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Finally put my 16.00s on. Got one painted and decided I’ve had enough of the sanding so I’m gonna get the rest sandblasted Thursday. It rides and looks way better. Cruises at 60 in 12th gear at about 1700 rpm.

There was a guy on Facebook the other day that blew his transfer case apart in reverse, high, not in 6x6. He said it was wheel hopping but they don’t necessarily have to be in low 6x6.

I would want to know what brand those gauges are. They may be junk.

I have one of my down pipe. After that it’s half flex and half straight pipe then the 90 for the stack. A section of flex pipe somewhere is necessary.

I used my tractor to get my 5 ton cab off/on. I know a deuce cab is smaller but I can’t see it being lifted without some sort of machinery.

I put a turbo on my m923 with 5” exhaust and 6” stack. If I was driving it to work every day I’d put a muffler on it. But for the way I use it, it’s perfect and sounds great. I pulled the muffler off before I had a turbo and put it back on after one drive. That was absolutely obnoxious.

No. One chamber at each rear wheel. You’ll notice they’re larger than the others. That’s because they have a spring in them. You can google “caging air brakes” and learn all you want to.

Ah I read that wrong.

In that link you posted it says the bill was passed. I don’t know much about that stuff but if it was passed why isn’t it done? I couldn’t find anything on google about it.

Well that’s ridiculous. Cops are pretty lenient in my area so I’m just gonna hope for the best. Nashville is like a different world compared to where I am. As far as displaying the plate, I’d prefer to not get stopped so they can check and then have that lead to other questions that might...

Thanks! If it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing. Do you have a link to that info? I thought I studied the rules pretty thoroughly before I got the antique tag and never saw anything about weight...

Finished putting light bars on today. I should be able to see pretty good now.

It doesn’t have air brakes. It just uses an “air pressure booster” as opposed to vacuum or, like your dodge, hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump. If you lose air pressure you still have brakes, but no assist so very weak brakes. If it will move on it’s own, I’d drive it at 5-10 mph...

14 miles? If it moves I'd definitely try to drive it. Or flat tow it behind a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Just go slow but there's no way I'd pay $1000 to move it 14 miles.

A lot of military truck people are wild. They’re wheel bearings. Just like 99% of parts on these trucks, they’re not some top secret military only magic. Any half decent wheel bearing grease will be fine. I think I used carquest brand in mine.

I don’t either. That picture was at the shop I used to work at. I plan to have a shop built in the next year or two. I’ve looked at 30k pound lifts and they’re 15-20. I’d like to be able to pick my 5 ton up. Smaller lifts can be had for a lot less.

It’s 1000 times easier to work standing up than it is rolling around on the ground. And typically you’ll have rolling jacks on a 4 post lift for when you need the tires off the ground. I don’t know of any situation where you’d “need” a lift but you only need to use one once to understand why...

4 post is the way to go.

Well this was a massive amount of work. I’m impressed with the rapco spray paint though. Probably the easiest I’ve ever used. Ignore the wires hanging down. Still need to hook those up.

I guess I should have said more. Yes it’s under the passenger seat. I’m working on putting front and rear light bars on so I figured I’d go ahead and wire up 6 relays/switches to run anything I decide to add later.