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these are reported to be 10 lead heads so not really able to be converted unless you want to start tearing into the stator assembly itself to find where the other 2 leads should be (if I remember correctly, I could be wrong)

Quick search showed the 60k EEECU draws 10.7kw in cooling mode and 12.2kw in heating mode. You would be best off with the MEP-804 series generator at 15kw 3 phase to operate it, or find a DRASH/HDT gen/trailer unit with the 18kw generator...

Basically just a box around the pickup that lets fuel in from the side to trap fuel during uphill/downhill/acceleration/stopping so you don't run out quickly. The below links show images of it. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/a2-fuel-tank-question.154217/...

There is a baffle around the fuel pickup to prevent that from happening. If it does happen, it's likely that the baffle around the pickup has separated from the bottom of the tank.

batteries will help smooth out any fluctuations with the alternator output as loads are applied and dropped from the unit (this shouldn't be an issue on a properly operating set, but figured it should be stated anyway) Personally I don't particularly like putting my hands or tools inside of an...

When I said "max possible weight" I meant the maximum that it might weigh while I have it out on the road, NOT just what the manufacturer says the max is. I kind of jumbled what I intended to say and it sounded better in my head.

In my state you pay for tonnage, or the max possible weight of the vehicle fully loaded, not what it's rated for. Then you also end up having them screw up and register it as 6k lbs empty and 6k lbs max gross weight, and then have to go into an office to increase the amount you pay for the...

The airflow through the cooling stack kind of sucks to begin with, so adding additional restriction isn't a good idea. Add that to the additional heat from your turbo conversion (I'm assuming you still have the earlier cooling stack and haven't done the snout extension?) is probably a really...

Sometimes to remove serpentine belt all you have to do is press down next to the top idler pulleys and slide it right off. Can't confirm on yours with the belt going under both idlers, but on trucks with the Red Dot aircon it works easily.

they aren't necessarily an "upgrade", just a designed for a different amount of weight. With the weight removed, they can be considered a downgrade for what they do to the vehicle ride quality.

It's a huge issue at garage sales that nobody seems to understand this concept.

how does the air filter look? Black smoke is too much fuel for the amount of air it's getting, so first things to check are air filter and intake system. Does your truck have an air intake restriction gauge?

The general consensus for the HMMWV is that in snow and is unstoppable. Literally unable to stop. Don't worry too much about sliding off into the ditch, the HMMWV can usually drive right back out of most ditches and continue on it's way. That's what chains are for anyway

circled portion is the remote power steering reservoir, so the belt listed above should be the correct one. As was mentioned though, the generator isn't installed, and probably other stuff that needs fixed before you can fire it up.

There are 2 possible belts, depending on what serpentine style you have. If yours has the later setup with the remote power steering reservoir and the extra idler between the generator and power steering pump, then it's the one posted above. If it's the older style with power steering reservoir...

I think they are around 500 lbs each. In your case I'd probably run a bridle between 2 of them as the pulling point. You'll need to do something to reduce friction for the tire, like some rollers or something like that, and have a longer ramp to reduce the amount of force needed to drag it in.

https://www.amgeneral.com/what-we-do/platforms-automotive-systems/vehicle-lineup/humvee-saber/?fbclid=IwAR3jeBAUB0PMSsG0cOlU8bF1lW9DrFrYhTaN9rz4zxg8Ngzsl9GfRPvn_OY

I'm just hoping the wheels are interchangeable with the current generation and aren't 16.5"

don't the smaller molecules also leak out faster through the pores in the rubber? I was told the nitrogen molecules are larger (about 3%) Looking at it another way though, if nitrogen molecules are the ones that leak out slowest, all you have to do is wait for the tire to lose a little...