to stop at this point.....
 
dmetalmiki

dmetalmiki

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Muppet speak.

"after all, It's fine the quill bobbing up n' down..n' goin round n, round...BUT does this 'action' match up with the OUTLET lines to the cylinders"...???
 
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DaneGer21

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ToddJK said:
If you do all this work and the truck still doesn't run, don't call it quits. Maybe look for a mechanic who works on farm equipment, good chance they work on old farm equipment and if they do, they will know how the IP works on the deuce. Get a quote to see if they rebuild the entire IP, how much it'll run you. A new pump is $2k or better now days from what I've seen.
Click to expand...
I reached out to a local diesel shop about costs. They actually refered me to a man who is the local guru with these pumps, and he works at an old tractor shop literally 0.5miles away from my house!!!

We talked for a few minutes, I explained what I’ve done. He said it’s likely it needs rebuilt. He quoted a full rebuild, a base minimum of $750, and that’s before any replacement parts(gaskets/seals are included for the minimum price)
 
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DaneGer21

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frank8003 said:
Is it possible that all fuel lines to injectors are plugged?
Bore each is only .0625"
Click to expand...
It could be possible, but why wouldnt fuel be squirting from the HH injector ports before those lines?

I should have all the fuel lines done this evening, Napa guy came through early.
But, I’m still short a fuel filter for the new filter head. I’ll have to pick something up tomorrow
 
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DaneGer21

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Got all the fuel lines done and the filter head assembly mounted on the original bracket. Gently used my heat gun to help persuade the plastic tubing to bend and turn as needed. I just gotta spin on a filter and I’m ready to leak test. Then it’s time to try again…
 

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cattlerepairman

cattlerepairman

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DaneGer21 said:
I reached out to a local diesel shop about costs. They actually refered me to a man who is the local guru with these pumps, and he works at an old tractor shop literally 0.5miles away from my house!!!

We talked for a few minutes, I explained what I’ve done. He said it’s likely it needs rebuilt. He quoted a full rebuild, a base minimum of $750, and that’s before any replacement parts(gaskets/seals are included for the minimum price)
Click to expand...
I would say it is great that you located a shop so close by that a) knows how to rebuild one of these and b) is willing to rebuild one of these. $750 to go through it, while a lot of cash, is really not overpriced for the job. Sure, if they need spare parts, that is extra (but you would have to buy them, even if you did the job yourself). Plus, they can bench test and warranty the pump before you get it back. I would totally leave that door open. Better than dropping 2.5k on a government rebuild, rebuilt 20 years ago, with zero idea who did it and how well.
Not wanting to sound condescending. Your research is really bearing interesting fruit!
 
Floridianson

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Well if the lower end of the IP is working why pay to just have it pulled apart at that price and gaskets changed when the problem could be in the Head. If you checked the fuel control unit assembly for free movement and it is working as it should and going from 7 when off to 4 shut off when running or just in the 7 position to start. As said you can leave the timing cover off when trying to start and be sure it is in the 7 o clock position. As said you can shut it down if it started using your finger and push fuel control unit to 4 o clock. Also do not believe the man is going to recondition the head plunger and bore. Yes there have been just a couple of reports of something happening in the lower end but again as long as the fuel control unit assembly is installed correct and in the 7 o clock position and the head was good and we had some fuel flow through the head the truck should start. Post 37 if that head came off a today running truck then yes. Old used do not know if truck was running head was a waist of money even if the OP said head was ok when removed in my .02.
 
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Floridianson

Floridianson

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fleetmech said:
Old school Stanadynes, in particular, had failure points machined into the pump drive shaft so it would snap if the pump seized and protect the engine gear train. Im not sure if this pump has such a 'safety' but the symptoms are the same either way.

Sure plunger guide. Heard it now called the bread box, butterfly, bowtie, fat bird spin thing. Yea again plunger guide will give up to protect his friends.
Click to expand...
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

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This is getting mind blowing. With everything that has been checked it should start. Someone said the tappet cam being worn but I do not know and it would take a lot to wear it out but it can not be ruled out. I posted in a thread where I measured how much the plunger could move by checking measurement with plunger / spring open and then I collapsed the plunger / spring till the spring was bound. I want to say 3/8'' but I do not remember what I had for dinner last night. Maybe you do need to check how much of a throw you are getting on the plunger with head installed just to rule it out. Also good fuel flow can be seen by removing the return line off the fuel tank. Believe you said you checked the over pressure valve on the secondary housing and it is staying closed.
 
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