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Even when you know what you're doing mistakes still happen! I recently tested an AC reconnect box from an 003 I was selling to a fellow member. figured easiest way was to hook it up to my 003 I use for backup power which is connected to my shop and house. 1/2 way through hooking up the power...

Looks good, but I have to say anything that can gravity drain ( leak ) always scares me for some reason. Hopefully this is somewhere close that you see it daily. Although simply keeping the valve closed when not is use should eliminate 99% chances of failure. Only other thing I'd keep an eye on...

With 6400 hours on it, it looks good, I can still see cross hatch marks in the cylinder wall. Out of curiosity, I personally would pull off a couple rod caps and see what the bearing in the top half of the rod looked like as far as wear. I'd also remove the oil pump pressure relief tube and...

Every time I've ever taken a rack out I removed the whole thing by taking out the pivot pins ( held in by little spring clips ) never had much luck trying to get the dowel pins out by themselves. If you end up in a mess, I've got a couple 803 racks in my parts stash, send me a PM if you end up...

My question is why are you test running your 803 in the house? do it outside! ..... rofl

A load is a load, unless it's an unbalanced load, then it's more of a misleading load... :) causing inaccurate load meter readings. Either way will work as long as you use approximately the same load on both legs and as mentioned above, make sure your wiring is up to par. I personally like to...

Last time I got one it came from Ebay. I think I found it by searching for a White 298 gasket .... not Mep-005, but try both ways Also try Hercules 298 Here's the rear main...

Think I mentioned this a while ago, but FYI on the coolant bottle cap, the black caps off Walmart brand motor oil ( Super Tech ) also fit perfectly on the TQG overflow bottle.

In the way of what?? You may be old, but you still run circles around 99% of us here! :ROFLMAO:

Very strange that it won't come out nor slide down as Guy suggested. Keep at it, the aluminum tube does adjust within the black mounting collar. If oil doesn't help try lightly tapping on the black tube, then try tapping down on the aluminum center tube, careful for the wires. Once you get it...

If you have the rear cover removed you can disconnect the 4 wire plug and jump the float switch to check it. ( note, the pump doesn't run when the tank is near full ) If you jump the float and still don't have power at the aux pump, the float control module mounted to the right of the fuel tank...

You should have 24V when both probes are in the plug. Sounds like you have no ground connection in the plug... time to consult the schematic and see where the ground comes from in that plug.

Above is correct. The wraps through the CVT are different and wire length is different. The thing is, to change the wrap count requires the same amount of work as changing the CVT. PM sent about a replacement 003 AC box.

Yup, sounds like your pump is dead. Especially if it's a Facet cube style pump.... those are notoriously bad!

PM sent.

Gotcha Joe... and Guy! Let me see if I have a good used panel as well as the new NOS panel and I'll PM you with a price either way.

In reality you only need to replace the CT/CVT assy, but to do so requires you to disconnect the power wires that are looped through it, not an easy task, but not impossible either. I have a complete AC box off an 003A, but they are not cheap. I may also have a spare CVT assembly, but need to...

I've used this place several times for belts for everything from band saws, snow blowers, backhoe etc. Some as cheap as $5 each. No good in an emergency or for 1 or 2 belts after shipping cost, but definitely worth checking out is you need several belts for a project a few days later in the...

That is your battery charging fuse and should be 30A not 2A, but that should have nothing to do with your problem. Can you confirm you get the same results with both the dead crank and main S1 switches?

By " both positions" I assume you mean the dead crank switch and the S1 start switch? I's start by confirming your E-stop switch is pulled out, the 7.5A circuit breaker inside next to the F1 alternator charging fuse is pushed in and if those all check out, verify the CR1 diode on the panel in...