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I'm with Kenny on this one, silicone spray is the way to go. The spray is also nice to make reconnecting Packard connectors easier, they come apart easier too.
That is a pretty fair leak. Is the valve at the emergency gladhand in the off position? With that being at the rear of the truck, you may not be able to hear it as well as other leaks. If that isn't it, get out the soap like Peashooter suggests and find the leak.
The braking system is designed to give the front brakes more authority than the rear. The increased pressure and heat causes them to wear out faster. Google "proportioning valve".
Disconnect the slave outlet negative from the battery and attach to one of the mounting bolts of the slave outlet or some other convenient chassis ground point. Now you can break your battery negative going to the chassis in a disconnect switch and not have any power problems.
Photo #1-Black cord-Connection to my shop building, back to back with shop electrical panel. Yellow cord-120 Volt for Battery Maintainer.
Photo #2-SO cord, 6/4 AWG with connectors, cord fits distribution box and shop inlet receptacle.
Photo #3-Distribution Box, for remote applications...
A switch rated at 20 amps would be more than sufficient. If you plan on running a lot of accessories, I would use the master switch to energize a relay, and let the relay contacts handle the load. In reference to your screen name, will this be used for some sort of rural fire service?
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