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  1. The FLU farm

    leaky cylinders

    Can't help you with that, James, but do keep the basics in mind; leave a bit extra to accommodate movement at any bends, and don't forget to take into account how much shorter the hoses get when under pressure. The latter almost came back and bit me when I ran the hoses for the snow blower from...
  2. The FLU farm

    leaky cylinders

    Somewhere in the main thread is the story about my reluctant bucket pin, and how I finally got it out. That included using 50/50 ATF and acetone, which puts all other penetrating oils to shame. Hitting pins harder can really backfire, as they tend to mushroom.
  3. The FLU farm

    leaky cylinders

    Not sure if it really matters. There must be some 10W left in my SEEs, and they still work. But since you're already running AW-32, I'd use that for the flush, too.
  4. The FLU farm

    leaky cylinders

    After the first time I drained the rear tank, I saw the value of those "over priced" malleable plastic funnels. Anyway, I'd put the cheapest possible fluid in there, run everything for a bit, then drain it out (cylinders retracted) and refill with a good AW-32.
  5. The FLU farm

    leaky cylinders

    I'd pull the drain plug on the tank.
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