• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Resurrecting an M108

Redpawn

Active member
146
28
28
Location
St.Cloud FL
I just picked up an M108 a few weeks back and I just started the process of pulling it from death's icy grip. It had been sitting in the woods for a very long time so the body is pretty much shot. It has more rust than the Titanic. But as luck would have it I have an M35 that i bought a few years back that has a decent body but a bent frame. The plan as of now is to swap the cab and engine out of the M35 on to the M108 and get it driving again. The engine in the M108 runs good but I just had the injector pump on the engine in the M35 rebuilt so I figure both cabs will be off so why not swap the engine too. Here is what the M108 looks like as of now.

IMG_20190315_090205.jpgIMG_20190315_090146.jpg
 

Evil Dr. Porkchop

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,952
269
83
Location
Colchester, VT
Nice truck! That's interesting that it has been converted to a multifuel already. Seems like a bunch of them have been converted over from the gas engines in recent years.
 

Redpawn

Active member
146
28
28
Location
St.Cloud FL
Thanks. I think the more interesting engine swap was on the other truck I picked up at the same time. It was an M35 with a Detroit 453 turbo.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
5,523
2,026
113
Location
London England
Is that not a rather small engine for a truck that size? (as), the specifications run 3 1/2 litre and
140 H.P.
Looks a great truck to restore, and the work will keep you well occupied for while.
So, well done we will follow your restoration with pictures hopefully as you proceed.
 

Redpawn

Active member
146
28
28
Location
St.Cloud FL
If your talking about the Detroit 453 Turbo it might be small but it packs a punch. It specs out at 175HP, 280 Torque and the multi fuel specs out at 130HP, 330 Torque. It becomes a toss up as to do you want the Torque or the HP. The truck that engine was in got used off road only as far as I know. The guy who I got it from had an air compressor running off the transfer case PTO and a big fuel tank in the bed. He used it to do service work on his equipment on job sites. I'm thinking about sticking it in an M37 when I get done with this.
 

balsa

New member
15
3
3
Location
Seattle
I just picked up an M108 a few weeks back and I just started the process of pulling it from death's icy grip. It had been sitting in the woods for a very long time so the body is pretty much shot. It has more rust than the Titanic. But as luck would have it I have an M35 that i bought a few years back that has a decent body but a bent frame. The plan as of now is to swap the cab and engine out of the M35 on to the M108 and get it driving again. The engine in the M108 runs good but I just had the injector pump on the engine in the M35 rebuilt so I figure both cabs will be off so why not swap the engine too. Here is what the M108 looks like as of now.

View attachment 758275View attachment 758276
Beautiful machine I think. Rust is nothing on steel that thick. I have to do some research but there's a guy on the Seattle Craigslist that's been advertising for dustless cleaning. I think he's rigged up a pressure washer with a sand feed. The photo's he posted are highly convincing that this is the new next way to go in restoration jobs.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,167
3,071
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
The Israelis converted their M35s to 4-53s as I understand it.
This here forum thinks it was the Detroit 6-53: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?119838-Deuce-with-6v92T-Detroit-and-transmission

The 6-53N (which apparently is used in military configuration) has 5.2 litre displacement, is 39 inches long, 40 inches wide, 43 inches high and weighs 1590 lbs. 215 hp but can be turned up to the wrong side of 800. Looks like a good option indeed. The Canadian M35 used the 8.2 litre 4-stroke Detroit "Fuel Pincher" with about 160 hp.
 

Redpawn

Active member
146
28
28
Location
St.Cloud FL
Welcome to the m108 club. I have been working on mine for about 3 years now. Here is the thread. Swapped cabs and multifuel.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?147849-M108-deuce-wrecker-engine-swap
Thanks. I don't think I'm going as far as you did. I'm going for a functional restore. I found my first real fun problem to fix. Both upper torque rods fell out when I was moving it. Like actually FELL out. I managed to get the end pieces out of the axle mounting points and one out of the frame so far. I didn't even remove any part of the truck to do it too. I have a few rods with ok bushings that I'm going to put in for now until I can get new bushings. Has any one ever tried to replace the rubber bushings and rods with Hiem joints? Seems like the bushings on an M108 would forever be having problems due to oil getting on them from the crane.
 

SETOYOTA

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,394
419
83
Location
georgia
My next job is to finish the torque rods . I have done the lower 4 and the upper 2 are next. I’m going to have remove the spring pack to get them out. How did you get the one upper out?
 

Redpawn

Active member
146
28
28
Location
St.Cloud FL
My next job is to finish the torque rods . I have done the lower 4 and the upper 2 are next. I’m going to have remove the spring pack to get them out. How did you get the one upper out?
The short answer is mad skills. The longer answer is I made a special tool to break the nut loose. I used a Napa 1/2 drive 1 7/16 shallow socket and it will just fit between the frame and upper walking beam. I wielded a piece of steel to the socket and put a porta power between the steel and bed rail. After I broke the nut loose I used another unmodified socket to finish taking the nut off using a low profile 3/8 ratchet with an insert to make it work with the 1/2 socket. Then a big bar and lots of hitting with a big hammer. I need to take the rear most nut off still. When I take it off I'll put up some pics. Here is the tool I made.
IMG_20190318_170305.jpg
 

SETOYOTA

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,394
419
83
Location
georgia
The short answer is mad skills. The longer answer is I made a special tool to break the nut loose. I used a Napa 1/2 drive 1 7/16 shallow socket and it will just fit between the frame and upper walking beam. I wielded a piece of steel to the socket and put a porta power between the steel and bed rail. After I broke the nut loose I used another unmodified socket to finish taking the nut off using a low profile 3/8 ratchet with an insert to make it work with the 1/2 socket. Then a big bar and lots of hitting with a big hammer. I need to take the rear most nut off still. When I take it off I'll put up some pics. Here is the tool I made.
View attachment 758604
Did you take the weight off the suspension? Thanks for the pics. Looking forward to more info on the job
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks