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You know, that skid might pull better at a higher speed. It's pprobably one of those things you have to feel while you are actually behind the wheel (that is, if he is vehicle-aware). If he isn't, for example if he is one of those people that will drive for miles never realizing that one tire...

It's a field expedient. Not damaging the trailer or the road. Better than standing at the side of the road as a victim, with a dumb look on your face. Of course if he had greased his wheel bearings that tree would not have had to die in vain.

Yes, Bridgestome makes some good tires and I have gone through many sets of them on my 4x4 daily driver over 20 years. At this point it does not look like I will be using NDT tires, for all of the reasons cited. Some good options have been suggested so far: General, Interco and the retreads...

Well, the price is sure right. Do you know anything about this new recap process? And these are radials, yes?

Really nice; I like that color a lot.

Thanks for the link. That was a really nice job that was done and the truck looks great. Although I don't understand why you would go through all that work and not drop the tanks, remove the exhaust and so on. You can't sandblast, prep or paint behind those components. For a motor pool...

In my experience the drive shaft shops are extremely price-competitive making it more difficult to justify doing it yourself. It can be done at home, I've even done it myself, but it is so much easier and quicker and not really expensive to have a drive shaft shop do it.

It seems that the paint products used on MVs can be applied over whatever is on there already. Just prime and shoot - no sealers or whatever. Is that right? Can the MV paints generally be applied over anything (enamel, lacquer, two-part, etc.)?

That link was really informative; thanks.

Everything is gorgeous. What color paint did you use on the M37 engine?

Well, they seem to look pretty good, at least in photos, and I guess with dull paint that touch-ups are a breeze.

I have a question as to how you all prep a large MV prior to paint. I've seen plenty of SS threads where, for example, someone is bobbing a deuce with peeling paint on a rusty frame, then cutting and welding, and then poof! it's tomorrow and the deuce is painted, including the frame and running...

It would be nice to have a Forum reference picture album one a front and rear 3/4 view of each model MV.

Or, back half it? <kidding> Thanks for not taking my comments personally. I understand your points, and since you have it right there in front of you, you are in a far better position to decide what it needs. If it were my bobber (not too far in the future, hopefully), in a case like this I...

It would be hard to not call that setup best practice. Really nice. And crimping and soldering - that's the right way to do it. Followed up with shrink wrap and/or self-vulcanizing tape.

I'll check them out; had not heard of them.

That's a really interesting suggestion. I like the way they look. But I have always been a'scared of a retread - horror stories of tread separation abound. Would you hesitate to run them cross-country (planning a trip out west next year)?

Is it possible that the welds could hold but the u-bolts or lifting blocks fail? Or a section of axle tube tear out? Even under articulation there is probably significant sideways force. In a slide where you then hit something hard, could the whole thing buckle? I wonder if crosswise links...

I'm curious, is there any need for concern about the rear blocks parallelograming sideways?

90 YJ (square headlight) . Bought it for $175 last spring and it is rust free. It's a decent DD.