Mep80Xa injector pump leak

Here are my thoughts:
In the past we had determined there is a mistake in the TM where is calls the "X" dimension 2.02", that is an error. X should be 2.20", however, experience has shown me that when working on a motor with unknown pump shim requirements, putting 2 black shims under the pump and pushing the fuel inlet all the way against the push rod tube seems to work every time.
In your case when replacing an existing pump I would use the same shims as you have now , push the inlet against the push rod tube and call it a day!
You are correct in that a new pump = new clearances but I've found that the shim thickness really is not that critical to engine performance.

This is why you lost me. This is a very forgiving engine.

Guyfang said:

Here are my thoughts:
In the past we had determined there is a mistake in the TM where is calls the "X" dimension 2.02", that is an error. X should be 2.20", however, experience has shown me that when working on a motor with unknown pump shim requirements, putting 2 black shims under the pump and pushing the fuel inlet all the way against the push rod tube seems to work every time.
In your case when replacing an existing pump I would use the same shims as you have now , push the inlet against the push rod tube and call it a day!
You are correct in that a new pump = new clearances but I've found that the shim thickness really is not that critical to engine performance.

This is why you lost me. This is a very forgiving engine.

Click to expand...

Just from reading the TM it is made to sound that finding the correct shim thickness is imperative

Looks like your hose clamp is keeping the injection pump hold down front fully seating the injection pump while also breaking the seal on the hose clamp and the nipple to the injection pump. Then, diesel is getting into the crank case. Had this happen to me, minus the getting into the crank case part.

You need to use a very low profile hose clamp and make sure it is completely out of the way of the injection pump and hold down fork by sliding it up and tightening it over the hose and nipple after the injection pump is installed and tightened down. Not fun to do!

I hope I am typing this in a way that makes sense.

CallMeColt said:

Looks like your hose clamp is keeping the injection pump hold down front fully seating the injection pump while also breaking the seal on the hose clamp and the nipple to the injection pump. Then, diesel is getting into the crank case. Had this happen to me, minus the getting into the crank case part.

You need to use a very low profile hose clamp and make sure it is completely out of the way of the injection pump and hold down fork by sliding it up and tightening it over the hose and nipple after the injection pump is installed and tightened down. Not fun to do!

I hope I am typing this in a way that makes sense.

Click to expand...

It definitely makes sense and I've noticed the same. I'm using crimp clamps and when I pinch the clamp it causes a portion to become raised.

When I install the IP I turn the hose to move the raised portion out of the way.

Josephml21 said:

It definitely makes sense and I've noticed the same. I'm using crimp clamps and when I pinch the clamp it causes a portion to become raised.

When I install the IP I turn the hose to move the raised portion out of the way.

Click to expand...

Triple check it is still not causing an issue. It;s really the only thing that makes sense from looking at the pictures and reading what you have done besides and issue with the casting o the injection pump or block making it not seat.

Forgive the obvious question here, but you are getting the injection pumps in the rack properly right?

CallMeColt said:

Triple check it is still not causing an issue. It;s really the only thing that makes sense from looking at the pictures and reading what you have done besides and issue with the casting o the injection pump or block making it not seat.

Forgive the obvious question here, but you are getting the injection pumps in the rack properly right?

Click to expand...

I confirmed that it was leaking from the body of the IP. Once I had a bead of weld applied it stopped leaking. Just to be safe I ordered a new one.

When it comes to installing the IP I always only removed one at a time and was sure to move the adjustment pin far left. I've never had to force them in or out and my set has always ran fine.

*update*

So I replaced the IP that had the leak and shimmed them as mentioned in this thread. I also suspected that there was some bad fuel so I kinda threw everything I had at the machine. I replaced the fuel and separator filters, did an oil change and a few upgrades.

She is running strong again!

I don't know if anyone has tackled the issue of the fuel/H20 separator drain hose but I came up with a work around. I sourced everything from Home Depot. If you remove the needle valve from the T those threads will work fine. From there I used some hose and clamps and another needle valve at the end of the hose as a pet cock.

Glad you're going! Nice little mod on the fuel water separator. I just put a cup in there to drain it. Never have gotten any water as it is super dry where I am.