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Hmm...maybe something is wrong...maybe a shim washer to large in OD or a bearing shield/seal left in place blocking oil flow...? Mine pumped lots of oil quickly, and when I shut the engine off, it took a bit for it to drain down. I believe that when it's running, the top is basically full, or...

I replaced my center third member with the bed off. I ran the new one with the top cover off in the shop with the wheels up and the rear axle disconnected to test. Vid in link below is 2nd gear idle. Any higher gear, and a lot of oil went everywhere in a hurry...

Just regular off the shelf red oxide rattle can I have a case of Rapco 24052 rattle cans on the way

So much for quick n dirty brake job. I'm a tightwad glutton for punishment. Won't spend money I don't have to. Drilled and tapped out all the ports (cleaning out crud) in the wheel cylinders, bleeders, and banjo bolts. Hopefully put it all together Saturday.

Any idea what size or grade they are, or what the originals are? Is the reduced shank necessary? Thanks!

Thanks, I meant things done...I'm in the middle of rebuilding the whole brake system, doing wheel bearings, etc. Haven't even started installing the cab, bed, and all the other parts I already got from you guys. Wish I had grabbed those A1 mirror stems though.

I started it again tonight and could not detect any sort of knock. Smoked up the shop :-D

Started tearing stuff apart and trying to decide where to stop...never stopped. It's all, all the way apart. Gonna order some Rapco 24052. For the interior parts, what should I use for the red oxide? What's on there seems to have a little bit of gloss, which I think would have some more rust...

Somebody come give me a hand, my deuce only needs a few more little things...

I'm familiar with the process because we often do the bore/weld/rebore when it doesn't hold up. ;-) This one isn't too loose, so it would probably work, but I have hubs laying around from bent axles, so I'll just use one of them. I edited my pics post above about rust, etc... Looks like I...

Let's try this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeUYPqnTqz8

Well, since I probably need to pull the front diff anyway, I guess I might as well plan on pulling the pan.aua

I haven't gotten to the injectors yet. Why would they knock til the oil pressure came up? Yes, rotational pinion slop. Lemme see if I can find video...

Something else that makes me nervous that I noticed tonight...I started it up since it hasn't run in a couple weeks I guess and noticed that until the oil pressure comes up, I can hear what might be a slight knocking...barely. Normal?

I was stupid and thought I could rob some parts from the other end of the bent rear axle. Should have known it would be too rusted up. Gotta pull another off the front tomorrow. I gotta clean the hubs and pull the drums and drill and tap for jacking bolts and it should be much easier next time...

Fire, brimstone, violence, and....cornflakes. Pretty much a waste of time. EDIT for explanation: had to weld nuts on the ends of those bolts because the heads were rusted off from sitting in the alkali (salt) dirt for ~30 years. We're in a dry desert in the Imperial Valley here, but it all used...

I follow ya. That's kinda what I was thinking, just put good modern auto paint on it. There's this stuff now, but I don't think I'll use it. (Caution, and pardon the pinup girl on the website) https://www.ratwax.net/

Talked to another Ag customer Friday that said the deuces they used to use went through axleshafts a lot. I think the reason recreational users don't break them as much is because we don't use them as hard (over)loaded.

Hats off to you, I hope to never do this again, or at least not for a long time. I'll soak the felts and coat everything else with Never Seez. Have one outer bearing race loose in the bore, gotta salvage another hub from one of the bent axles. `